pulled Injection Pump to reseal, now no start
will I need to pull the pump again or is that just a sealing area to check pump timing? I would love to just pull the injector lines and not the pump haha. I have gotten good at pulling it though, unfortunately.
edit: looks like I could just pull that small bolt and replace the o-ring correct?
edit: looks like I could just pull that small bolt and replace the o-ring correct?
yes, you should be able to just remove the bolt and replace the o-ring. not sure if the high pressure lines will be in your way or not but a 1/4 drive ratchet and extensions (smallest diameter shaft) might get you in there easily.
You're correct. I looked and saw nothing but the threads and the top of the piston (that's what it's called right?) so I put a new copper washer in, tightened it down and guess what.
NO MORE LEAKS. for now I guess haha
now I just have to fix my boost gauge line since I broke the silly plastic line and she'll be good to go.
Side note for all of you people who turned the pumps up: The idle was too high so I re-indexed the throttle lever so that the idle would be where it should be. That is the correct way to do it right?
I know before I had adjusted the throttle index but I don't think I that the fuel screw was in as far. Maybe I'm just rambling but I think I did it correctly, just can't test it out because my backyard is a mud pit right now and 2wd cummins trucks sink right down in it.
NO MORE LEAKS. for now I guess haha
now I just have to fix my boost gauge line since I broke the silly plastic line and she'll be good to go.
Side note for all of you people who turned the pumps up: The idle was too high so I re-indexed the throttle lever so that the idle would be where it should be. That is the correct way to do it right?
I know before I had adjusted the throttle index but I don't think I that the fuel screw was in as far. Maybe I'm just rambling but I think I did it correctly, just can't test it out because my backyard is a mud pit right now and 2wd cummins trucks sink right down in it.
i did this once and i pulled the collar off the shaft inside the pump,but i put the collar on backwards from what it was i didnt know it, but the truck would not start. all i did was take it back apart and turn the collar around the right way and it started. also make sure that that the little pin on the roter head is lined up with the keyway, or it wont work either
ok it still has no leaks! but the truck won't push but about 15 psi and then it drops off. this is at wide open throttle.
I'm not sure of the original position of the fuel screw, do yall think I need to turn it in some more? Not getting enough fuel? opinions are welcome
I'm not sure of the original position of the fuel screw, do yall think I need to turn it in some more? Not getting enough fuel? opinions are welcome
I think I have a boost leak. the rear injector line hold down bolt stripped out so that's where I think my problem is coming from. Saw in another thread that another guy had the same problem except his was completely out of the hole.
What does everybody think?
What does everybody think?
I have it turned in enough to need to re-index the throttle lever already. more? 
edit: the fuel screw is now 1/2 turn away from hanging when revved. Boost is still dropping off after building. It used to build and stay at around 25psi, now it will barely hit 13-15. I checked for boost leaks by spraying soapy water at the intake/grid heater bolts thinking that may have been the problem, no bubbles when revving.
The only thing that I changed other than pulling the pump apart was a 1/8" timing bump and also the dennyT fuel pin.
2nd edit: egt's are only getting to 1000 degrees or so occasionally when I stomp it. More like 600-800. before doing the pump, etc. it'd hit right around 1200

edit: the fuel screw is now 1/2 turn away from hanging when revved. Boost is still dropping off after building. It used to build and stay at around 25psi, now it will barely hit 13-15. I checked for boost leaks by spraying soapy water at the intake/grid heater bolts thinking that may have been the problem, no bubbles when revving.
The only thing that I changed other than pulling the pump apart was a 1/8" timing bump and also the dennyT fuel pin.
2nd edit: egt's are only getting to 1000 degrees or so occasionally when I stomp it. More like 600-800. before doing the pump, etc. it'd hit right around 1200
Did you get your power problem solved? On one of my pumps, one of the small springs that holds the fulcrum assembly tight fell out. Went from 50+ psi to about 20 psi. One way to make sure is pull the pump top and see if fulcrum assembly is loose. If it is it means at least one of the springs is missing.
Did you get your power problem solved? On one of my pumps, one of the small springs that holds the fulcrum assembly tight fell out. Went from 50+ psi to about 20 psi. One way to make sure is pull the pump top and see if fulcrum assembly is loose. If it is it means at least one of the springs is missing.
Just found out that part of what I said is not true, the part that the governor spring connects to should be loose. If you shine a light behind it you should be able to see if one of the springs is missing.





