Rear Main Seal
#16
Registered User
I changed the Nv4500 and x-fercase in my jeep a couple of times using a single floor jack, a bunch of crib blocks, and a sheet of plywood.
I put the plywood down on the floor. I disconnectied the transmission crossmember from the frame, but left it on the transmission/transfer case assembly, and lowered it down to clear its mountings on the jack. Then I put a sling under the rear of the motor (I think a 4x4 over the back of the leaf springs and a little block were what I actually used) to hold it up, and crib blocks under the front of the tranny. Then I unbolted the bell-housing, and rolled the chassis forward to disengage the input shaft. I then kept jacking/taking blocks out from under the front of the transmission and the two ends of the crossmember until she was sitting on the plywood, then I slid the plywood out from under the car.
You need some nice wide pieces of wood if you do it this way, so that the blocking is stable, especially when you need to slide/tweak things a little on assembly.
It isn't the easiest way, but it works, and if you are careful with how you set your rigging, its safe. I think it would work on our trucks. The key is rigging the back of the engine to the frame, not the ground, and using the crossmember to give you more control over the assembly.
Good luck getting her fixed.
Alec
I put the plywood down on the floor. I disconnectied the transmission crossmember from the frame, but left it on the transmission/transfer case assembly, and lowered it down to clear its mountings on the jack. Then I put a sling under the rear of the motor (I think a 4x4 over the back of the leaf springs and a little block were what I actually used) to hold it up, and crib blocks under the front of the tranny. Then I unbolted the bell-housing, and rolled the chassis forward to disengage the input shaft. I then kept jacking/taking blocks out from under the front of the transmission and the two ends of the crossmember until she was sitting on the plywood, then I slid the plywood out from under the car.
You need some nice wide pieces of wood if you do it this way, so that the blocking is stable, especially when you need to slide/tweak things a little on assembly.
It isn't the easiest way, but it works, and if you are careful with how you set your rigging, its safe. I think it would work on our trucks. The key is rigging the back of the engine to the frame, not the ground, and using the crossmember to give you more control over the assembly.
Good luck getting her fixed.
Alec
#17
Administrator
Thread Starter
Alec,
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't know what I'm going to do yet, but I certainly have more options now than I did when I posted about this problem!
And I really like that there's a place like this I know I can come to for help from GOOD PEOPLE! Kinda gives me a feeling of security that I wouldn't otherwise have.
THANK YOU EVERYBODY!
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't know what I'm going to do yet, but I certainly have more options now than I did when I posted about this problem!
And I really like that there's a place like this I know I can come to for help from GOOD PEOPLE! Kinda gives me a feeling of security that I wouldn't otherwise have.
THANK YOU EVERYBODY!
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