So my overdrive had pretty much never worked since i bought the truck. It would kick in at about 45 mph then as soon as i would move the accelerator pedal it would kick back out. Then it got to the point where it wouldn't kick in at all. It sounded like a typical tps problem so i preformed the "POT fix." Still no overdrive
I checked the kickdown cable and not fully understanding that thing. Mine moves freely without flipping the tab up. Is it supposed to that? The tranny was rebuilt right before I bought the truck, and it feels like it slips alot, which makes me think kickdown cable.
Thanks Cory

 

have you checked the conductor polarity at the tps harness?

have ya dialed in the correct position on the pot?

 

Have not checked the conductor polarity at the tps. Not sure what to do there. And have not dialed the pot because it won't go into OD no matter what position the *** is in.

 

Mine was doing something like that a while ago. I removed the pan and inspected the solenoid. Did not find anything wrong but I also blew compressed air through it. Not full blast. Replaced the filter and seems ok now.

 

use my last post to check your set up on the leads...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=188302&page=2


you may not have the same conductor color, but your set up should match.

 

My potentiometer setup seems to be fine. I think it is something else, just finding out what that is seems to be the problem. I keep wanting to say the kickdown cable because of a thread Dean Snow started a while back said it made his tranny slip a lot. I think I have also read it can effect your OD. Thats why I think that could be the culprit. When I try to adjust it I don't think it moves forward far enough. So maybe i need to take it to a tranny shop or just sell it, and go back to a 2nd gen.
Thanks for any help Cory

 

Well, did you do like Clinton and not "inhale"?

Sorry, I just couldn't resist......

 

This is exactly the reason why I am posting on the forum this evening because over the weekend I too did my POT install on my truck. Got the 5K linear taper potentiometer, complimentary ****, and even the pin connectors (ideal for computer interfacing work) at my local RadioShack. I made my own small 3 wire bundle wire harness and solded each individual pin to each wire end. Also soldered the three connections at the POT itself and I doubt I have any breaks or an open connection in it at all. I got to "test install" the wire harness under the hood and through a suitable place in the firewall so I could at least have access to the potentiometer **** to turn it if I should need to. When it was secure enough not to rub on anything or get caught on something I took the truck for a test drive and it didn't work. Just like Cory no matter where I turn the POT shaft it still doesn't work. The only thing I can think of is before I installed the POT in the truck I had to hand cut the extra long shaft of the POT and maybe I internally messed up its components?? Now I wish I would have just installed the POT before I cut the shaft because it may have ended up working. I cut it with a hacksaw and did it carefully to not suddenly jar it one way or the other. I gotta almost say I doubt I affected its condition by cutting the shaft the way I did. Is it possible the O/D solenoid on the trans is caput?? I never really did check components under the trans real well, but I do know the wiring to it is in good shape with nothing cut or anything. I was real excited this weekend when I got done the wiring, soldering, and install of the POT but after it ended up not working it was disappointing. Any good advice for someone having the same problem? Thanks.

Salvy

 

Check your connections, particularly the little pins.. it took me three tries to get a good solder connection on those, and the POT didnt work correctly until I did..

I also cut-off the POT shaft and it didnt hurt it any.

IF the connection a the TPS harness under the hood is loose or intermittant, you will have teh symptoms you guys are describing.( from my personel experience)

 

I'm no professional at soldering but I guess as long as the pins can't be pulled apart from the wire you have a good connection?

 

well I would think so too, but mine couldnt be pulled off, and OD wold cut out like you guys are describing.. If I jiggled the TPS harness and pins, it would work until the "new connector" got moved again. Finaly had a friend who does computer work resolder them for me and no more problems..
I also learned that if the female socket that the pins go into has been "opened" too much the pin doesnt sit tight in there and may cause an intemitant connection.
My buddy "tightened" mine by pulling the side in with a dental pick.

 

OK. I'll try to resolder it a time or two, and if that doesn't work I'll clip the plug off and wire it direct. Thanks for the input!!
Cory