Removing the door off an LE
Removing the door off an LE
I need to remove the drivers side door to fix the lower hinge(broken out of the door). I know someone has done this, I'm would like to know is there an easy way to remove the wires for the speaker, door lock, and windows. Is there a plug on the truck side that unplugs them all or do I have to unwire them out of the door and snake them out.
Any tips on fixing the door would be great.
Thanks,
Any tips on fixing the door would be great.
Thanks,
I've only removed my door to replace the hinge pins. It's due again soon. I didn't have to remove the wires but the one thing I had problems with was holding the door in position by myself. My hinge is about to tear out of the door too so let me know how your repair goes. The only piece of advice I have is to get help or buy a door holder from harbor freight. I'm going to buy one before I try this again. Should make it much easier. It's a dolly on rollers that holds the door and the height is adjustable. I think that they are about $100
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40386
Here it is. $79.99 it's a deal in my book. It's a pain to balance the door on blocks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40386
Here it is. $79.99 it's a deal in my book. It's a pain to balance the door on blocks.
I had to remove the driver's door to weld up the crack where the lower hinge is mounted on the door. Remove the interior panel and save all your clips. You should be able to unplug everything inside door if no one has been in there monkeying around. I know of no way to unplug them from the truck side as it is a complete harness. Even with a door holder it would be wise to have help. Pay attention to which way the window switch goes back in the door or up will be down. To help prevent doing the job again try to NOT shut down the engine with the door open. Most likely the dog shake is what is cracking the metal. Mine has been repaired for about 3 months and so far so good. Good luck and work safe.
I just use the engine hoist and a couple of nylon straps to hold doors when I pull them.
Roll the window down and wrap them around the top of the frame. the pull to tighten style ones make it easy to adjust the length to hold the door the way you need it.
Also, mark around hinges on the door with a sharpie before removing it, makes getting it lined back up later alot easier.
I have been looking for some difinitive ways to reliably repair the door on mine, same proplem, and haven't come up with much. On my dads 90 we welded the cracks shut, but they quickly cracked back out again.
I was thinking of maybe drilling 1/8" holes at the ends of the cracks before welding the rest of them back together, maybe this would help?
Another Idea was to add some extra metal on the inside and also to weld an extra set of ears on the lower hinge to put another couple bolts through the door.
Roll the window down and wrap them around the top of the frame. the pull to tighten style ones make it easy to adjust the length to hold the door the way you need it.
Also, mark around hinges on the door with a sharpie before removing it, makes getting it lined back up later alot easier.
I have been looking for some difinitive ways to reliably repair the door on mine, same proplem, and haven't come up with much. On my dads 90 we welded the cracks shut, but they quickly cracked back out again.
I was thinking of maybe drilling 1/8" holes at the ends of the cracks before welding the rest of them back together, maybe this would help?
Another Idea was to add some extra metal on the inside and also to weld an extra set of ears on the lower hinge to put another couple bolts through the door.
Oh!
I forgot, I made a new backing plate using the old one as a template. It is large enough to get past the original damage and it is 1/16th thicker. We had to trim it for a custom fit.
I forgot, I made a new backing plate using the old one as a template. It is large enough to get past the original damage and it is 1/16th thicker. We had to trim it for a custom fit.
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