1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Serpentine Belt

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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 05:45 AM
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Serpentine Belt

I have a new belt for the truck , went to put it on and it is too long, followed the routing diagram under the hood also. I need to get the correct belt for my 93, does anyone have it off hand? I have not been to an auto parts store yet, trying to get my truck back together and finished.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 06:21 AM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by nolafishr
I have a new belt for the truck , went to put it on and it is too long, followed the routing diagram under the hood also. I need to get the correct belt for my 93, does anyone have it off hand? I have not been to an auto parts store yet, trying to get my truck back together and finished.
Two things you need to know.


Intercooled ?

Ac ?

Rock auto has the listings and make it super easy to figure out which one it is you have.

Intercooled units are about 1 5/8" longer than non (both with A/C) Without a/c they're approximately 17.5 " shorter.


So it depends on what you have.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 10:23 AM
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I think I know what is wrong, I looked at the diagram and drawing again and I believe the belt is routed wrong, will try again.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by nolafishr
I think I know what is wrong, I looked at the diagram and drawing again and I believe the belt is routed wrong, will try again.

It's extremely easy to misroute the belt, as I've done it almost every time I went to put it back on after it being off for a while. The diagram isn't exactly the best one ever designed, and the tensioner's strength alone makes it a pita to put the belt back on.

BTW,

If you buy a new tensioner, usually the new one has a 1/2" square hole for the breaker bar to move the arm to install the belt. My OE one had a 3/8" square, and it was a real pain to install a belt.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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From: Charles Town, WV
Originally Posted by NJTman

If you buy a new tensioner, usually the new one has a 1/2" square hole for the breaker bar to move the arm to install the belt. My OE one had a 3/8" square, and it was a real pain to install a belt.

The proper tool makes all the difference in the world also.



I have a kit pretty much identical to that pic. Very handy.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by Gots_a_sol
The proper tool makes all the difference in the world also.



I have a kit pretty much identical to that pic. Very handy.
I couldn't agree more, except that I've taken my belt off the truck twice. Once when I bought the truck, and secondly when I did my kdp. Since I changed everything when I did the kdp, I won't have to take it back off for a couple of years or so.....

So the money I could have spent on the right tool (which I will eventually want to buy), has been going towards the beer fund I've been working on the last 27 years.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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From: Charles Town, WV
Good point. I can't think of taking the belt off of my truck more than twice since I bought it also. Once when I replaced the tensioner and belt and again when I was putting my on board air together.

I bought mine when I was working in a shop, so I was using it quite often then
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 08:46 PM
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Since the tensioners vary between 3/8" and 1/2" sockets I carry a short section of 1/2"od square tubing as an adapter and use a 3/8" flex socket handle, a section of conduit fits the handle and makes it easy to unload the tension as the belt is routed around the pullies, the handle extends to get the right leverage, also be careful of the belt getting caught on the lower gearcase bolt.
I had to refigure my belts because of my larger alternator but they still run the same way.

Jim
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 10:10 PM
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Since the tensioners vary between 3/8" and 1/2" sockets I carry a short section of 1/2"od square tubing as an adapter and use a 3/8" flex socket handle, a section of conduit fits the handle and makes it easy to unload the tension as the belt is routed around the pullies, the handle extends to get the right leverage, also be careful of the belt getting caught on the lower gearcase bolt.
I had to refigure my belts because of my larger alternator but they still run the same way.

Jim
Good idea. Although the tool is great to have, I also keep a piece of conduit in my truck tool box to add leverage to my ratchet handle in case of roadside belt problems.
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