You may be able to smell the wood burning on this one. I have a problem with over-heating, once in a while. It needs to be about 100 out and there needs to be one of those nice prairie cross winds. I am towing a 26 foot fifth wheel and my engine temps start to climb. I AM going to switch to a post 91.5 cross-flow rad ASAP but I was thinking about the collection of Volvo windshield washer tanks and pumps I have just laying around.

How about a starter type button to squirt some washer fluid somewhere into the intake? I know it is crude but could it drop my temps somewhat and maybe improve mpg's which seem to drop when she gets hot and heavy?

Or maybe just have it dribble pure H2O infront of the rad? I am looking for a real cheap way to drop temps.

 

I just am struggling through the adaptation of a gas burner's w/m system. I have read that the old school sled pullers used water/meth in the intake to the turbo. This of course is hard on that hardware. Blade errosion and seal failure. That limits the point of injection to the high pressure side. Any pump that you have that won't get eaten by the alcohol that produces enough pressure above boost to atomize the solution should suffice. Most diesel kits come with a 220 psi alcohol resistant pump. The gasser version like mine peaks at 180 psi. I saw 150 degree F. to 200 degree F reduction in egt's, but I haven't noticed any change in engine temp. To be effective I would need to dump right at a liter a minute into the engine. Stock you may get by at half liter more or less to be effective. At $3.00 a liter for premix or $1.50/liter for home brew it could get expensive quick. I don't intend on using it to tow with unless I get myself into a situation that warrents a sudden burst of power to get out of trouble. it is mostly for play. That my friend is just my 2 cents worth of experience. I've only been playing with this truck two years and w/m one month.

 

This page has pump/nozzles and all other goodies to build your own. Save on the cheap stuff you can pick up at hardware stores.
http://wwrturboinjection.com/html/boost_cooler.html

 

My folks were big travel trailer people when I was growing up... they pulled a 27' TT with a very SB powered '69 Pontiac Catalina. It would overheat on most grades and that's what dad did... worked great!

Plug the end of of the output (cheap vinyl hose), zip-tie it below the rad. tank (directly above the fins) in front and hot melt (ice pick & propane torch) the smallest holes you can make... rocker on the dash to energize the pump...

 

Your Dad's setup sounds perfect for my problem. The tubing idea refines it just right. Thanks for the tip.

As to the other issues, windshield washer fluid is usually sold as a loss leader around here for 1.79 to 1.99 per four litre container. This is half the price of fuel. It is good till 40 below and should be rich enough not to put the fire out on the cummins. I suspect that the washer pump could just overcome typical boost (10 psi for normal running against a wind, 5 to 7 when mother nature co-operates, but the washer pump probably could not atomize properly and a dribble of fluid would not be any good. Even the cost of the cheapest high presure pump is a little too much for now. I do need a cross flow rad and used ones seem unavailable in Alberta. A new one is about 400 bucks. Old style ones start at almost 700 new.

It looks like the water cooled rad is the cheapest way to go.

 

Your benifits would be slim to none, the potential for a problem is a lot more likely. The water doesnt have as much cooling effect in a liquid form plus the water may very well end up in only one or two cylinders, that pretty much insure head gasket failure. in my gallery is a parts list complete with numbers and where get the parts, dont risk damage for a few bucks.

 

This might sound too simple but why could you not use a retired 2.5 gallon loaded stream fire extinguisher (water charged with air pressure)?
They are plentiful and are stainless steel; all that you would need would be a solenoid valve and your plumbing.
If you had onboard air you could fill it to the top using the airspace for the solution.
I use these for many different applications.
Jim

 

A progressive kit is only about 350.00. Its run off a 5V Map sensor, so its simple to hook-up. I dont use one on my truck, but I do on my turbo car. Im running 29 GPM nozzles and it definately lowers intake temps. You can set it to come on at a set level and full on at a nother so it ramps in gradually.

I suppose you can get real cheap and just use a Hobbs switch to activate the system.

 

Mopar2ya:
What is a Map sensor? I have no idea how this relates to my old girl. Explain a bit please.

Jim:
I have an old C02 cylinder from a soft drink outfit.... hmm.

Loch:
I here you. Water meth needs better quality stuff than I can afford- this year. Maybe next year.

Caver Dave:
I like your idea so much I think I will do it. I will set one up to cool the AC condensor. It gets too hot and AC performance is only so so in slow traffic. It is awsome once I get moving. I get outlet temps of minus 5 to 8 degrees sometimes due to propane instead of R12 etc. The secret is to use half as much as if you were using freon.

Thanks guys and keep the tips coming.

 

OK we are trying to cover two topics here. One is water/meth inj, the other is water spray, water spray actualy sprays water on a radiater or intercooler to aid in cooling. The spray actually anything will work it needs little pressure

 

I don't meant to hijack this thread, but I found this when I was looking at different water/meth systems. Is there any reason that it could not work?

http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=Cool150