Once again some Newbie questions. Most of you probably take these for granted, but I don't want to make a mistake, or a simple error , and have problems.

I'm going to service my motor and need to know if there is anything I need to do different from servicing a gas pot.

When I comes to the oil and diesel filters can I just put them on dry and empty? Or do i need to fill them with oil and diesel? I have read about getting air in the fuel lines, so how do you get by this with new fuel filter? And since the turbo gets it oil from the oil pump will a few seconds of no oil cause any problems?


I searched through the archives but couldn't find the answers I need. I know a Factory Service Manual would help but I don't have one...yet.

 

It wouldn't hurt to fill your oil filter. It goes on straight up and down anyway. It may make it easier on the fuel filter, but I am not sure if you have to tip it sideways to get it in there. I always install mine dry, open the bleeder above it, and pump the manual lever on the lift pump until I have a steady stream of fuel. You may also have to crack an injector line if it doesn't start after that.

 

Fill the fuel filter up 1 time with diesel and screw it on. Open the bleeder screw right above the fuel filter housing on the side of the engine (you'll see a bolt head with a bleeder in the middle)

While the bleeder is open, pump the lever on the fuel lift pump and wait for a stream of fuel to come out. Then crank it (may take more cranking than usual) and when it starts KEEP IT RUNNING! .

Oil filter is like oil filter in anything else, fill it once. Screw it on. Turbo will be fine...

 

I put some oil in the filter, about 3/4 or so. Any more and you'll spill it lining it up.

Same with the fuel filter, pump your primer button to purge the air out.

 

put fluid in both... there not a good reason not to... the fuel filter is a big deal because if you dont, you will not get your truck to start without cracking injectors... im also a big time believer in filling the oil filter when youre changing it.

 

Oil filters should ALWAYS go on wet! And be sure to fill it up via the little holes on the sides, not the big one in the middle. The smaller holes are the 'intake' side, and so will ensure the oil is filtered before it goes out to the main passages/galleries.
Same thing with diesel filters. It's also a good idea to kind of pre-filter the diesel before you put it in the filter. If you can, take a paint filter or even a t-shirt or rag and pour some diesel through it to a small and clean container, (smaller is easier to handle! ) and then on in to the filter.
You will probably get a small amount of air in the fuel line. No worries, just crack a fuel line where it joins an injector, and turn the engine over until you see fuel spurt out. Tighten it back up and you're good to go!
No oil to the turbo is bad. But there should always be oil on the shaft, unless you pull the turbo apart and clean it all up. Then, you should always pre-lube it before you start it up. The recomended method is to put you finger over the drain hose fitting, drip some oil down the feed line opening and spin the shaft with your free third hand! That's about all it takes, it just needs a bit to help through start up 'til the main flood comes down the line.
Oh, DO NOT get FRAM filters from WalMart, (or anywhere else for that matter!) if you want good filtration. Get NAPA/Wix or Amsoil or some other known brand. Those Fram filters are . I know a guy who used to work for Ryder, who used to use them on all their trucks, until a bunch of them started having excessive bearing wear and other lube-related problems. Best to not go there...

Hope this helps Thrashingcows!

 

Sweet..Thanks for the quick replies guys. Sets my mind at ease knowing the proper procedures.

I use Purolator air/oil/fuel filters. I read a comparison test years ago and the Purolater brand was one of the best, fram was the worst!! Not sure if purolator brand is just renamed for Canadian consumption?

 

I always pre-fill the fuel-filters to the brim and never mess with any bleeder-screws.

The engine never even knows I've messed with it.

Same for the oil-filter.

 

Cummins recommends fleetguard filters, or Mopar filters (made by fleetguard). Case IH dealer has them, or Genosgarage.com

 

Yes Sir, another good brand!!

 

Same here! The small amount of trapped air in the fuel line gets vented out through the injection pump return line just as it was designed to do.

ALSO, get a Cummins Service manual because there are things that you do on a Cummins that IS different than on a gasser. Failure to follow their directions will IMMEDIATELY bite you right in the wallet!

 

Exactly.

Many can't seem to get it that the fuel system is not at all like the brake system, and always harbor a mis-guided belief that air will always remain trapped until they physically "bleed" it out.


Unless there is a huge air leak somewhere, or you are out of fuel, the instant the engine fires it bleeds itself of any entrained air.

 

Just did my service on the CTD. I followed the advice about filling the filters to the brim, then carefully re-installing them.

Had a bit of an issue with the old fuel filter, wouldn't come loose and kept loosening that collar with the sensor...not sure what that one is? The drain valve off the bottom of the fuel filter is broken, and missing the wiring...believe for water in the fuel? Anyone have one, or can I buy one new from the jobber?

Cranked the motor 1 turn and fired right up, no problems!! Thanks again for the advice and help!!

 

That collar is the fuel-heater; in my opinion, a useless problem waiting to happen. ( Others will argue. )

Sooner or later, the fuel-heater will start leaking and require O-ring replacement.

There is such a thing as a fuel-heater delete stud that permits permanent removal of the heater; I have them on our trucks.


Most of us are using a larger capacity solid-bottom fuel-filter that comes with a water-drain made right onto the filter itself, with no wire connections.

FleetGuard FS1221

Baldwin, Donaldson, and WIX make equivalents, plus shorter and longer versions.


Always carry at least one new fuel-filter, preferably several.

 

It is possible to pre-lube the turbo and engine.

On a stock engine, dis-connect the power wire at the fuel-solenoid.

On a properly equipped kill-cable engine, simply leave the cable pulled out.

Crank the engine several times to get the oil flowing.

Re-connect the solenoid wire and you are all set.

This is very good procedure for any engine that has sat un-used for a spell.




Later model computer-controlled engines allow for this by keeping the fuel turned OFF for a few seconds of cranking; good for the engine, but not so good when you have just left the bank with a permanent withdrawal.