Things I learned:
1. There are two different outer hoses for the 4,500lb axle
2. Napa gave me the wrong set
3. The Napa warehouse here doesn't stock the right one.
4. The dealer says they are obsolete and have no updated part
5. It cost nearly $40 to have Plant Equipment Company fix my hose
6. They cost $11.55 new from Rock Auto
RAYBESTOS
BH38050
RAYBESTOS
BH38049
7. I will pay almost anything to have my truck available on a weekend.
8. I will have an old spare, and a repaired spare after I replace them with the Rock Auto ones.


Unrelated thing, if you pound out your studs to replace the rotors, smear a little anti-seize on them before you pound them into the new rotors and hub.
Important, torque the lung nuts to spec, and check them every day for a few days. It is hard to get the new studs to seat all the way first crack.

 

BOTH of my dodges I've owned had the hoses with the little metal plate on the side that mounts to the axle housing. They're pinned on one side, and opposite, so left and right don't interchange. The local parts stores carry both of them, so for me, it was no biggie.. Autozone or Advanced sells them for about $15 each, so having a spare pair around won't break the bank.

Years ago, I was told to always replace the studs, ....especially if they've been overtorqued at any time in their existence. If they were put in by you, previously, and have never been overtorqued to your knowledge, you can reuse them without much worry. as long as you didn't beat the daylights out of them getting them out. Hit it on a slightly off angle, and they can bend ever so slightly.

You really should use a press.. Studs, although heat treated to withstand many more uses than bolts that "stretch", like head bolts and U bolts on your suspension, which should always be replaced. IMO, if they're old, and have been on the truck for the last 20 years, you know some pineapple had previously used an air gun and overtorqued them.... I'd replace them just for the safety factor. Even if they're $3 each, you're still talking $50 per axle to prevent future failure.

Interesting read, BTW.

https://www.fastenal.com/web/en/77/reuse-of-fasteners

You can damage the threads by using a nut to draw them in or hammering them out. My experience is that if you're just going to pound them in, they never seat properly. hence the press.

20 ton press cost me $75 used through CL. New ones at HF are about $200. You won't believe the number of things you will find that a stationary press will help you out with..

 

I use a brass hammer (HF) to pound them out, and a brass drift and hammer to pound them back in. That way I don't damage them. The factory lugs are a lot harder then the replacement ones by the way.
I will but a press one of these days.

 

Well, in the meantime, you can swing by and use mine anytime u wish. Its on the side of the garage. Ya cant miss it....

 

I snapped one off torqueing to 200 ft/lbs today.
Replacing them is good advice.

 

A w250 has 1/2 x 20 studs that are torqued to 90 ft lbs. Why 200?

 

How many have watched gas station jockeys shear off the studs on the passenger side of a vintage Mopar not knowing they were left hand thread?

I watched a kid at a gas station snap off all 5 of the lugs with an impact wrench on a 70's Duster before he stopped.

 

He must have thought that the L stamped on the end of the lug meant loser, so he was gonna show it who was a loser. ...Mark

 

I bought a new set of Cragar mags for my 1970 440 powered Challenger 17 years ago at the local "tire warehouse" .
I was having the tire shop mount the new tire and rims.

The guy came out and said my passenger lugs where ALL frozen up.

I wanted to punch him in the pie hole.

L must stand for LOSER...

When I saw the impact socket marks ALL over the NEW rims I wanted to go find his pie hole again.

I have never been back there...

 

From the FSM:

 

Whoa, not saying it isn't in there, but no way would I torque them to 200 Lb/Ft.

From my 97 FSM.



As for the LH studs, never had a shop do it, but there was that one night where we had been drinking rather excessively........

 

That 135 lb lb is for 9/16 studs as well

Don't have a picture but 95-105 seems a standard torque for 1/2-20 studs

I've had a couple of FSMs over the years with pretty big mistakes...like this...mostly on torque values

 

Well, if you're showing your FSM, I'm showing mine....

Every truck I've ever owned had a 90-135 Ft LB torque spec, unless they were with Alum wheels, which ran from 76 to 83 Ft lbs.

My wife's corvette that she had was the only alum rimmed vehicle I had that specified a 100 ft lb torque.

Torque specs are based upon fastener or lug size (diameter), and 200 ft lbs is way over the spec for any 1/2" fastener, as far as I know..... but what do I know ? I haven't slept in a holiday inn express lately, so I guess I'm really not qualified to say much of anything anymore.


But... it is in black and white, or I saw it on the internet, so it must be true..



BTW,

Here's a chart to give you an idea of what GR8 fasteners usually take for their torque, although I do realize that studs are treated somewhat differently because of their inherent strength.
http://www.engineersedge.com/torque_table_sae_ftlbs.htm

 

Yup, definitely a typo, all the generic torque charts show much lower values than 200. At least it is easy to get the broken lug out...Mark

 

I used to torque them to 100, but it only takes one time of watching your front wheel pass you on the freeway to make you adhere to the FSM.