thumbs

Ok I understand that boosting the pump will put a certain amount of strain on er. What would be the advantage of goin at it another way and changin out the injectors and leaving the pump alone. I realize it's the cost but what are the good and bad sides of boosting power that way? Is the stock pump able to handle the flow of say POD's? If I had to boost the pump after the injectors would there be less strain on the pump with the larger injectors? I guess what I am sayin is pumps ain't cheap. How many of these things really fail. I called Cummins and Banks power and both of them said boost the pump. I asked about over stressing the pump and they really didn't think it was a major problem. Of course you guy's are in the real world and have hands on exp.<br><br>

furious70

If you follow the 'accepted' guidelines and don't turn the pump up more than 2 turns, I don't think you really need to worry about anything. My uncle's truck has been turned up 1 turn or better for most of it's 585,000mi, and we don't know if the injection pump has ever been changed out.<br>If you do leave the pump alone and go with more injector, the pump will last longer, but you'll most likely have more fuel at idle and 'easy' driving than you need, leading to a light haze of smoke.<br>If you're just trying to add some pep, step the timing up on the pump, give it a full turn, and follow the directions for setting the AFC and you'll notice a big difference

thumbs

Thanks<br><br>Yeah, I am goin to get the pyro and boost guages in in the morning. Or sometime tomorrow. Next step to get the pump bumped up a bit. I'll run the guages for a while before I bump the pump to get a baseling before the pump and the turbo housing. I would like to get the nuts off the studs for the turbo to manifold but they are tight as the devil. Any ideas as to getting em loose? I soaked em in PB Blaster for a couple of days but they are still to tight to break loose.

PumpDaddy

Hey Thumbs, my 92 was only doing 15-16 psi boost at wot, finally got the gonnads to take off the crimped thing on the fuel screw, now have 19-21 psi boost, only 1 turn, I THINK, also turned the smoke screw for better low end. I did notice today while coming home, 600 mile drive, and a LOT of drivers who don't know what the left lane is for, that at times I would only have 17-18 psi boost, but truck was nailed and running a little over 95 mph, ISSPRO tach ain't worth a crap, so I can't tell you rpms on motor, it's got a mind of it's own, idles at 2500 then 3000, then 700, and ONLY when it chooses too. Nailed start, from a redlight will set you back in the seat, but top end needs some work, I was thinking of new injectors today, but gotta figure a way to get them past the bean counter. . ANYBODY got ideas as for 200 or 225 GOOD injectors????

thumbs

PumpDaddy<br><br>I feel your pain with the guy's in the left lane. Drives me nuts. I am beginning to notice now they hang in the left lane and then cross three or four lanes of traffic to get the the exit they have probably been usin for years. <br><br>I gotta get more power in the old girl. I am pullin a 12k fifth wheel and in the mountains it's imbarrising. Can't get out of the truck lane up hill. Puttin in boost and pyro in the morning. I'll run er to get a base line for a while then go to the bumped pump then a turbo housing. May go with injectors later but for now I need pullin power.

AlK

Thumbs,
You are on the right track starting with gauges.
Before any modifications (completely stock) the dyno results for my 92 LE 5spd, 4x4, reg cab are:-
Max HP 157.1 @ 2480 rpm
Max TQ 362.6 @ 2000 rpm

After slight bombing:
185 Bosch injectors
16 cm2 turbo housing
set injection pump @ 1.4 by Piers (PDR)
set rpm max to 2900 by Piers (PDR)

Still have the original exhaust, air intake and power screw has not been tampered with.

dyno results are:

Max HP 220.2 @ 2780 rpm
Max TQ 478.9 @ 1880 rpm

I now have a PDR HX-35 and am thinking of upgrading injectors, changing exhaust system, air intake and turning the power screw which should put me close to the 300 hp. ;D
---
Al

thumbs

Al<br><br>That's great results for sure. I'm a bit lean on cash for the injectors but plan to bump the pump after I get the gauges in and run a while to get a base line. I would like to change to a 16 but those stud nuts are tight as the devel. I sure don't want to break one.

PumpDaddy

Thumbs, If you own a torch, you may try heating up each nut until it's cherry red, DON'T melt it, just good and glowing, let the glow go away, and then try to take the nuts off. Most likely the whole stud will back out, to make sure the stud comes out, heat the place where each one screwed into the housing, just make sure you DON'T make the cast iron glow. We get alot of pumps that look like the came from a rust farm, a little heat works wonders, and to stop the rust, install stainless steel studs and nut, just put some never seize on them before installing, Molykote GN paste works good. As far as the Idiots in the left lane, down here, most of us say that this is our best EXPORT product , but maybe next time on the interstate, I should just saddle up the horse, strap on a couple of six shooters, ride him down the road, while momma drives the truck, and DARE someone to pass us, maybe then IDIOTS would know how it feels, or better yet, put the horse in the bed and boogie at 70 MPH, and teach him to raise his tale and GO, WHATTA mess that would be . If you need S/S studs and nuts, let me know, we've got gobs of them at the shop, no charge

thumbs

Thanks for the info and help again. I got the nuts off without to much problem and got the gauges in today. I am troubled by by boost gauge though. Empty on a up grade nailed in third I can only get 10 lbs of boost. Seems real low to me. Is this in the normal range for a stock 92? Normaly I get no boost while driveing. I only drove it a little after the gauges were in to see if everything was workin so I don't have to much info. Seems the boost starts at about 1600 rpm. I don't get any boost on a flat at 55.

Farmall

I would double check your compression fittings and the fitting into the block. Did you use any teflon tape? Sounds to me as you have a leak somewhere. You should have at least a couple pounds of boost at 55. I run 4-6 empty on flat ground at 55-65. I can make 23 psi of boost out of my stock turbo with 21.5 cm2 on my 92. After you check for leaks and it still does it, I would think you have a bad gauge.<br><br>Bill

thumbs

I was thinkin about this last night. I put tape on both male fittings. Both the one that goes into the gauge and the block in both places. I think where the compression fitting is I should have left the teflon off. I'm gonna try it in a few minutes and see what happens.

Farmall

I think you will find your problem with the teflon tape on the compression fitting. Bill

thumbs

Sure hope so. Thanks

thumbs

Well I just checked it out. Nothin. I ran it to the gove in third and fourth on a incline I could make 10 lbs but when the gov kicked in she went to zero. The boost does come on at 1500 rpm but it just won't make much. I think I will get new compression fittings and try agian. I will also check the clamps on the intercooler side. This very well may be a bit part of my no power problem.

Alec

If I understand correctly, you just installed a pre-turbo pyro, and you have a tachometer. Boost is roughly a function of RPM's and exhaust temps, so when you are making your max boost runs, you should also look at what your EGT's and RPM's are. And stay on the road . . . That way you can tell if you think it is a fuel problem or an intake problem: If you aren't giving her the fuel, she won't make the boost!

Good luck figuring it out,

Alec