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oops i broke it now.....

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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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From: Waukon, IA
oops i broke it now.....

well since the pump was out of the truck i decided to grind down my afc foot on the inside of the pump, and when i had it all apart i noticed my level that my full fuel screw sits on was cracked bad, bad enough that i acidently snapped it off . can i replace this level if so how so? here couple pic of it bfoe it snapped off lol






any help is helpful thanxz dan
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:11 PM
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I can't even make anything out in the 1st picture man...

Maybe take another picture and focus it a little better?

Sorry. i'd like to give you some late night help but almost 90% guaranteed the part is unavailable....seems like nothing is around for the VE's anymroe... search here, on cumminsforum, and on 1stgen for another core pump is your best bet
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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looks like a broken fulcrum lever.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 04:34 AM
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Check here #95 of the Parts List.
You will have to go at Bosch Repair Shop for any internal parts for the injection pump.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...15&postcount=9

Jim
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Crossy's son
almost 90% guaranteed the part is unavailable....seems like nothing is around for the VE's anymroe... search here, on cumminsforum, and on 1stgen for another core pump is your best bet
Man, that is one depressing thought, the idea that nothing is around anymore for these injection pumps, or that parts are going to be harder and harder to come across.

OTOH, there is a pump shop up the street from me here in Portland that carries just about everything for the VE. They have sold me some stuff over the past 6 months like a 366 spring and some other gizmos, and they seem quite cool.

Anyway, they are called "Diesel Fuel Injection Service," and are on Vancouver Way. Don't even think they have a website, but a google search should turn up their phone number.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 07:29 AM
  #6  
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If that is that part I think, the cost is $140 (don't know if it was new or used), I almost broke mine once so I know the price since I talked about it with the guy from the fuel injection shop.

Buy a junk IP and get the one from that one.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Alwaysworking
looks like a broken fulcrum lever.
Common mistake when doing a governor spring install. New price for the fulcrum lever is around $400. Complete pump teardown and rebuild is necessary to replace the broken part.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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o wow not quite the info i didnt wanna here but ouch, ive also encounter another issue i need help with, well try to take the injection jump pump im using my t bar puller and the timing gear well not pop off, it well push the injection pump shaft all the way til the t bar wont go anymore. how come it wont pop off and was thinking if i took a small gas torch and heat up the gear would that help? thanxz dan
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 08:16 PM
  #9  
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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Originally Posted by SeanB23
Man, that is one depressing thought, the idea that nothing is around anymore for these injection pumps, or that parts are going to be harder and harder to come across.

OTOH, there is a pump shop up the street from me here in Portland that carries just about everything for the VE. They have sold me some stuff over the past 6 months like a 366 spring and some other gizmos, and they seem quite cool.

Anyway, they are called "Diesel Fuel Injection Service," and are on Vancouver Way. Don't even think they have a website, but a google search should turn up their phone number.
most places around here have the gov. springs.. the seal kits and the solenoids..... and thats it... no tophot.. no afc lever.. no extra fuel pin so we can grind it.. nothing. its a good shop too. the guy has a a 92 CTD as his daily so he knows Ve's
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by minipete
o wow not quite the info i didnt wanna here but ouch, ive also encounter another issue i need help with, well try to take the injection jump pump im using my t bar puller and the timing gear well not pop off, it well push the injection pump shaft all the way til the t bar wont go anymore. how come it wont pop off and was thinking if i took a small gas torch and heat up the gear would that help? thanxz dan

Apply tension with the puller and then give it a good rap with a heavy hammer to shock it, then it should pop loose.

Also you can borrow the bolts from the grid heaters to use for the puller.

BTW turn the engine with the woodruff key UP and stuff a rag in-between the gear and the case so there is no way you can drop the key into the crankcase.
Jim
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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Jim, we've tighting the t bar down as far as we could go, use two wrench to max it out(closed end on open end wrench combo) and I even tap on the t bar with the hammer multiply times, it making me confused y it won't pop off, and we are using the bolts from the grid. When we tighting it down the injection pump shaft is inside of the timing gear, and when we loosing it back up it comes back out (the pump shaft) as we release pressure on the t bar. We've tighted and loosen the t bar 3 times and everytime it tight we hit the t bar with a hammer and not a things happens...... Urgh thanxz dan
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 04:20 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by minipete
Jim, we've tighting the t bar down as far as we could go, use two wrench to max it out(closed end on open end wrench combo) and I even tap on the t bar with the hammer multiply times, it making me confused y it won't pop off, and we are using the bolts from the grid. When we tighting it down the injection pump shaft is inside of the timing gear, and when we loosing it back up it comes back out (the pump shaft) as we release pressure on the t bar. We've tighted and loosen the t bar 3 times and everytime it tight we hit the t bar with a hammer and not a things happens...... Urgh thanxz dan

Slow down before you break something.

Did you remove all 3 of the nuts that hold the pump to the timing case AND did remove the bracket at the rear of the pump and 6 injector lines?

I think there are 2 bolts into the block; if the shaft is moving inside the timing gear then it is defiantly loose.

Check the back of the pump and see what is holding it back, if it is loose from the timing gear and all of the hardware has been removed then the pump should pull straight out after you rotate the pump a bit to clear the injector lines.

Jim
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 06:19 AM
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we did loosen all 3 nuts on the pump and the brackets and the fuel lines, gonna try it again today hopefully. ill report back on how that goes. thanxz jim
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 06:20 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by bgilbert
Common mistake when doing a governor spring install. New price for the fulcrum lever is around $400. Complete pump teardown and rebuild is necessary to replace the broken part.
\

Wouldnt it be easier and cheaper to find a core pump?
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 11:33 AM
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yeah i agree, might as well just get a whole new or rebuilt pump, and keep that one for parts
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