I have the 12vdc wire ran to, and tapped into the fuse panel at the pwr window fuse. I'm tapped into this fuse with a fuse tap.

I was thinking of running a 12vdc wire to the battery. I think I will do this, and see. If it cures the problem, could I put an on/off switch on it, and leave it that way?

Thanks Guys, Tony

 

That should work, but who knows with the common automobile wiring.

Personally, I'd hold off on using a switch and first sort out whether the gauge is defective.

 

I think your right. I hope the gauge isn't defective. I just bought it in Nov. 07
I hope it last longer than two months.

Thanks, Tony

 

Well I've ran a ground directly to the neg. batt. terminal, and I have ran a hot wire directly to the pos. batt. terminal. Result- the same as before.

When I have the lights on the needle bounces all over the place. So is it a defective gauge?

Thanks, Tony

 

My Z-series gauge started doing the same thing yours is about three months ago and it finally quit doing anything last week. I called the Autometer service line and they tell me it is a defective probe, and it better had be if I spend the 50+ George Washingtons on a new probe and the guage is the problem.

 

So I take iy the probe is not under warranty?

Tony

 

I don't know. I installed mine about 18 months ago, and I am really disappointed if that is all the longer a Autometer probe lasts. If I was you I would call their service line and see what satisfaction you get that way.

 

I will call their service line. However after some thining about your first post. How can an erractic needle be the probe? It bounces when I turn on the headlights also! I think the gauge is defective

Thanks, Tony

 

Good point. Have you checked your chassis to cab ground?? An easy way to ground the cab is to hook one side of a set of jumper cables from the neg. side of the battery then to the door striker. Just another idea...

 

I have been working on the new ground, just in case something is not just right. I think it has to be a ground problem, because even when I press the brake pedal, or just turn on the headlights the gauge start bouncing.

Thanks, Tony

 

If I remember correctly, where the main engine cable connects to the negative battery terminal, there should be a wire that connects to the body of the truck, on the radiator frame, just above the headlight. It's not very big, black in color.

That is the body ground for what it's worth.

 

BC847, that is where I ran the new ground. There was another wire there also. No dice, still bouncing around so I ran the ground wire directly to the neg. batt. terminal, and now it is running fine.

Thanks guys I'll keep you posted, Tony

 

Mine has been doing that since I got it, I have tried everything I could think of and it didn't help. I did find my problem though, it is a bad connection in the gauge itself. It started with me smacking the gauge and the needle flicking then I got to messing with the wires in the back and it help then it got to the point where I figured out if I stuck my finger in the back of the guage and pressed on a certain wire connection it fixed it. Now I don't know what wire it is to be exact since I just feel around with my pinky while driving but I know if I wiggle the wire and press on where it connects inside the back of the gauge it fixes it. I figure if I just take the guage apart and solder the wire it should be okay, but it's been two years and I still haven't gotten around to it! This probably would be harder to do for some guys depending on where your gauges are mounted and what they're mounted in, but hopefully it gives you a place to start. I have to say that the problems I have had with my autometer gauges in my 1st gen and for what they cost, I may look into another brand when getting gauges for my 01.


Chris

 

What to me was so strange was it has worked fine since Nov. 07! It just started bouncing this week.

I have had a ground problem with this truck before. Once every gauge in the truck would bounce. So somewhere there must something not just exactly right with the wiring.

When I ran the new ground yesterday I connected it with another small wire that BC847 talked about. It wasn't until I ran a ground directly to the neg. batt. terminal that the problem stopped. How a two inch distance makes a difference I'll never know, but it did. I hope I have no more problems.

Later, Tony

 

You said you initially connected the gauge temp ground to the screw up there on the radiator frame?

You said there's another wire there with it?






Now, with the temp ground run directly to the battery negative post, things are now correct?


........... see where this is pointing?





If that's the case, your body ground wire is defective. Run a new HEAVY gauge wire from that screw to the battery and all should be well. It may even correct other electrical problems.