I'm sure this has been brought up before but I'm going to throw it out there. I recently purchased a used pump from a guy on Craigslist. It was the age old "it worked when we took it off" story. The pump was sealed up good and locked before it was removed. It looks to be in good shape but what could i do to make sure it's a sound injecting pump before i install it. Like everyone else probably would i sure would like to just throw this baby on and go without having to have it rebuilt. I know there's the peace of mind thing about just having it rebuilt and never looking back but as is always the case. ... money is tight. Any input yall could throw my way would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

I don't know enough about them to be able to suggest any thing. But just from your picture I can tell the pump is not locked. The pin keeper (not sure the technical name) is still under the bolt that is supposed to lock the shaft.

 

Wow, your absolutely right. Blonde moment. Can't believe it, looked right at it too. Well is it still possible to install the pump even though it was not locked. Somehow returning the pump to TDC (so to speak) and installing with the engine locked in at TDC.

 

I'm not sure on these, but I have done it on cat ip's in the past. What I found on the is if the pump has only ever been locked in TDC, looking in the hole with a light you can see a mark on the shaft from the locking pin. Rotating the shaft center the mark in the hole, and you should be TDC, or 180 off.

Then with engine set at TDC, install pump, if it will not fire. Set engine back to TDC remove pump, rotate shaft until the mark comes back into view, reinstall pump and try again.

 

You can see from the position of the key it is not at TDC.

Set it up like a distribuitor could be 180* out.

It did not come with the breakover assy? might be kind of touchy getting it to idle hitting the right spline.

Also check for play in the throttle shaft.

 

I've been told doesn't matter as long as you line up the keyway. Is that right or wrong?

 

I don't see how it could be anything but correct as far as the input shaft is concerned. The pump turns at 1/2 crank speed. The lock down is so you can install it by lining up the gear with the timing pin and having initial timing to specification. If the engine it was removed from was not at factory timing, then locking it down is pointless.


If it isn't bench spec'd and locked, you have to time it on the engine. That's done by removing the plug in the center of the distributor end of the pump and installing a dial indicator. I forget what initial setting is. Should be in the service manual.

 

while you have it off, why not just spend the $30 and an evening to reseal it? loctite the front seal as well so it doesn't blow out with higher inlet fuel pressure.

 

Seeing as money is tight, you are perfectly fine to just turn shaft to line up the keyway and install. Advance pump approx. 1/8" towards head before tightening down flange nuts. Your good to go. Your only wasting 2hrs of your time if the pump isn't healthy. Just keep an eye on your oil level for 1st week or so, just in case seal is leaky.

 

I will most likely reseal it while it's out now that i found the sticky how to. Peace of mind. So if I'm reading this right, just turn the shaft to line up the key way and install. It won't be 180° out? I didn't even notice it was missing the breakover assembly. My goodness I'm starting to regret this purchase. I guess thats what happens when you meet someone that's in a rush late at night. I'm reaching out to him now to see if he has any of the missing components.

 

In my own experience, all of these engines will land in the exact same spot when shut down, leaving the injection-pump up on the cam-lobes under head-spring pressure.

The key-way will be at about the 4:30 position.

I am assuming you have a different pump that is/was already on your engine.

LOCK that pump before removing it and place the replacement pump in the exact same position and lock it prior to install.

It will not be easy, as the head-springs will be wanting to snap it to the bottom of the cam lobes.


As for the throttle levers being absent, just line everything up exactly as it was on the old pump and it should be fine; I have never seen an unmolested pump to be any different from all the rest of them.


I would be highly suspect of a used pump that was not on an engine and would want to know why it was removed; people just don't part-out these engines.

 

You are correct.

The only way one of these pumps can be 180* out is to be improperly assembled internally; there is no possible way to install a properly assembled pump 180* out.

 

The motor I'm planning on installing this pump on has no injection pump on it currently. Been sitting for about a year and a half that way. I was planning on turning the engine until it locked at top dead center then turning the shaft on the pump until the key lined up and stabbing it in there. From what I'm reading this should work fine?

 

The motor I'm planning on installing this pump on has no injection pump on it currently. Been sitting for about a year and a half that way. I was planning on turning the engine until it locked at top dead center then turning the shaft on the pump until the key lined up and stabbing it in there. From what I'm reading this should work fine? The reason this pump was removed from engine it came off was the guy did a ppump swap.