Rear end rebuild or replace?
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From: North Haven,CT "Living in occupied teritory" & Barton,VT
Rear end rebuild or replace?
After pulling my transmission apart I found no smoking gun to indicate that it was the extreme noise and vibration I was getting in 4th and 5th gear. In fact it looked good other than the thing leaked like a siv and the syncros were really worn down. So after a 275mile drive this weekend to where my truck is, I pulled the rear end cover. After the metallic oil the first thing I noticed is the exciter ring for the RWAL was completely smashed down and the cover had some large scrapes and gouges in it.
The ring gear was fine but the pinion gear has a 1" chunk and two teeth taken out of it. I found the pieces in the puddle of oil that is under the ring gear in the case.
So with this I need to make a decision that I would like some help with.
Do I rebuild it or is there an upgrade? It is a duel rear wheel and 4x4, however my info from there is minimal. I thought it had 3.53s in it, but my factory service manual says the only two options are 3.55s and 3.90s. The numbers I read off the ring gear are [12 1994 DANA D 39287 P4L350 46 13 73], can any one decipher these for me? I think it is a 9 1/4" rear from the service manuals description. I would greatly appreciate any info on this as the first snow fell this morning and I need to make a decision soon. This is the 93 in my sig, thanks.
The ring gear was fine but the pinion gear has a 1" chunk and two teeth taken out of it. I found the pieces in the puddle of oil that is under the ring gear in the case.So with this I need to make a decision that I would like some help with.
Do I rebuild it or is there an upgrade? It is a duel rear wheel and 4x4, however my info from there is minimal. I thought it had 3.53s in it, but my factory service manual says the only two options are 3.55s and 3.90s. The numbers I read off the ring gear are [12 1994 DANA D 39287 P4L350 46 13 73], can any one decipher these for me? I think it is a 9 1/4" rear from the service manuals description. I would greatly appreciate any info on this as the first snow fell this morning and I need to make a decision soon. This is the 93 in my sig, thanks.
It's a Dana 70 with 3.54's. I would look for a junkyard Dana 80 out of a 2nd gen. Should be able to score a complete one with good gears and brakes for around $500. That will get you a stronger axle and outboard drums so you don't have to pull the hubs every time you want to look at the brakes.
I'm going to guess you are talking about your 1993 W-350. The manual you are refering to has to be wrong or for something else. There were as for as I know were two options for the 1993 trucks, that being the 410:1 and the
354:1. There could be some special exceptions, like for the US government.
But if you divide the ring gear number be the pinion number
(46/13)=3:5384 or 3.54
354:1. There could be some special exceptions, like for the US government.
But if you divide the ring gear number be the pinion number
(46/13)=3:5384 or 3.54
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From: North Haven,CT "Living in occupied teritory" & Barton,VT
OK, I am glad you said this! A friend of mine just told me there is a 97 or 99 3500 diesel that was one of the cash for clunker deals at one of my local junk yards. What do I have to do to make this work? Does it bolt right up, does the RWAL sensor still work, will my rims and tires work, should I get both front and rear for a match, are the drive shaft universals the same.................... My situation with the truck is, its at a friends garage (business) 275miles away. He is in rural northern VT with minimal places to get parts so I am trying to go up with everything I need to complete the job. Thanks again!
It's a Dana 70 with 3.54's. I would look for a junkyard Dana 80 out of a 2nd gen. Should be able to score a complete one with good gears and brakes for around $500. That will get you a stronger axle and outboard drums so you don't have to pull the hubs every time you want to look at the brakes.
It's a Dana 70 with 3.54's. I would look for a junkyard Dana 80 out of a 2nd gen. Should be able to score a complete one with good gears and brakes for around $500. That will get you a stronger axle and outboard drums so you don't have to pull the hubs every time you want to look at the brakes.
Considering I am more than likely in the same situation
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You are correct. In my hast for information I was on the 8 3/4 and 9 1/4 section (page 3-27). The Dana 60 came with 4.10 & 4.56 gears. The 70 came with 3.07, 3.54, 4.10, and 4.56 (page3-50).
Sorry for the bad info.
Sorry for the bad info.
I'm going to guess you are talking about your 1993 W-350. The manual you are refering to has to be wrong or for something else. There were as for as I know were two options for the 1993 trucks, that being the 410:1 and the
354:1. There could be some special exceptions, like for the US government.
But if you divide the ring gear number be the pinion number
(46/13)=3:5384 or 3.54
354:1. There could be some special exceptions, like for the US government.
But if you divide the ring gear number be the pinion number
(46/13)=3:5384 or 3.54
If youcan do without the truck till you find a dana 80 go that route. I just had to have my rear done, looked for week for an 80, had to have the truck for work and just had the 70 done. If you can do fab work, it would be fairly easy.
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From: North Haven,CT "Living in occupied teritory" & Barton,VT
I think I know where an 80 is, do you know what fab work there is? Will my rims work and that RWAL sensor? 

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The spring perches are the same width 43 1/2 I believe is the measurement, you will have to shorten your driveshaft an inch and a half and you will have to fab up some shock mounts I just used some 2x2x1/4 angle iron and bolted it to the bottom of the U-bolts.. You will also need new u-bolts now is a good time to upgrade to 5/8. Dont worry about the rwal
Be sure to snag the spring plates from the 80 also. the 80 has 4" axle tubes whereas the 70 has 3 1/2 inch tubes, also if you can keep all the brake lines attatched to the 80 also this will make you life a lot easier when you go to swap, I used everything off the 80 even the rubber line that drops down from the frame
Heres some pics of my swap for ya


Be sure to snag the spring plates from the 80 also. the 80 has 4" axle tubes whereas the 70 has 3 1/2 inch tubes, also if you can keep all the brake lines attatched to the 80 also this will make you life a lot easier when you go to swap, I used everything off the 80 even the rubber line that drops down from the frame
Heres some pics of my swap for ya


I had the same thing happen to my truck out of nowhere. I cut off the ABS ring and cleaned everything and put it back together missing a tooth off the ring gear. Ended up blowing it up all the way passing a tour bus up a grade after I was tired of doing 45.
ticktickticktickPINGticktickticktickPING
Hello dana 80
ticktickticktickPINGticktickticktickPING
Hello dana 80
The driveshaft needs to be shorten an inch and 3/4. If you find one that has disc brakes, that would a real plus. Lke Wanna said, it is a big improvement on the drum brakes not having to pull the hubs off to do brake repair.




