I have looked at the various threads in "the sticky," but I am still not sure what is required. Do you have to remove the axle to remove the rear drum? I really just want to check my rear wheel cylinders to see if they are leaking, but do not necessarirly want to remove everything. I have not yet even attempted to look at these things, maybe it will be more obvious when i get the wheels pulled off.

 

Yes, the axle shaft has to come out to get the hub/drum assembly off the truck. The only special tool you need is a 2 9/16" rounded hex socket for the hub lock nut.

It is a pain in the hindquarters to check the rear brakes on these things.

 

Amen to that! When I had to do my rears, the shoes had worn a huge groove into the drum. Even with retracting the adjuster screw as far as it would go, I still spent hours trying to get the drum to slide over the shoes. I also spent hours cursing the engineers that didn't put rear disc on these trucks. I bought my truck with the brakes in this condition but I will never let them get that bad again!

 

Heh, I just got in from rotating tires and adjusting the rears. They were so far out I had to pull the drum to remember which way the starwheel went Sadly, I'm in search of a speedie-sleeve for my passenger side spindle--this it the 3rd wheel seal that has sprung a leak, even after polishing the spindle..oh well

 

G,
Those Chicago Rawhide Spedi Sleeve's are a God Send

 

Thanks all. Well, that is a pain... By the looks of things I have a cylinder on the passenger side rear that might be leaking. It sounds like I am off to the hardware store this week to get that socket. I suppose it is only available in 3/4" drive too. Is that socket something I can pick up at a hardware store, or do I need to go to an automotive place (NAPA, etc...)?

 

I got mine at NAPA, I'm not sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't get it at the hardware store. I do think most of the big name tool companies make one too, but the one I got at NAPA works fine. Good Luck, It isn't as bad as it seems (normally).

 

Maybe a truck supply place. I always see those big sockets there. In my experience the truck supply places mark up less than the automotive suppliers. Yes, they are 3/4" drive.

JP.

 

Truck shops have them. They are 1/2" drive sheetmetal sockets.

 

Alright, this is on the agenda for this weekend. I am too nervous to drive the truck with the brakes being questionable, and this is my hunting rig, so it is time to fix it now. That said, does anyone have the factory service manual that details the brake system repair? I am pretty handy, but I have never dove into the brakes on any of my rides. I figure it is time to learn. I guess what I really need to see is the full procedure so I know what parts to get, and the torque specs/preload specs of the various nuts and bolts. Also, what is, or is there a trick to bleeding? A see various tools available to help bleed brakes, but it was my impression that with two people it is fairly easy.

 

You need this tool for the hold down springs. It can be done with pliers or vise grips, but it really sucks.

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=2241

The only thing you really need a torque spec other than "good n' tight" for is the hub nut, the procedure for that is in the "tech facts" section of this site.

Bleeding brakes is easy with two people. Start at the furthest wheel from the master. The bleeder yells "pump it up". The pumper pumps the pedal a couple times, then the bleeder yells "hold it down". The pumper applies pressure to the pedal and holds it (without pushing down further or releasing until told to do so). The bleeder opens the bleed screw, then closes it. The cycle repeats until the fluid comes out with no bubbles. Then it's on to the next wheel.

 

Thanks. So just good and tight for the hub nut is good enough, that works for me.

 

No, good and tight for everything EXCEPT the hub nut! Use the procedure in the tech facts section.

 

While you have the drums off you might want to cut a slot in your backing plates so you can check your brake lining without pulling the drums.

 

All the more reason to buy a second gen