90 w250 CTD 4x4 auto. Been to darn near every parts store and they all either don't have it or what they do have is wrong.


Is this some special beast or what? Maybe I'm looking on wrong interchanges... I don't know. Any info would be great as to where I can find these. Thanks.

 

I just changed the rear seals on my 89' D250 and the first round I used Timken 417158 and both leaked. Did it the second time and they are good after a week. I don't trust them and would replace them again if I found something better.

 

They are supposed to be an oil bath seal I guess that prevents leaks. Maybe I should try trailer place? They haven't been replaced before because I've had the truck since new, so they came like this. Why so hard to find and all the misinfo?

 

IDK, I spend a lot of time chasing part numbers. Can you print out the number on the seal? It looks like "370150BG0" is that correct?
Thanks,


I believe I might have found it.
Buy National Oil Bath Seal 370150A at Advance Auto Parts

 

Overtorqued, go to autozone and get the timkin seals. If they can't look up the right part tr the PN listed above.

 

That's were I got my last set of seals and they gave me standard seals, not the oil bath seals.

 

There are two different numbers for our trucks. Same od different id. A couple thousands difference.
My truck had the wrong sized seals in it when I bought the truck, and thinking I was doing the right thing, I put the wrong seals in again.

Eventually, I bought both seal sizes and figured it out. The smaller id seals fit, but were too tight, causing them to fail rather quickly. The other size went in then I've had no,issues since. Wrong bearings too, but that's a different story.

 

28746 should be the common CR number, 28754 is another, both for SRW trucks. Both have the same ID and OD and interchange. The only other number I know is 30033 for DRW trucks.

 

370150a unitized oil seal, same size as the stock seal but with no seal grooving issues.

 

yes I finally found the 370150a at oReilly's. Thanks so much for all the response and info. Appreciate all the knowledge you all share... Great stuff.

 

BTW, the only other strange thing was the wheel cylinders and brake shoe combo. 12x3 shoes are supposed to take the 1-1/8 bore wheel cylinder. The shoes I pulled off are 12x3's but the wheel cylinders that were on it are only 1" bore so of course I got the wrong wheel cylinders. I don't see a listing for the 12x3's with any other size? All my stuff worked fine before. Just curious if this sounds right. Thanks again.

 

250's came with 2 1/2" shoes, 1" cylinders in a 3" drum. 350's came with a 3" shoe, 1 1/8" cylinders.

Most folks put 3" shoes in the 250. Doesn't affect braking effort at all, just extends shoe life. 1 1/8" cylinders might make the rear lock up too easily with a light load.

 

Received- one less thing to worry about. I guess I'm pretty lucky as I haven't had any issues with the brakes. I have read lots of horror stories on here about brake issues. Thanks so much.

 

Okay one more quick question. When I pulled shoes apart, the little clip that goes on end of e brake cable was in the bottom of drum and cable was off. i can't find my manual and Internet connection here is slow as all heck so thought I would ask you all instead. Does the clip look like its on ok - doesn't seem to want to pop off or anything. It was off to begin with so not sure I got it back on right. Lucky the darn thing wasn't caught up somewhere.



Emergency brake cable<br/>

 

Mine were totally missing. Here's my "temporary" fix.

Takes a cobalt drill to get through the case hardening of the lever.