the pump cannot be installed 180deg out, the pump can be assembled to where the piston is 180deg out from the input shaft. but that is it.

does the shop have a factory service manual? if not they need to get one and follow it!

 

EXACTLY. The shop that has the truck swears you have to bench it to adjust timing. Every one else says just unlock it and reset it with a dial gauge, but the shop owner won't hear any of that. He is a super nice guy, but swears you can dial-gauge a P-pump, but not a rotary.

BTW, the FSM gives dial gauge specs for a VE.

At this point, the only choice I have is to let the pump go back to the manufacturer to be timed properly and sent back to my shop. Either that, or I have to tow the thing to Cummins Power South and pay them to put it on.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

Sounds like this shop guy is an idiot, nice guy, or not.

There is no "timing the pump" involved, it's all done off the keyway in the pump gear and it's relation to the teeth on the cam.
It is NOT rocket science to time a VE, generally speaking it's a "line up the dots" deal and you're good to go.
The timing tool only brings it into the spec that is needed to meet emissions.
It will run just fine lined up correctly on the timing gear and set with the slots in the middle.

Get your truck out of there and have someone who knows what they are doing fix it.
Hell, I'd be very tempted jump in the flatbed and come do it for you myself...in his shop!

Pretty ridiculous when a "pump shop" can't even read a manual that they SHOULD have on hand to tell them what they are doing, if they aren't sure.

Mark.

 

Couldn't have said it any better myself.

 

X2. Well said Mark.

 

Hmmmm. Not what I wanted to hear. I was afraid of that, though.

Not much I can do about it now except deal with it. I'll see how it goes when he gets the pump back from the pump shop. If it doesn't work out, I'll just go load it up and haul it to Cummins Power South.

I do wonder, however, why the truck isn't firing if the injectors are actually getting fuel?

 

When I replaced mine, I just eyeballed the clock position of the key way, turned the shaft till it was close and locked it with the set screw...really a no brainer. Then I installed the pump with the mounting studs about in the middle of the adjusting slots on the pump, that should get the timing close enough to where it`ll start, I only have mine timed by ear, advance it till it rattles kinda hard and then back it off a touch, not perfect but close (I need to get the proper adapter for my dial indicator). I did pay heck getting the air out of it and getting it running but that's not really a problem, just a hassle. After I had the pump on, with the inj lines loose at the inj I hit the lift pump primer till I was getting fuel out whichever injector was set to fire on the pump and then rotated the eng around and repeated that process till I had fuel coming from each line. That took quite a while, after it was dribbling using the lift pump primer I gave it a few cranks till I could see fuel hitting on all the lines, snugged em up and it chugged to life. My bet is the system still has air in it.

 

Tell them to pull the front timing cover, line up the dots on the timing gears. Then turn the pump shaft to match the orientation of the slot in the gear and install. The woodruff key can be a PITA to install properly...I spent close to 2 hours getting my pump lined up and installed properly.

Once all that is done then prime, prime, prime...as stated by ChrisLib...and it should fire.


But I think Marks statement nails things down pretty good.

 

Just got a call from the pump shop that built it. They paid to overnight the pump back to their shop in WI, which was $135 bucks one way. They checked it out, and everything on the pump had been messed with. Said it looked like they went to install the 366 spring I requested and got it back together all out of spec...the fueling at idle was set to almost zero. Wonder why it wouldn't crank?

Also, there was some throttle index lever/arm that was adjusted improperly which could also have caused a problem. The pump shop said there were things that had been adjusted that you could not fix without a flow bench.

Long story short, the pump shop charged me $150 (and waived the shipping which ended up being $200) to fix all the damage the diesel shop had done and to bring it back into spec, and to retest it on the bench. This is an absolute nightmare.

 

Could you have the shop ship it to your house and install it yourself this time around? I don't know if you've ever done one before but it's pretty straight forward.

 

Well I'd be going after the shop that messed up the pump...obviously they have no idea what they are doing, and have no reason to be working on a VE Pump truck if this is the kind of service they offer!!

 

Did you tell them to go into your new pump and install a spring, or mess with anything at all besides installing it and setting timing? Have the pump maker give you a detailed report of what they found and get every cent back from the pump installer, that they have charged you and cost you in their stupidity! Well at least that's what I would do.

 

I did ask them to install the 366 spring while they had they pump. In retrospect it was a mistake, but at the time I had no reason to doubt the shop's capability or knowledge.

I have no problem at all with someone not knowing how to do something. I have a huge problem, however, with someone saying they can when they're not sure.

I would love nothing more than to go get the pump and the truck and do it myself, but unfortunately it's not a possibility because of time constraints.

 

Man I wish I was local...I'd go there and get the truck and pump...then push the truck out onto the street...then show these "Tech's" what a little country know how can do.

We have to have a DTR member close by who can help out?

 

What a mess I hope you get it going soon.