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Running like crap after valve adjustment...

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Old Apr 5, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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Running like crap after valve adjustment...

Ok, so i finished up adjusting the valves tonight and turned the key. Didn't start right up as usual so i tried it again. Same thing, so i gave it a little gas and it fired over, but runs really ruff.
So with that in mind did i adjut them backwards? I did use the alternator pulley method to turn the engine, but i don't see how it would get them backwards?
Any advice?'
Thanks
Brent
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Old Apr 5, 2006 | 11:38 PM
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Better get them valve covers back off and dubble check them valve!!!! Make shore you did it right! take the time to be positive that you are on top Dead Center of #1!

Did you us the timing pin to find T.D.C?
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Old Apr 5, 2006 | 11:44 PM
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I did use the timing pin to find tdc. It pushed into the hole and wouldn't let the engine turn either way, so i'm pretty sure it was right.
There was some mention on making sure you adjusted the right valves when you used the alternator pulley to turn the engine as it turns it backwards. I'm thinking i adjusted them backwards, but i'm not really sure.
Brent
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Old Apr 5, 2006 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by serious
I did use the timing pin to find tdc. It pushed into the hole and wouldn't let the engine turn either way, so i'm pretty sure it was right.
There was some mention on making sure you adjusted the right valves when you used the alternator pulley to turn the engine as it turns it backwards. I'm thinking i adjusted them backwards, but i'm not really sure.
Brent
Barring tool or alternator pulley...does it make a difference when using the companion method?
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 12:32 AM
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I got a hunch you may have gotten the intake and exhaust valves mixed up.
Before you starter up again I would double check everything.

Take a look at the following site, it gives step by step instructions on how to adjust the valves.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/val.../12_valve.html

By the way it does not matter whether you turn the engine over backwards or forwards, the main thing is as long as the crank is rotated a full 360 degrees.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 12:41 AM
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That's the instruction that i used in adjusting them. It's pretty much verbatim from the factory service manual.
Just to make sure i have my orientation correct, number 1 is closet to the radiator and number 6 is by the firewall right? This is how i adjusted them. The only other thing that i can think of is that i adjusted .009 for the intake instead of .010 and .018 instead of .020 for the exhaust for a little more lift as wannadiesel suggested.
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Brent
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by serious
That's the instruction that i used in adjusting them. It's pretty much verbatim from the factory service manual.
Just to make sure i have my orientation correct, number 1 is closet to the radiator and number 6 is by the firewall right? This is how i adjusted them. The only other thing that i can think of is that i adjusted .009 for the intake instead of .010 and .018 instead of .020 for the exhaust for a little more lift as wannadiesel suggested.
Thanks
Brent
Brent, the 1st time I used the companion method mine started and idled horrible with a loud knocking. I started over with the valve adjustments again and realized where I messed up. #6 intake comes up and # 6 exhaust is to starts heading down is TDC. That is the proper way as explained in the instructions. The 1st time I attempted this method I assumed TDC was when # 6 intake came up and then started to head down. Bad move. Maybe this is what you might've did. Carmyne
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 12:53 AM
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Brent,
Yes, number 1 is closest to the radiator and number 6 is by the firewall. I have heard of other guys also setting the valves a little tighter than the recommended .010 and .020 without any apparent problems.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 12:59 AM
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I wasn't watching the valve/rocker arm movement. What i did was located the tdc mark by using the timing pin. Adjusted the valves as mentioned in the write up, marked the crank and them rotated one full turn and adjusted the other valves.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 06:31 AM
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Did any of the valves seem really far out? I don't think my valve covers had been off in 376,000 and I only had a couple that were way out (.002-.004)
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by G1625S
Did any of the valves seem really far out? I don't think my valve covers had been off in 376,000 and I only had a couple that were way out (.002-.004)

Mine were about the same.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 08:49 AM
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Mine were almost right on after at least 100,000 last owner did not do them ever. You must have been 180 out in relation to crank/cam position(hits TDC twice for each cam revolution) if you had to do more than light adjustment. watch #6 until it's at crossover (one rocker going up, the other going down at the same time).There are some other methods you can use.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 08:51 AM
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Valve adj can be vary frustrating at first,Don't give up, u'll get it!

When the timing pin go it you will fill it snap in the hole. PULL THE PIN BACK OUT AMEDEATLY OR YOU COULD SNAP THE PLASTIC PIN OFF!

Ya been there dun that and the plastic.. .......It vary $$$$$$ to replace!!!!
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 10:25 AM
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If you're using the alternator boltand turning the engine backwards, you should watch #6 exhaust valve open and when it closes #6 intake should start to open. Right there is TDC for #1. It isn't exactly TDC but it's close enough. Then you do half the valves. Turn the crank over 1 full turn and do the other half of the valves. It's easy to get exhaust and intake mixed up. Just remember the exhaust valves are next to the exhaust manifold tubes and get .020 of clearance.

Dis you DL the proceedure at: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/val.../12_valve.html

Edwin
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Did by chance one of the fuel line connections loosen a bit at one of the injectors or a fuel line got bent while you were adjusting the valves???

Just a thought.
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