sloppy tilt mech?
sloppy tilt mech?
Over the last couple of days my 90 le250 4x4 has developed a very un nerving problem. The tilt part of the steering column is becoming very loose, today it is so bad that I have to support the steering wheel in just the right spot to get the ignition switch to turn. I am wondering if I am heading for a catastrophic steering failure and what do I need to do to fix this. Kinda scary to drive the old girls like this and she is my dd.
Although it's not physically hard, it is technical. You will need a few special tools to repair this.
Steering wheel puller
lock plate removal press
tilt pivot pin puller
torx bits
reverse torx bits
The part that loosens up is very deep in the column. You need to gain access to the bolts by:
Remove steering wheel
Remove lock plate
Unplug turn signal switch under dash
Remove turn signal lever
Remove the hazard lever
Pull the t/s switch up about 6 inches
Pull the white plastic switch from the square hole just below the lane of the lock cylinder.
Insert the key in the lock cylinder.
Just to the right of the bearing, in line with the lock cylinder, there is a vertical slot. Press the retainer in this slot with a screwdriver, and turn the lock cylinder to the unlock position at the same time. The lock cylinder will pop out.
Set the tilt in it's upmost position.
Unscrew and remove the tilt lever.
Remove the four big torx screws in the housing.
Pull the upper column housing up over the steering shaft.
Screw the tilt lever back in to the mechanism.(you will need this shortly)
With a phillips screwdriver, press heavily on the tilt assist spring retainer,(silver circle with square hole) and turn counter clockwise to remove.
At the 3:00 and the 9:00 positions of the structure thats left, on the outer sides, there will be flush mounted pins with small threaded holes in them. The holes are there to help pull them out.
Once the pins are out, pull the tilt lever and wiggle the upper structure upwards to remove.
At this point, you will see four reverse torx bolts just below the tilt joint in the center.
Remove the screws one at a time and re-install with loctite.
Here's the tricky part... You need to reassemble it now. The worst part is installing the "rack" correctly. The rack is the silver thing with gear teeth on it. The loop part MUST engauge the pin on the link rod to the ignition switch.
It is difficult to see and pretty much must be done by feel. If this is done correctly, just reverse the above instructions to reassemble.
I do these on the side for $50. I'm in Milwaukee if you dont want to do it yourself.
Steering wheel puller
lock plate removal press
tilt pivot pin puller
torx bits
reverse torx bits
The part that loosens up is very deep in the column. You need to gain access to the bolts by:
Remove steering wheel
Remove lock plate
Unplug turn signal switch under dash
Remove turn signal lever
Remove the hazard lever
Pull the t/s switch up about 6 inches
Pull the white plastic switch from the square hole just below the lane of the lock cylinder.
Insert the key in the lock cylinder.
Just to the right of the bearing, in line with the lock cylinder, there is a vertical slot. Press the retainer in this slot with a screwdriver, and turn the lock cylinder to the unlock position at the same time. The lock cylinder will pop out.
Set the tilt in it's upmost position.
Unscrew and remove the tilt lever.
Remove the four big torx screws in the housing.
Pull the upper column housing up over the steering shaft.
Screw the tilt lever back in to the mechanism.(you will need this shortly)
With a phillips screwdriver, press heavily on the tilt assist spring retainer,(silver circle with square hole) and turn counter clockwise to remove.
At the 3:00 and the 9:00 positions of the structure thats left, on the outer sides, there will be flush mounted pins with small threaded holes in them. The holes are there to help pull them out.
Once the pins are out, pull the tilt lever and wiggle the upper structure upwards to remove.
At this point, you will see four reverse torx bolts just below the tilt joint in the center.
Remove the screws one at a time and re-install with loctite.
Here's the tricky part... You need to reassemble it now. The worst part is installing the "rack" correctly. The rack is the silver thing with gear teeth on it. The loop part MUST engauge the pin on the link rod to the ignition switch.
It is difficult to see and pretty much must be done by feel. If this is done correctly, just reverse the above instructions to reassemble.
I do these on the side for $50. I'm in Milwaukee if you dont want to do it yourself.
Turns out that was not it, they were a bit loose but not bad. She is now sitting at my BIL's shop and they are going to pull the column to try and find the problem. They suspect something is broke. The cost of my $10,000 free truck goes up yet again
I've done close to 100 of these on all types of cars and trucks with saginaw columns. I've only had one that the support tube was broken. I welded it and it was good for about a year. The guy had a pie wagon and he was big. He used the steering wheel as a handle to climb up and into the seat. Nothing lasts forever...
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I like the older style of column better. I did find something interesting today, though. I climbed into the Steiger we got at work to have a closer look in it. The steering column in it appears to be out of a Dodge truck. It makes sense though, seeing how they sourced their engines and transmissions from heavy trucks.
Actually, the tilt column design is GM derived, a kickback from the early '70s on.
All of the Dodge tilt columns used the screwed up GM style switch assembly that is mounted on the top of the column jacket, with a linkage rod run from the tumbler assembly.
And, as you well know, they are absolutely FABULOUS for loosening up!
Mark.
All of the Dodge tilt columns used the screwed up GM style switch assembly that is mounted on the top of the column jacket, with a linkage rod run from the tumbler assembly.
And, as you well know, they are absolutely FABULOUS for loosening up!

Mark.
Trendz hit it on the nose, broken support tube, unable to find replacement so it got welded, hope mine lasts more that a year. No more pulling myself in with the wheel. Running start and dive?
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