So I just got through replacing a bunch of fusible links on my '92 W250, and I can't believe that it wouldn't be better to have a fuse block or holders of some kind. I couldn't even get that rubber molded multi fusible link junction from the dealer; they told me I had to buy the whole harness.. (!) So I had to splice the new FL material onto the stubs of the already blown links, which probably won't last long.

What I can't seem to find is a chart showing how many amps of fuse I would need to replace a fusible link of a certain gauge.

Has anyone done this changeover?

Thanks!

 

I would stick with the fusible links, if they burn out you need to find the problem, if you change to fuses you will be replacing them all the time or using oversize fuses and taking a chance of burning up the wiring harness.

 

I just don't relish having to change any of them again, since the manufacturer left almost no wire to splice to and one end of my new fusible links are spliced to old FL material, which I don't trust. Plus I just generally don't trust crimp style butt connectors. It just looks like a trouble spot. And I don't know why I would be replacing fuses any more often than FLs, and if I was, I would sure rather plug in a new fuse than have to monkey around with splicing onto little bitty stubs of wire in awkward places. Is there something I am missing here about the nature of FLs?

The FLs blew in the first place from a bad ignition switch. After I replaced the switch, I realized it had also had blown several FLs.

 

Go by a 40 amp circuit breaker tie it in temporary, to find that problem, and then I would stick with DJ suggestions and put the fusible links after the short is found.

They us fusible link because thay can handle power spikes where a fuse or circuit breaker's that matter ,would just blow!
One fusible link will supply a lot of power to many components.
the voltage or actually the amperage can spike before it comes down to it working load and that's were the fusible links shine!!!!

 

On fusible link protected vehicles the fusible link can serve at least 2 purposes: protecting the circuit and adding a calculated amount of resistance into the circuit. Simply changing to a fuse removes this proper resistance from the circuit and may cause some problems or glitches in computer controlled devices. That's one of the reasons fusible links are a precise length and gauge of wire so that they can perform all needed functions simultaneously. You would have to be pretty good at electronics to duplicate the resistance factor....

 

Well, I had to put in replacements that were longer by a couple of inches just to have room to work. For something that may someday need to be replaced, they left NO extra wire on the harness to do so. I get your point though, but still it just seems like a place where all kinds of crimp connectors should not be, and if exact length matters, I don't know how I'll get it in there. And I also had to use a slightly different gauge on one of them because my parts store didn't have the 22 g stuff.

Any idea where I could buy the proper Dodge fusible link block without buying a whole new harness?

 

I sometimes, no, OFTEN wonder just exactly where in the world these 'Inguniears' got their degrees? Bangladesh Community College? How many times have we looked at one of their mechanical marvels and wondered, "WHAT were these idiots thinking!???!!!

 

I'm guessing that it's the bean counters as often as the engineers. I used to be a VW mechanic, and while I'm pretty fond of german engineering, the old fuel injected squarebacks had a notorious problem with the fuel injection that was a result of the wiring harness being so short that the movement of the motor over time could pull on the wires enough to damage them.

Frankly, as much as I love this truck, the body, interior and electrcial are not up to the task of lasting as long as the engine. I've got so many little electrical glitches that I've learned to ignore. The only gauge that still works right all the time is the voltmeter. Every other guage is glitchy and unreliable. The headlight switch has been replaced several times because it's not up to the task of handling running lights and trailer lights. My seat is whipped on the driver's side and the driver's side door hinges are all loose and wobbly. the power windows still go up and down, but with some glitchines there as well.

Thank god for the awesome engine!

Back on topic though, why the heck doesn't Dodge supply the fusible link junction block separate from the wiring harness?

 

Because it would be cheaper.......

 

Well I think if I have to do this again, I will solder bullet connectors to the harness side, so at least the wire doesn't get shorter with each repair.

 

Woodrat,

I feel your pain. I had a fusible link fail to the ignition as well. I endured the same emotional turmoil as you are currently experiencing. I thought...why me?...I'm a good person, lol. Anyhow, after disparaging the person at Dodge who made the decision to use fusible links when there were more modern(read better) options available, I set out to repair it. I, too, had NO length to reattach a replacement link onto the block. It was bad all the way into that blasted block, so that option was out. Instead, I installed a 20A circuit breaker onto the driver's fender near the relays, ran a wire from the battery to the CB and then another from the CB to the ignition wire where I had removed the fusible link. I heat-shrinked all the splices. It works fine now...never a problem. I am currently waiting for another to fail, as they appear to be a quite fragile design. I have future plans to completely replace the failure prone links with a power distribution box out of a Ford van. These contain Maxifuses, standard fuses and relays and should solve the problem once and for all. The box out of a van is smaller, so it will fit well in the space provided. It will also allow for future expansion of electrical needs and I plan to set up my headlights, trailer lights and auxillary lighting on the relays in the box. I have a factory manual for my truck and will ensure the loads are properly protected. I will also take photos and chronicle the process, so hopefully someone else can try something similar if they wish.

p.s. I gots to know.....where is Skamokawa?

 

Way to go! I'll definitely be looking for that one. I just got finished re-doing all the botched accessory wiring the PO had done. Four - count 'em - 4 additional lugs on the battery terminal as well as a ground coming from G0d knows where with a fuse in it! Contemplating some relays for the headlights. Electrics never was a Mopar strong suit.

 

I am always amazed at how many people complain about how poorly designed our 15 year old trucks are. Must have not been too poorly made huh? I personally have only blown one fuse link on mine and it was from stupidity of shorting a wrench to ground from a hot terminal. I think if the wiring, doors, seats and so on have lasted 15 years then it was very well designed and built. I know it can be frustrating at times but it is all worth it in the long run. All vehicles are equipped with fuse links for a good reason, they work, they work well and last a long time. Fuses will not work in place of the links for the already stated reasons so just keep splicing and enjoying the good times with your truck.

 

I just wish that they had made the tag ends of the harness a few inches longer so that splicing on new FL material wasn't such a PITA. And I do think that, in general, they are pretty fragile. I replaced the ones in my Toyota truck and Landcruiser with fuses when they blew, but there there were only three of them in those trucks. This one has many more than that. ( I have put on many, many miles on dirt roads in all my trucks. The vibration probably has something to do with the short life span of my FLs.) And I do think that if FL are the way to go, but may need to be replaced someday that they would either make them more easily spliced or at least carry the dang replacment parts!

And, ya know, I think an American pickup truck with a 500,000 mile motor ought to not fall apart as if they had a 150,000 mile motor. I've had 40 year old trucks that were holding together in the body and electrical department better than this one has. A heavy pickup truck that is commonly used for towing ought to have a headlight switch that can handle running lights and trailer lights without melting down, too. Still, like I said, I love the truck, but for it's drivetrain mostly. I saw on ebay a while back a totally restored 67 Chevy 3/4 4x4 with the cummins/NV4500 drivetrain installed. Now THAT would be a long lasting truck!

Anyway, it sounds like for now I will stick with them, but I sure don't trust my whole electrical system to be fed through that many crimped butt connectors! I will be looking forward to your fuse block conversion pictures, firstgenner.

Oh, and Skamokawa is about 35 miles west of Longview, WA, on State Route 4 on the way to the beach. The Columbia River is about 3 miles from my house.

 

rlyons,

I don't believe anyone on this thread stated that our trucks are poorly designed in general, however, the fusible links used on them seem to have a rather high failure rate and that is the point of contention with this particular thread. My truck has almost 250K and is still ticking, so I will agree that they are overall very solid rigs. I personally have had one link fail and I outlined how I repaired it. I could not viably replace the link, since it was bad all the way into the plastic block, so I went to plan B and installed a circuit breaker. It has worked fine and I have not seen any indication of an overloaded circuit causing problems. I must respectfully disagree with your statement that fuses cannot be used as a replacement, since more modern electrical systems use exactly those. They are called "Maxifuses" and are designed for automotive power distribution. I also feel that more of our truck's circuits should be relay controlled for better function. I plan on using these things for my application and will post back with the results when I can clear my docket and get to that project.