Problems.
Problems.
So as I mentioned in an earlyer post after the new pump it has trouble starting.When I first start it in the morning I have to grind on it for awhile.
.After that It starts pretty good every time.But I'm also seeing white smoke..What should I do? I dont have a shop,Heck I dont even have a garage.So I need to figure this out.Thanks in advance.Ezra.
.After that It starts pretty good every time.But I'm also seeing white smoke..What should I do? I dont have a shop,Heck I dont even have a garage.So I need to figure this out.Thanks in advance.Ezra.
Have you tried feeding the injector pump directly from a can of diesel to eliminate the possibility of air entering the fuel system? It sounds like it's sucking air in someplace. Have you had the filter or any of the lines off recently? If so thats a good place to start.
Did the problem start when you changed the filter? Sometimes the fuel heater above the filter will loosen up. Did you use the bleed screw on the banjo fitting? If so make sure it's tight. To feed the IP directly disconnect the fuel inlet line at the injector pump, put a fitting in that will take a rubber fuel line (sorry do not know the size offhand) and hook it to a gas tank of some kind fill with fuel and see if it starts better. You might also want to check and make sure the wire on the fuel shutoff solenoid is clean and tight but with the white smoke I suspect it's air in the fuel.
Fuel-fitting male thread size at both sides of filter-head and injector-pump inlet is 12mmx1.5.
At top of lift-pump is 14mmx1.5.
At bottom/intake of lift-pump is plain old 1/4-NPT.
If you rig up a test hose straight into the injection-pump, make sure the fuel jug and fuel are STERILE.
The air leak could possibly be at the fuel-heater seal; but, I have had one POUR fuel down the sides of the filter for days and the engine showed no symptoms of it, starting at the touch of the key and no evidence of an air leak; of course, this was with a piston-lift-pump pushing 15+ PSI; a diaphragm-pump might not have enough oomph to over-pressure an air-leak at the same point.
The first place I would connect a test hose/jug is at the inlet of the lift-pump; this will eliminate the rusty hard-lines from there to the tank.
Don't expect it to immediately eliminate the problem, as air may still be present upstream that will need be purged.
Does it always start hard, or only after sitting a long spell ??
At top of lift-pump is 14mmx1.5.
At bottom/intake of lift-pump is plain old 1/4-NPT.
If you rig up a test hose straight into the injection-pump, make sure the fuel jug and fuel are STERILE.
The air leak could possibly be at the fuel-heater seal; but, I have had one POUR fuel down the sides of the filter for days and the engine showed no symptoms of it, starting at the touch of the key and no evidence of an air leak; of course, this was with a piston-lift-pump pushing 15+ PSI; a diaphragm-pump might not have enough oomph to over-pressure an air-leak at the same point.
The first place I would connect a test hose/jug is at the inlet of the lift-pump; this will eliminate the rusty hard-lines from there to the tank.
Don't expect it to immediately eliminate the problem, as air may still be present upstream that will need be purged.
Does it always start hard, or only after sitting a long spell ??
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Sounds to me like you have an air leak.
What I would do is pressurize the fuel tank with shop air and using a rag to block off the gap from the nozzle. Inspect all the fuel line connections and hoses after/while (two person job).
If you have an air leak it will become present with fuel coming out.
HTH
Glenn
What I would do is pressurize the fuel tank with shop air and using a rag to block off the gap from the nozzle. Inspect all the fuel line connections and hoses after/while (two person job).
If you have an air leak it will become present with fuel coming out.
HTH
Glenn
Be VERY CAREFUL putting air-pressure into a fuel tank, unless you don't like the way it is shaped and want it to bulge more.
Use a good regulator on the air-line set to 5-PSI maximum.
In the absence of an air-compressor, now would be a good time to invest in one, or for this test, get yourself the biggest portable air-tank you can afford and rig it up with one of those coiled hoses and a quik-coupled pressure-regulator.
Use a good regulator on the air-line set to 5-PSI maximum.
In the absence of an air-compressor, now would be a good time to invest in one, or for this test, get yourself the biggest portable air-tank you can afford and rig it up with one of those coiled hoses and a quik-coupled pressure-regulator.
Ok so I pressurized the tank as mentioned.Didnt noticed a leak anywhere.so i opened the bleed screw and pumped the lift pump tell fuel came out.then tightned it back up and it fired up pretty fast,alot faster than it had.So I will report what happens tommorow.Also there was a little oil sitting around the injectors,where would that be coming from the valve covers? Ezra
Ok when I started it this moring same thing,took awhile the little cloud of white smoke.pressure Washed motor with engine brite then drove it and only "leak" I saw was a little oil around the 2 middle injectors.Could that be causing it?
I would call the pump shop that you got it from. Did they rebuild your pump or send you a different one? I would never want an exchange be it injection pump or Getrag tranny. You have no idea how the pump was treated previously and of course with both pumps, you don't know if they did a complete 'rebuild' or just a 'reseal'. At least if you get your pump resealed, you know the history or it.
I would call the pump shop that you got it from. Did they rebuild your pump or send you a different one? I would never want an exchange be it injection pump or Getrag tranny. You have no idea how the pump was treated previously and of course with both pumps, you don't know if they did a complete 'rebuild' or just a 'reseal'. At least if you get your pump resealed, you know the history or it.







