Bushy

I recommend that you keep an eye on the AFC cone/diaphram.
The last thing you need is for the cone assembly to move enough and let the guide pin pop out of the hole, which in turn will end up causing fuel to enter the AFC chamber.
I had this happen to me.... I had my starwheel up so tight that the AFC cone was not sitting down low enough to allow the guide pin to contact the cone. My guide pin managed to pop out, underneath the cone bottom and work it's way over to the other side of the AFC chamber. This in turn cause a leakage of fuel and I don't know if it will eventuall stop/heal itself or not. This will/may also, allow air into the supply side of the injection pump causing other problems like poor idle, low power and of course, pump damage if the leak is severe enough.

Just a thought guys... when working under that AFC housing think things through and take your time.

pastor bob...

wannadiesel

Thanks for the heads up, Pastor. I hadn't considered that possibility.

12valve@heart

Wannadiesel, did you get your POD's off e-bay or from a DTR vendor or another source?

I found these on e-bay but don't know how good a deal they are. Anybody bought these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW

The HX-35 hasn't even arrived yet and I already have the itch for injectors. Has anyone ever been cured of the BOMB bug or do we just have to keep buying parts to keep it in check?

wannadiesel

I got the Ebay ones, same seller. I am very happy with them.

The only way to stop is to go broke.

charger 69

With my 92 350 CTD I need the power at top end.I have a 36 foot gooseneck trailer that kills the truck at 60 mph or so(I learned about drafting this year)cause I had to flat foot it 95% of the trip.The truck is stock as far as I know.Would injectors be a first step or should other steps be done first??I am after enough power to run with the big trucks so I don't get driven over everywhere except down hill.Also this thing has to pass an imission test each year. Thanks.

wannadiesel

No way will you pass an opacity test with the POD's. They are way too smoky.

First you need to check your throttle linkage to make sure you're getting full travel at the pump when you mash the gas, that's the most common cause of low power. Then you can adjust the high idle screw (the screw the throttle arm stops against when the pedal is mashed) so it just barely stops the arm before it is stopped by the pump internals. Get gauges if you don't have them, and read up on the pump adjustments (in the "tech facts" section at the top of the page). With the emission test you have to pass, playing with the smoke screw is a big no-no, and you'll have to be careful with the star wheel as well.

jleonard

I think you will pass emissions if you rotate your fuel pin back to "min" setting take the test, then reset.
I passed this way in CT with Bully Dog +50s.
**** it was a s-l-o-w ride to the testing station and back!!!
Good luck.
Jay

charger 69

Ok,what I can tell you is the tach.hasn't got higher than 2300 rpm. down hill .The boost gage tops out at 10 -12 pounds and the pyro tops at 1100-1200 degrees.
The mileage is 110K its an automatic with a 3:54 rear.Tech facts will be a priority.

12valve@heart

Charger69,

If your max RPM is 2300, I'd sure look at the throttle linkage. Mine was higher than that before I adjusted it and now it will come right up to 3K.

dzpoorjr

Hey guys-for those of you who have removed stock injectors-say from a 1993-what is the Bosch stock injector number-thanks! have the PODS-but have yet to install them-waitng on my son the mechanic to help!