1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

sand blast and treat frame....

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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 12:47 PM
  #16  
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P.J
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From: Port Deposit, MD
Originally Posted by Mcmopar
Do you media blast cars? Do you know anyone in NC who does?
We can throw just about any material (shot,grit,glass,sand,blackbeauty,walnut shells,plastic,staurolite,garnet,etc) the only isssue I have is with re-claiming. In other words, we have good sources for media, but the materials can get very expensive.

For instance Silica Sand is about $.07 a pound. Melamine(plastic shot) is about $1.30 a pound.

Most of the higher dollar medias are meant to be shot many many times (up to 200 cycles). Although we have a completly INDOOR facility, we do not have floor re-claimers or media cleaners/seperators (meaning, one shot and your done).

I am not aware of anyone in N.C that blasts, might want to check your local yellow pages or thomasdirectory.net.

Sometimes we find that upscale body shops have blast rooms, they are not cheap to set up and run.
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 01:06 PM
  #17  
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From: Richmond, VA
IMHO POR-15 polyurethane is MUCH more durable than red oxide primers. The industrial Rust Oleum with fish oil is pretty good, and will work with slightly less surface prep, but it is not nearly as tough or salt resistant in my experience. I think that the urethane sticks better than the epoxy, too. The epoxy seems to rely more on film strength, so will let corrosion migrate under the paint more.

Of course, the real problem is that the paint formulas keep changing -- I suppose that is the EPA at work.

BTW, I would gladly pay $70 bucks to have my frame sand-blasted -- does that include the initial steam-clean, etc?
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 08:17 PM
  #18  
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From: Land of milk and honey.
http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...tal_paint.html

try here
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 08:31 PM
  #19  
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From: Left Coast, (Right Wing)
Micaiahfied:

I have no experience with sandblasting. But I can tell you that I have used Rust Destroyer paint on a number of projects and can verify that the stuff works great. You remove the loose rust etc and the paint will really stick and convert the rust. Also it accepts paint well. The last project I used it on was a farm disc.......it has yet to rust since painting it. The paint is really heavy weight wise per quart. Hope this helps.
http://www.rust007.com/destroyerhome.htm

Dusty
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 09:40 PM
  #20  
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From: Ontario, Canada
is covering the frame in POR-15 suppose to make the paint last longer then powdercoating? or you just do this because its easier that you don't have to take everything off?
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 06:45 AM
  #21  
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From: Port Deposit, MD
BTW, I would gladly pay $70 bucks to have my frame sand-blasted -- does that include the initial steam-clean, etc?
Any heavy cleaning, disassembly or hand work is extra. The basic rate in the blast room is $125.00 an hour. You'd be suprised how much area can be cleaned in a short amount of time.
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