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sand blast and treat frame....

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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 08:36 AM
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From: Springfield, TN
sand blast and treat frame....

i am going to be scraping down and treating my frame. i have a few questions.
i am looking at sand blasters at harbor freight. is there a great advantage to buying a presurized tank vs a hopper style. second is there something that is great to treat the frame with? i looked at the "rust bullet" add but that is some pricey stuff right there. ace hardware carries a "rust stop" primer that is supposed to convert and remaining rust to primer... and if i do that do i have to put a second coat of anything? or does anyone have any other suggestions?
Thanks, Mark
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 09:03 AM
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The pressurized blasters work a lot faster than the siphon feed deals, if you have enough compressor. I use POR and have had good luck.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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sorry, no idea what POR is? i'll try google.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 09:44 AM
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Paint On Rust
POR-15 is one of their products.
Looks like a nice product, I've never used it yet, but I know people who have.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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Paint over rust - not sure where is the best place to get it these days though!!
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 10:25 AM
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I like the POR-15 product -- you can order on-line from them direct -- might be able to get it a little cheaper, though.

Get the little, tiny cans. It costs more, but the stuff goes a pretty long way. I get the silver (which is a little tougher because it has a lot of aluminum pigment in it) and then top-coat with grey or black primer.

You must top-coat while the POR-15 is still slightly tacky. Once it is dry, other paint won't stick. They sell a binder, but it is $$.

I brush it on, then spary over it. It normally makes for a nice finish -- plenty good for frames & underbody -- almost good enough for panel finish.

It sticks best to blasted and pickled metal (what doesn't) -- so I don't buy into the paint over rust, but once it is on and cured, it sticks HARD, and really provides a strong base for the top-coat.

As for sand-blasting: make sure that you match your continuous available CFM and the orifice size you're using. Pressure blasters are a little more efficient no matter how big or small your compressor -- just make sure your nozzle is small enough (if you have a small compressor, as in less than 20 CFM, you will probably have to use a slightly finer medium than you would otherwise choose, so that it doesn't clog the nozzle.)

It's a PITA, but the only way to make things last.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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The Hopper and pressured blasters work about the same in my eyes. as long as your sand is dry. I bought the HF 80# pressure one a few years ago. The ball valve they give you for sand control will wear out so buy a second valve or the other tiger assy they sell. Be prepared because it will be a very messy job. I like POR 15 however an epoxy primer and 2 part black paint would probally work just as well. I use Omni epoxy primer on most things its about 70.00 a gallon plus about 25.00 for the hardener. Shoots well with the HF HVLP gravity fed gun.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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You will be blasting forever if you go with the syphon type. Also make sure that you use blasting sand or aluminum oxide for media, if you use sand from a home building store the nozzle will constantly clog on you and it becomes a big pain in the ****.A sandblaster will run a compressor to death.You may want to look into renting a sandblaster and a gas or diesel screw compressor for a weekend from a rental place.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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i worked on the truck a good bit today. i scraped, brushed, and angle grinder brushed. i just can't really get all that close or into the susspension brackets. part of me wants to be done with it was at the same time i don't want to do a crappy job. is it going to be best if i drop the fuel tank out of the way? BTW i think i knocked off at least 50 pounds of sand/oil/who knows what already.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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Uhm why ? a good blaster will go a lot easier, PS dont blast anything with a bearing it it, or front end parts, it will blow sand into places it shouldnt be.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 06:57 PM
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Siphon jobbers are useless unless you're buying it to use once or twice a year and have time to waste.

Best bet is to take it to a professional and have it done right and right in hurry. We use a 650lb. Empire Blast Pot with air controlled remotes. I would quote that job at about $62.50 (1/2 @ 125 per hr.)

If you have a use for it and have a safe area to do the work it might be worth it to look at a small pressure pot with the proper dead man controls.

I think the non- homeowner models start around $1,200.
The el' cheapos are anywhere from $75.00 for a 25lb.er up to a few hundred for bigger, but still low quality units.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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1 SANDBLAST SUCK that crap goes everywhere its only good if you take frame of truck
2 paint it with red oxide and then put color paint that you want on it
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DODGE 92
1 SANDBLAST SUCK that crap goes everywhere its only good if you take frame of truck
2 paint it with red oxide and then put color paint that you want on it
Oh, absolutely true. I didn't read far enough to see you were not "frame off".
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by P.J
Siphon jobbers are useless unless you're buying it to use once or twice a year and have time to waste.

Best bet is to take it to a professional and have it done right and right in hurry. We use a 650lb. Empire Blast Pot with air controlled remotes. I would quote that job at about $62.50 (1/2 @ 125 per hr.)

If you have a use for it and have a safe area to do the work it might be worth it to look at a small pressure pot with the proper dead man controls.

I think the non- homeowner models start around $1,200.
The el' cheapos are anywhere from $75.00 for a 25lb.er up to a few hundred for bigger, but still low quality units.

Do you media blast cars? Do you know anyone in NC who does?
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 08:41 AM
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I have used a couple of different "rust converters," most recently POR-15. They have a web site and there is a POR store on ebay. It is tough stuff but it was only last summer that I used it so the jury is out on longevity. It would be hard to use in places that showed. It "alligators" so would require sanding if you did. It also isnt UV resistant. Eastwood is selling some now in different colors that is not supposed to alligator and is UV resistant. I used a Permatex version several years ago that worked well but I am not sure if they still make it. The bottom line for any of them, like any paint job, is massive preperation. I coudnt imagine being able to do a good enough job for them to be effective with out doing a frame off.

Tim
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