SkyJacker 4" front springs
04-04-2017, 09:58 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
YUP.... correct-a-mundo, Chachi....
When you get new springs, they have a nice arch to them.
Drive them for a while with that big lump over the top of them, and they tend to "flatten out".
When you squash a banana into a straight line because you're an angry monkey that wants to tick off another monkey, you're making the banana longer by flattening it out, which is the reason why it started hitting your frame. In order to create springs that have a 4" lift, they have to have a longer "top" or "Main" spring (the one with the eyelets on it), otherwise the rear shackle would be too far away from the eyelet on the lifted spring (or it would ride too far forwards, vs vertical, or slightly pitched rearwards.)
A stock spring will be physically shorter in length than a lifted spring. If you notice it happening again, the springs you put in are beginning to de arch. Might be a good idea to pull them and have them rearched, adding another leaf just below the main. More stability, and better arch retention...
And a stiffer ride, at least for a while.
When you get new springs, they have a nice arch to them.
Drive them for a while with that big lump over the top of them, and they tend to "flatten out".
When you squash a banana into a straight line because you're an angry monkey that wants to tick off another monkey, you're making the banana longer by flattening it out, which is the reason why it started hitting your frame. In order to create springs that have a 4" lift, they have to have a longer "top" or "Main" spring (the one with the eyelets on it), otherwise the rear shackle would be too far away from the eyelet on the lifted spring (or it would ride too far forwards, vs vertical, or slightly pitched rearwards.)
A stock spring will be physically shorter in length than a lifted spring. If you notice it happening again, the springs you put in are beginning to de arch. Might be a good idea to pull them and have them rearched, adding another leaf just below the main. More stability, and better arch retention...
And a stiffer ride, at least for a while.
Thank you! That makes sense even to this hillbilly! I think it was he picture that clarified it!!
Really though thank you for taking the time to post that explanation.
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mknittle (04-04-2017)
04-04-2017, 10:08 AM
#32
Registered User
YUP.... correct-a-mundo, Chachi....
When you get new springs, they have a nice arch to them.
Drive them for a while with that big lump over the top of them, and they tend to "flatten out".
When you squash a banana into a straight line because you're an angry monkey that wants to tick off another monkey, you're making the banana longer by flattening it out, which is the reason why it started hitting your frame. In order to create springs that have a 4" lift, they have to have a longer "top" or "Main" spring (the one with the eyelets on it), otherwise the rear shackle would be too far away from the eyelet on the lifted spring (or it would ride too far forwards, vs vertical, or slightly pitched rearwards.)
A stock spring will be physically shorter in length than a lifted spring. If you notice it happening again, the springs you put in are beginning to de arch. Might be a good idea to pull them and have them rearched, adding another leaf just below the main. More stability, and better arch retention...
And a stiffer ride, at least for a while.
When you get new springs, they have a nice arch to them.
Drive them for a while with that big lump over the top of them, and they tend to "flatten out".
When you squash a banana into a straight line because you're an angry monkey that wants to tick off another monkey, you're making the banana longer by flattening it out, which is the reason why it started hitting your frame. In order to create springs that have a 4" lift, they have to have a longer "top" or "Main" spring (the one with the eyelets on it), otherwise the rear shackle would be too far away from the eyelet on the lifted spring (or it would ride too far forwards, vs vertical, or slightly pitched rearwards.)
A stock spring will be physically shorter in length than a lifted spring. If you notice it happening again, the springs you put in are beginning to de arch. Might be a good idea to pull them and have them rearched, adding another leaf just below the main. More stability, and better arch retention...
And a stiffer ride, at least for a while.
04-04-2017, 03:06 PM
#33
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BTW,
I learned this the hard way.
I pulled my springs, took them to the local spring shop (45 minutes away), and they did a great job fulfilling my 3" lift needs, larger main leaf (thicker than the stocker), and the wrap around military protector leaf (next leaf down wraps around the main in front). Beautiful work....
So, I put them in, and after about a week or so of driving around, I noticed the same clunk you're hearing in your truck. Yup.. The main spring was hitting the frame in the same place, and I drove the truck back to the spring shop. They said, weight of the truck, our guy made the new spring a tad too long (they custom make each main leaf there), and it all had to come back out.
Pulled the springs out (by this time it took me about 45 minutes or so to do), drove them back down and picked them up the following day. Perfect... and this time they didn't hit, even after driving around for a while.
Oh well. Live and learn something new, and share it with your buddies....
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04-04-2017, 03:08 PM
#34
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mknittle (04-04-2017)
04-07-2017, 09:50 PM
#35
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Thread Starter
So yesterday I found my shackles, they are about 1.5" longer than the factory shackles. And with me being me, I thought why not let's try them. Worst case scenario I make/or buy shorter ones.
Tonight I was able to get off work a little early so I figured I would install them and see what happens. Obviously longer shackles, equals more lift.. blah blah blah. Y'all know that already...
I think it equates to about 6" total lift shackles and springs. I also think driveline angle is not too bad, but am unsure on that. I will drive it a few days to see how it settles and go from there. One thing is for certain though, I need another leaf or two in the back to get the correct rake back. I'm not into the whole "lean" thing.
Tonight I was able to get off work a little early so I figured I would install them and see what happens. Obviously longer shackles, equals more lift.. blah blah blah. Y'all know that already...
I think it equates to about 6" total lift shackles and springs. I also think driveline angle is not too bad, but am unsure on that. I will drive it a few days to see how it settles and go from there. One thing is for certain though, I need another leaf or two in the back to get the correct rake back. I'm not into the whole "lean" thing.
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NJTman (04-08-2017)
04-08-2017, 07:01 AM
#36
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Thread Starter
Drove to work this morning only about 7 miles, but I do hit 65mph. Steering felt good, just a little loose but I think that is because of the play I found in front bearings last night. Will address that today. I have a pretty violent gravel road I travel for about a mile. What a difference, I could actually drive more than 10 mph on it this morning without being thrown all over the cab. I guess the springs and shocks are actually doing their job of damping the road shock now. Any way I'm happy with it.
My only concern is the driveline, all the splines are still covered by the slip on level ground. I'm not sure if that's enough not to fall out under flex, or if the angle is acceptable.
My only concern is the driveline, all the splines are still covered by the slip on level ground. I'm not sure if that's enough not to fall out under flex, or if the angle is acceptable.
04-08-2017, 08:44 AM
#37
Registered User
As a general rule you will normally get half the length of the increased amount of the shackle. Due to spring deflection.
04-08-2017, 08:52 AM
#38
Registered User
I agree Mark. Since you are only lifting one end on the leaf spring and the axle is connected in the middle, you end up with only half the amount of the added length of the longer shackle.
04-08-2017, 11:37 AM
#39
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Thread Starter
I think it will settle down to maybe 1 inch of additional lift after a few days. It might just be the difference between shop lighting and daylight but it appears to have settled some already. I'm a dummy I should have measured it before I swapped them.
04-12-2017, 09:44 PM
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thought I would update: After driving it this week, it appears to not want to settle any more after the intitial half inch or so. Only time will tell if it wants to get saggy again.
I do have a question concerning rear add a leaf, don't really want to start another thread for it.
Has any one doubled them up? Or is it even an idea worth considering? The way it sets I need probably two inches to level it, but would prefer a slight nose down rake, so it sets more level instead of nose high when I hook a trailer? I could do a taller block because the current one is only two inch, but would rather have additional leafs to lift, to get the extra capacity.
Any thoughts on this? Thanks folks!
I do have a question concerning rear add a leaf, don't really want to start another thread for it.
Has any one doubled them up? Or is it even an idea worth considering? The way it sets I need probably two inches to level it, but would prefer a slight nose down rake, so it sets more level instead of nose high when I hook a trailer? I could do a taller block because the current one is only two inch, but would rather have additional leafs to lift, to get the extra capacity.
Any thoughts on this? Thanks folks!
04-13-2017, 07:13 AM
#41
Registered User
I have never used them but I heard they make the truck ride rough.
I was going to do the shackle flip and lower the front spring hanger on mine and 52" Chevy springs in front but now that I am moving to Oklahoma I probably won't get around to it.
I was going to do the shackle flip and lower the front spring hanger on mine and 52" Chevy springs in front but now that I am moving to Oklahoma I probably won't get around to it.
04-13-2017, 07:22 AM
#42
Registered User
I added two W-250n rear leaf springs to my Ramcharger rear spring pack to gain height and a more stiffer ride. of the top of my head I think I gained 1 3/4 inches doing that..
I added the 1st spring down from the main spring and the 4th spring down from the main.
I then could re-bend and re-use my spring pack clamps. I am looking into ordering a few new spring clamps though. You will also need a new center pin and u-bolts of course.
I added the 1st spring down from the main spring and the 4th spring down from the main.
I then could re-bend and re-use my spring pack clamps. I am looking into ordering a few new spring clamps though. You will also need a new center pin and u-bolts of course.
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04-13-2017, 07:32 AM
#43
Registered User
I added two W-250n rear leaf springs to my Ramcharger rear spring pack to gain height and a more stiffer ride. of the top of my head I think I gained 1 3/4 inches doing that..
I added the 1st spring down from the main spring and the 4th spring down from the main.
I then could re-bend and re-use my spring pack clamps. I am looking into ordering a few new spring clamps though. You will also need a new center pin and u-bolts of course.
I added the 1st spring down from the main spring and the 4th spring down from the main.
I then could re-bend and re-use my spring pack clamps. I am looking into ordering a few new spring clamps though. You will also need a new center pin and u-bolts of course.
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Hillbilly66 (04-13-2017)
04-13-2017, 07:37 AM
#44
Registered User
Many years ago one of the guys at Sacramento spring told me that if you want to add leaves and have less effect on the ride to add long ones.