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Plastic scraping noise from column????

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Old 12-15-2007 | 11:07 AM
  #16  
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Ew. When mine started grinding it would lock up from time to time. I wound up pulling the clock spring so I could drive the truck safely while waiting for the part.
Old 12-15-2007 | 02:44 PM
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Mine doesn't have cruise control, does it still have a clock spring? If it does, where do I get one? Are they that important? My experience with this was a ford that had some plastic bushing of some sort break and it started falling out in pieces it would also get stuck, happened while driving slow on a farm road , put a little muscle to it and it broke whatever was holding it back! OK on 90's ford!

Are there any other plastic bushings or sliders behind there? Would it be only the clock spring? I sounds and feel like it is right where the wheel meets the plastic column?
Old 12-15-2007 | 06:22 PM
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Yes, even if you don't have cruise the clock spring runs the horn. The clock spring is right under the wheel, I would bet money on it being the problem.
Old 12-15-2007 | 09:21 PM
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Thumbs down

Add one more thing to the list! Still wouldn't get rid of my 1st gen though! Even if it was up on blocks!

Where would I go to find a new clock spring?
Old 12-15-2007 | 09:28 PM
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Dealer. You'll pay around $120.
Old 12-15-2007 | 10:09 PM
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Unhappy

HOLY EDIT!!!!!!! There aren't any DIY Alternatives?
Old 12-15-2007 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselcarpenter
HOLY EDIT!!!!!!! There aren't any DIY Alternatives?
I actually repaired one in a '84 Ford Bronco II that a friend of mine had. It was a PITA! We took it apart found the break then cut the bad section out. Very carfully strip back one side of the clock spring wires. We then folded the sections over themselves and VERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRY carefully soldered the ends together. Apply a very thin coat of that liquid electrical tape and let it cool/dry. Once done with that, we re-wound the spring and reinstalled the spring in the colum. It worked but it was a serious pain to do.

BTW, the "84 B-II didn't originally have a clock spring but we had converted the entire drivetrain and asscociated systems out of a '96 mazda B-4000 to work in the "84 body/chassis. (engine, Trans, t-case, axels, abs, steering colum, etc.) That was also a PITA but cool when done, sorta (it was still a "84 Bornco II )
Old 12-15-2007 | 11:08 PM
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When they get crunchy there's really nothing you can do.
Old 12-16-2007 | 12:05 AM
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If I don't care about the horn or am considering going to a foot switch or grab chain would it be a problem to just remove it? or does it serve a function I should care about?

Are they usually worn out? Like say I go to a junk yard and look for a low miles wrecked one? are there any non factory substitutes that might fit?
Old 12-16-2007 | 07:59 AM
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Removing it will disable the self-canceling turn signals. Otherwise no issues, I ran for a couple months that way before I broke down and bought one.
Old 12-16-2007 | 09:23 AM
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i am having the same issue/sound. I have an extra steering column laying around (got it with the truck) would i be able to pull the clock spring from the extra column and still use it?
Old 12-16-2007 | 09:26 AM
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o yea, my horn still works so could it still be the clock spring? No curse control though.
Old 12-16-2007 | 08:49 PM
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I replaced my clockspring a few months ago.
My horn went out recently but the cruise hadn't worked in years.
Now both are working again.

I wonder if I broke mine years ago while putting in a new steering box
by turning the steering shaft without a box connected.

Without a box connected you can turn the wheel past the stops
provided by the steering box
which winds up the spring too far thus breaking it.

There is a sticker on the clockspring that warns you not to rotate
it until installed to prevent this type of breakage.
Old 12-17-2007 | 12:50 AM
  #29  
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Thumbs down

Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Removing it will disable the self-canceling turn signals. Otherwise no issues, I ran for a couple months that way before I broke down and bought one.
Well that might explain why the left side turn signal wont self cancel, but the right still does. Do you think a junk yard unit will be just as busted? Or prone to breaking?

I am going to assume that the OEM replacement Is best. Anybody have a part #? Should any Dodge dealer be able to get it? Any on-line sources?
Old 12-17-2007 | 07:03 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Jim5870
I replaced my clockspring a few months ago.
My horn went out recently but the cruise hadn't worked in years.
Now both are working again.

I wonder if I broke mine years ago while putting in a new steering box
by turning the steering shaft without a box connected.

Without a box connected you can turn the wheel past the stops
provided by the steering box
which winds up the spring too far thus breaking it.

There is a sticker on the clockspring that warns you not to rotate
it until installed to prevent this type of breakage.
That'll do it every time.

Originally Posted by dieselcarpenter
Well that might explain why the left side turn signal wont self cancel, but the right still does. Do you think a junk yard unit will be just as busted? Or prone to breaking?

I am going to assume that the OEM replacement Is best. Anybody have a part #? Should any Dodge dealer be able to get it? Any on-line sources?
If you can find a junkyard that will let you take the clockspring out of the column, and you can find one - that's worth trying if the price is right. Look for Rams, Ramchargers, and Dakotas with the same steering wheel/column/cruise configuration you have. If you don't have tilt or cruise, a Dodge Shadow/Plymouth Sundance will have the same clockspring. Some straight column 2 spoke trucks may have a horn brush unit that looks like a clockspring.

Any Dodge dealer can get it. 3 spoke wheel w/tilt and/or cruise: 56007406, list is $165. 2 spoke wheel w/tilt and/or cruise: 4688655, list is $154. Straight column, no cruise, either wheel: 4688554, list is $65. Straight column, some 2 spoke wheels, horn brush unit: 5274114, list is $13.85.

http://chryslerpartsdirect.com/

They sell parts online at the same price they charge a commercial account like a body shop or an independent garage, not at the "sucker off the street" rate they would charge you if you walked up to the parts counter. There are several other dealers who do the same thing, these guys are out of NJ so they are close to me for low shipping but out of state so no tax. Look around and you'll find someone close to you.


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