Shifts up way to early???
is it variable? and load specific?
A gasoline motor had more vacuum when you stick more of a load on the motor and at full throttle positions.
The diesel vacuum pump should either be static or increase with rpm.
I do not know how they work so cannot be much help with solving the problem... just give different ideas lol
A gasoline motor had more vacuum when you stick more of a load on the motor and at full throttle positions.
The diesel vacuum pump should either be static or increase with rpm.
I do not know how they work so cannot be much help with solving the problem... just give different ideas lol

Our vacuum pump pulls to about -25PSI. A stomp on the brake pedal will bring it down 10 PSI at a time but hold it constant with your foot held on the brake. So yah I guess that explains why if you pump the brake pedal a few times at idle you loost brake boost! (the '72 had a vacuum gauge already installed so I hooked it up out of curiosity.
I think when i sled pull it might just finish this thing off... I'm hopin it does but I'm hopin it doesn't. Then it would make me put a 47rh in it, but yet i don't quite have the money and don't wanna be truckless.
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You might try finding a longer kickdown arm that clamps to the throttle shaft sticking out of the valvebody through the case, or lenghten yours, this would give the linkage more travel before bottoming. I'm with Ken, why was vacuum even brought up? I don't know if the case has enough meat to drill holes and then use pipe plug so you could adjust line pressure and the kickdown valve set screw. guess you could always tig a boss on.
I think Just ramit 91 was thinking that Vacuum could be used with a diaphram (similar to Cruise Control) to mechanically push and/or pull the Kick Down Cable. His question was how could it be regulated etc. to be used in this manner.
Yes, i'm looking for a better way to regulate the shifting of our transmissions. Seems like they are speed governed with a kick down cable keeping it in a lower gear.
Does anybody know about the governor weights in the trans. Maybe something out of a gas version would help because of the higher rpm shift points. This should let the trans shift more around 3k instead of 2000rpm.
Again any other ideas on how to makes a 727 shift better is welcomed
Does anybody know about the governor weights in the trans. Maybe something out of a gas version would help because of the higher rpm shift points. This should let the trans shift more around 3k instead of 2000rpm.
Again any other ideas on how to makes a 727 shift better is welcomed
Here's what has worked well on my truck for two years.
I never had to mess with any of the settings inside the trans.
These transmissions must have proper linkage travel to shift right & not burn themselves up.
They use the TV cable to regulate throttle pressure and line pressure!!
Install the throttle ball in the inner hole on the injector pump arm.
Back out the high Idle screw half way.
Shim or bend the pedal inside so the throttle reaches full travel when floored.
This gives proper linkage travel to match the trans linkage.
Now: have a friend hold the pedal to the floor while you set the TV cable to full travel.
Both the throttle & TV should reach full travel at the same time.
This is how the old gassers were set up.
This will give proper travel to the linkage with the 3200 spring for properly synced shifting.
The trans will shift smooth & slow just off idle & will actually shift at around 2800 - 3000 wide open if i remember right. (I haven't driven the truck in a while)
Also, my gasser TPS mod works well with this setup since the gasser TPS has more travel than the Cummins one & does not readjust itself every time you floor the throttle.
I have found the truck will actually drop out of overdrive when floored in the 60 mph range set up this way.
I never had to mess with any of the settings inside the trans.
These transmissions must have proper linkage travel to shift right & not burn themselves up.
They use the TV cable to regulate throttle pressure and line pressure!!
Install the throttle ball in the inner hole on the injector pump arm.
Back out the high Idle screw half way.
Shim or bend the pedal inside so the throttle reaches full travel when floored.
This gives proper linkage travel to match the trans linkage.
Now: have a friend hold the pedal to the floor while you set the TV cable to full travel.
Both the throttle & TV should reach full travel at the same time.
This is how the old gassers were set up.
This will give proper travel to the linkage with the 3200 spring for properly synced shifting.
The trans will shift smooth & slow just off idle & will actually shift at around 2800 - 3000 wide open if i remember right. (I haven't driven the truck in a while)
Also, my gasser TPS mod works well with this setup since the gasser TPS has more travel than the Cummins one & does not readjust itself every time you floor the throttle.
I have found the truck will actually drop out of overdrive when floored in the 60 mph range set up this way.
Rampage sounds like you were the most sucessful at getting the auto tuned with the 3200 spring and the ball-on-inner-slot mod. Maybe some transmissions react differently to the KDC settings, but I know I barely got to 3/4 throttle before the KDC would bottom out when I set it to the proper shift settings on the '89. Additionally, of course full WOT romps will shift correctly but it is the around town stop and go at idle - half throttle where most of these mis-shifts are occurring.
I will play around with my tv cable and fuel cable to make sure they are set properly(rampage method).
Then i'll let you guys know if and how it works for me.
I also have limited travel with the tv cable and found that the wire shild came loose so i gluid it back in place and that stopped some problems i was having before with binding.
Then i'll let you guys know if and how it works for me.
I also have limited travel with the tv cable and found that the wire shild came loose so i gluid it back in place and that stopped some problems i was having before with binding.



