mhuppertz... thats what i did before... my pin had a groove in it full length... but i think the mark is from the pin being shot into the fuel cone when the cone went down then the pin would ride on it when as the fuel cone went back up.

 

Seems like it would leak like a sieve... maybe it is and I just don't know it.

 

mines been filling with fuel. it has to be the reason for it.

 

I'm thinking that the fuel pressure inside is pushing the pin out, to the point where it passes the o-ring inside it bore? Since i put my stock pin back in, the leaking has stopped. I also had an idea of making a pin with the similar shape of a forward slash / rather than that of an eclipsed J.

A question; what would happen if you machined the top some to allow the lever to travel closer to the fuel pin? Is there any benefit of allowing the lever to move more? If its even mechanically possible inside?

 

My pin will go farther than the o-ring just by pressing on the lever...

and i think machining the inside of the pump for the lever to go forward would be helpful to a point but the problem is the retainer that secures the o-ring is right where youd need to remove material.



(whats on the end of the allen wrench)
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...J/DSC08792.jpg

 

Fuel pressure doesn't push the AFC pin out. The AFC lever does. The reason for fuel leaking past the AFC pin is the fact that the deeper cut of the aftermarket fuel pin allows the AFC pin to be pushed out further which then allows some fuel to leak past the o-ring that seals it.

 

I'm starting to understand how it works. If there is enough fuel pressure to cause a fuel leak, how is there not enough fuel pressure to push the pin past its physical, supposed movement caused by the afc lever? If JBradley is right, and the AFC lever bottoms out, how is it possible that the afc pushes it further once it hits the physical limit of travel? Is there a second part to the lever that moves inside the bore where the pin resides?

 

did you watch that video where i pull on the lever? you can see/hear how theres some resistance and it can fling (for the lack of a better word) the small pin out.

 

i didnt see thispost until now, i found the same thing by testing/experimenting. i get super quik spool-up- very littke smoke with a ground stock pin, slightly ground afc lever and i ground the top bridge of the lever down. ive only mentioned this to a few but i came to the conclusion a cone cut much deeper than stock was a waste and a leak waiting to happen. putting a longer pin in does nothing to add fuel and not worth the work in my opinion for more control. the afc lever only moves so far. i take nothing away from the guys who sell afc cones (fuels pins.) am glad someone was willing to do stuff for 1st gens. you can get full fuel using/grinding stock parts. save your money i figured this out a couple of years ago. didnt want to stir up anything so i kept it low key.

 

keep in mind it takes very little afc travel to add more fuel. as little as an 1/8 inch can be noticed. with the pump top off holding in your hand you can move the lever and push the cone and feel were it makes contact. again i take nothing away from the vendors selling 'pins", quik easy power. but the same can be gained for free. i like to grind with the top off for gsk install also i found fuel pressure will push pin out.

 

I viewed the video, and the flicking sensation your doing, i do not feel is duplicated by the pump during operation. I understand it is spring loaded and uses the pin to ride on the cone to determine the amount of fuel injected. I just don't see the fuel cone dropping into its bore so fast as to allow the afc lever to create a snap.

 

with boost pressure pushing cone down, if the cone is cut back deeper than lever travel fuel pressure will push the pin out against cone but no more fuel is getting pushed by the pump to injectors. not making a reference to the video.

 

I agree completely with this.

 

yup

 

Well i put it back together... i "adjusted" the starwheel so that the AFC spring will bind at the exact point that the afc pin loses contact with the afc cone. (learned about coil bind back when i was a nascar driver).

to get it to do that i took out the star wheel and turned it upside down. i did that so the spring would be sitting higher while still having enough threads engaged on the starwheel... then i just kept adjusting it until the coils would bind just after the the afc cone became free from the afc pin. here's a picture of how high i had to get it. used loc-tite to keep it from spinning.



it really seemed to help spool up honestly, probably because of the tighter afc spring and less flooding of fuel... in 4th and 5th gear the boost gauge cranks right over to 42psi.

heres a random picture of the soot that was built up in my exhaust after my long road trip... i was checking for runaway in the garage and this made its way onto the floor.