Boojie_00786

I put a new positive battery cable connector on my truck a week ago, because the old one was cracked and kept coming loose after I parked.

The new connector seems to have fixed the intake heater problem that I was having for a long time. The other great thing that it seems to have fixed is my sub amp, I've been without a sub-woofer for about a year and a half. I guess it was not getting any power the whole time.

Just thought I would share in case anyone else has had any problems like this.

ppiggppenn

Good one: it's so basic that I've looked everywhere else a few times when it was just that clamp.

Crossy's son

I recently completely redid my ground cable with new everything;

The posiive cable i just went to napa and got one of their super heavy duty terminal ends and it works great.

NJTman

Brandon,

are you talking about the type that "bolts on" to the end of the cable ?


If so, keep in mind that that terminal end was designed for "temporary use only". Corrosion will get into and under and within the wire itself.

Either buy a new line, or purchase a new end that can be "brazed" in with solder and flux, then covered with a membrane such as formagasket, liquid tape, or heat shrink tubing

I recently did one on a 88 accord, which the cable would have been a real pain to change out. Since the car is basically a grocery getter junkmobile that my MIA owns (she's 81 years old), it wasn't worth replacing. I took a brass clamp on end, and brazed it to the wire end, and coated the juncture.

She'll be long gone before that one fails again.

here's a good description of how it's done:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...btitle=service


Basically a factory repair

ppiggppenn

Good points, ... I've also seen lead "shims" shaped to fill up terminal clamps that have stretched but not broken so they can be tightened onto the post. Another easy fix if it applies.

Crossy's son

I use this copper shield stuff on everything. I was having cranking issues and connection issues so i had to do something

NJTman

Brandon,

I was @ Napa today, buying front U-joints for the dodge, when I asked about your battery end issue.

He said that Napa sells the sweat in kind, but they didn't stock them.

I guess if you know the gauge of the wire we use, it would be as simple looking it up online, or just calling a local napa.


When mine eventually go, if I don't replace the whole wire, I'm going to Napa.


T.

Onemoparnut

That is good to know thanks for that info T.

u2slow

I crimp lugs to the end of my cables, and use the military terminals. Much more versatile.

Onemoparnut

Where did you get those from I like that set up.

Jim Lane

You can get Military Battery Terminals from NAPA

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

Or if you have an Interstate Battery Store near you they also have them at least they do here in So-Cal.

Also they shouldn't cost you more that $6.00-7.00 each, I have seen them at Stereo Shops and they were trying to get $25.00 each for them.

Jim

delsilver

you can also get marine style which are the same idea as the milatary except they have a stud molded in which points up instead of the horizontal bolt.
Better in my opinion because there is one less connection to come loose or develop corrosion.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...sporting-goods
11.00 for a set.
You can also get a marine style battery when repacing your battery which has both the regular post as well as the stud so there are no additional connections. Make sure if you plan to go this route you get a starting as opposed to a deep cycle.

Jim Lane

Through my lifetime I have installed many 8-D batteries on trucks and transit coaches set in series/ parallel (Cummins 24-volt start) parallel configurations and have repaired or replaced miles of battery cable, if the cable ends wore out, melted off of just fell apart I would first try to replace the end with a new one, I would chop off the terminal and cut back the insulation and if the copper strands were clean I would wire brush them and solder on a new one however if there is any corrosion under the jacket it cannot be successfully soldered and needed to be replaced.

I have seen battery cables where the acid had wicked almost all the way through the cable and you could bend it and snap the strands of copper inside.

There is a lot of power stored in a lead acid battery,

I have seen the alternator overcharge and the individual 2-volt cells were so hot that all of the tar has melted out of the battery case and the caps were blown off from the hydrogen sulfide gas escaping.

The series-parallel switch short out basically 2) 2000-amp plus batteries shorted together, the lead post vaporize off the top of the battery spitting molten lead everywhere.

Also corrosion, why do your cables corrode?

Cables and post corrode when the seal around the post is compromised allowing acid vapor to escape and bathe the terminals and cables in a corrosive atmosphere, this can happen when the battery is being overcharged or being heavly discharged also causing acid to leak from the vent caps.

Most sealed batteries have a vent tube that needs to be routed away from the battery to carry of the gasses.

Jim