Snaple4

Hello everyone. I acquired an early 92 D250 last year that was used as a roofing work truck its whole life. Now I use it as an HVAC service truck... So I have been a frequent visitor to this ever increasingly helpful site.

Now to the questions, and I did try my best at searching for this already. I am going to replace the fuse links with an early 90's ford fuse block (It has several Maxi Fuse, a few regular fuse, and several relay slots on a common bus.) But my concern is the amount of amps that people are fusing these wires for. Has anyone moved the fuse block from the cab into the engine bay and done the fuse link abatement? This would help me increase the wire size and section out the wires for proper protection. Or is there just way to much wire and other stuff to accomplish this? I know there has been a lot of work electrically done to the truck but can't tell what.

Things I have done electrically to the truck:

- Moved my fan to a relay b/c my ignition was hot enough to cook food (have not done the high relay from Jim Lane yet).
- Headlights on relay.
- TPS on a potentiometer
- Took windows off of fuse-block for always hot source.

Mechanically:
- Injection Pump rebuilt (Guy who did it said it should deliver about 10% more power but not sure what they did)
- New lift pump
- Water Pump
- Springs and shocks (Still sags in the front and rubs on tires. Any idea why?)
- Lots of front end stuff to tighten up steering and such.
- Valves adjusted.
- Other general maint stuff like brakes, air filter...

Also just did an oil analysis from Blackstone and attached the pdf.

feets

Welcome!

It's much easier to replace the fusible links under the hood and leave the interior box alone.

In fact, I just did mine last night.

The fuse box I used came from a mid 90s Cadillac that was in the salvage yard. It has two rows of 6 maxi fuses and one box of relays.
Last night I popped the fuse blocks out of the base. Each row pops out as an assembly and has it's own wiring. A large lug pokes out the front to attach the feed from the battery.

It makes for a nice tidy easy to install package. The best part is that you don't have to mess around with the wiring under the dash.

93-331-29psi

I haven't moved things from the inside panel, but I also have an underhood box from a ranger that I am going to be transitioning circuits onto with hopes of keeping the load off the factory box and it's antiquated wiring.

edit: I only plan to move the high amp circuits (blower motor, and lights) and anything new I add everything else I'll leave alone.

NE frmhnd

I got one out of a 98 malibu, and when putting power to the battery lug, all relays had 2 posts hot. Must have been switched on the ground. Won't work for what I got it for.

james1

Was this Cadillac unit made to mount under the hood or was it originally located inside the car?

Can you post a photograph?

Thanks,

feets

The Cadillac unit was under the hood of the car. I tried to Google pics of it but can't find the right pic of it online. I'll have to take a pic this evening when I get home.

Snaple4

Feets: Thanks for the response. What size of fuses did you use? Did you do just the fuse links or some of the other wires?

The fuse box I found does have the power for the relays separate from the rest of the box. So I might run a few of the dash fuse box wires through this new one.

feets

Here is a shot of the fuse box and and the fuse block removed from the assembly. The power is fed through the steel blade on the bottom. Obviously, that will need to be shielded when installed in the truck.

There was a second fuse block in the gap. It was the one I stuffed in the truck. We're getting freezing rain tonight so I'm not in the mood to run out there and take pics of my installation.

I left the existing fuses in place. They are a mix of 60, 50, and 30 amps. I wasn't worried about feeding too much power in since each circuit is fused separately. I wired them in place of the fusible links and into a couple circuits for added accessories.

Snaple4

So I have my new fuse box that I am going to use. Problem is, I don't know where to get the locking female connectors for the Maxi Fuses. I can find the 1/4 ones for the regular fuses. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, what is the best way to get a control signal from the ignition for the relays? I don't want to pull to much of a load that I risk burning something up.

feets

Those two questions are good examples of why it's easier to replace only the fusible links and not try to reinvent the wheel.

You're either going to have a very expensive relay to flip big power on and off or a bunch of little relays powering each circuit.

Now that you're dead set on defeating the factory wiring have you figured out how you're going to get power to the ignition switch? It needs to have full time power so it can turn on other stuff.


Leave the factory fuse box alone. Replace the fusible links and call it a day.

mknittle

Maybe this? they also sell a capped inline holder for the maxi fuses.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Maxi-Fuse-Block/p_790097

They have lots of good stuff.

Snaple4

I had already been thinking about that and will probably scale back my plans. The fuse links need to be done since the PO didn't keep great care of the wires in that area. However, I am going to "Fix" a few things from the factory box. The darn thing just hangs there waiting to set my truck ablaze. Also, a few of the links have already been eliminated. For instance, the windows and Heat/AC control power is all a jumbled mess under the dash. Those and a few of the other problem children will be relocated to the engine bay. I also have a small power drawl from somewhere that I suspect is from one of those three areas.

Also, those little locking female connectors for that box can be had from the ford dealership with a wire already attached... He quoted me $6 each!!! Looks like I get to go digging in a junk yard with a pare of wire cutters and a small pick :-)

MARF75

looks like you got that from a Ford. I looked hi and Lo for those female connectors to no avail.
I got the power distribution box from a Crown Vic and then scavenged a bunch of those female connectors from other Crown Vics. I left plenty of wire to splice them back in. With the 4 relay spots, I was able to wire 2 of them for Jim Lanes headlight upgrade and the other 2 for his blower motor upgrade. I think it took 3 cars to get enough connectors with proper gauge wires.
I have yet to install the box. I have a similar one that I installed 2 years ago but I'm not happy with it so I'm goi.g to redo it with the new one. I am a rookie, at best, when it comes to electrical but this setup seems pretty slick.to me

MARF75

Make sure you get the right ones.

In the box I had,the connectors for the relays and the ones for the maxi fuses had the locking tabs in different spots, almost like rights and lefts.

peckens

Found some info for the relay connectors here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497903

Looks like a .250 locking tab terminal is what is needed. Here are two sources to buy
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70082701

At the bottom of this link, it looks like they have connectors that may fit a MAXI. THey re .312", may be wide enough.
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...ml#receptacles