new truck
#1
new truck
OK so i bought a 1993 d250 and have been driving it for the last few days. A few things that have come to my attention. First when the truck warms up the engine temp gauge stays between 1/4 and 1/3 but never any hotter is this OK or should I look at getting a different thermostat? Second the brakes give me a weird feeling. Then pedal pulses in and out when they are being applied. I talked to a guy who used to be a mechanic and he said that it is most likely the rear drums. Has anyone had this problem?
Thanks for the help and I will keep asking questions as they come up.
Thanks for the help and I will keep asking questions as they come up.
#2
On the temp question you may want to look into getting an aftermarket gauge, the factory ones aren't the most accurate, BUT that sounds about normal to me.
Yes a break pulse could be from the rears or the fronts. If I were you I'd look into doing the 3" shoes while the drums are being cut, Check the sticky for info.
So you gonna park the mega cab now?
Yes a break pulse could be from the rears or the fronts. If I were you I'd look into doing the 3" shoes while the drums are being cut, Check the sticky for info.
So you gonna park the mega cab now?
#4
My temp gauge gets a shade over 1/3 if I really get my foot in it or I'm towing heavy. My fan will kick in after a bit, esp. at the moment when it's so darned hot, (and it's just barely summer!) but that's the only indication I have that it's getting a tad warm in there. I REALLY need a pyro....
#6
Sold it last week.
I don't think it is the anti lock because the pedal moves in and out even at slow speeds and light braking.
I don't think it is the anti lock because the pedal moves in and out even at slow speeds and light braking.
#7
I don't feel anything in the steering wheel which leads me more to the rear brakes. If the drums are warped is there any way to fix them or do I need to just buy new ones?
Sounds like the gauge is going to be OK I will just leave it alone.
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#8
A good machine shop can check them for you. I've had mine turned at oreilly's with good results. It doesn't take much for a warped drum to pulse the pedal, so they're probably ok. They and the rear shoes usually last longer than the truck.
#9
I called my local brake shop to get a quote on a brake job just to see. $450 for new drums pads and labor and $180 for pads and labor . I will be doing it my self. He asked me what size drum I had to make sure he had parts in stock 11" or 12". I didn't know there were two different size drums. I searched the web and couldn't find anything on the different size drums. The only difference i can find is 2.5" or 3" pads for the 3/4 and 1 ton drums. Am I crazy or is he?
#11
#13
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Well because its a 3/4 ton diesel you'll have the Dana 70 with 12x2.5 brakes.
Should say on that white sticker on the underside of the front edge of the hood if it still there......It'll say what size brakes you have even though its 95% you have the normal size 3/4 ton brakes unless someone has put 1 ton brakes in there over the years
Should say on that white sticker on the underside of the front edge of the hood if it still there......It'll say what size brakes you have even though its 95% you have the normal size 3/4 ton brakes unless someone has put 1 ton brakes in there over the years
#14
Well because its a 3/4 ton diesel you'll have the Dana 70 with 12x2.5 brakes.
Should say on that white sticker on the underside of the front edge of the hood if it still there......It'll say what size brakes you have even though its 95% you have the normal size 3/4 ton brakes unless someone has put 1 ton brakes in there over the years
Should say on that white sticker on the underside of the front edge of the hood if it still there......It'll say what size brakes you have even though its 95% you have the normal size 3/4 ton brakes unless someone has put 1 ton brakes in there over the years
#15
Bet the 11" are for gassers.
While you're at it, get the parking brakes working so you can adjust your brakes, get a GM wheel cylinder (I think mid-80's is what you need. Much bigger=more stopping power=better spool up for drag racing), 3" shoes....
That should do it!
While you're at it, get the parking brakes working so you can adjust your brakes, get a GM wheel cylinder (I think mid-80's is what you need. Much bigger=more stopping power=better spool up for drag racing), 3" shoes....
That should do it!