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New parts and LOTS of smoke

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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 08:37 PM
  #16  
NE frmhnd's Avatar
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From: McCook, Nebraska
You did change the filter after the new lift pump? Sounds like you had algae. Could be more in it yet.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 09:59 PM
  #17  
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From: Burgaw, NC
It wasn't blowing smoke before the injectors at all. I remember reading about washer thickness, and I used the washers that came with the injectors. I don't know if thinner washers would help. If it was running smooth, I would say maybe that's it. But it shakes so bad I'm afraid I'm going to break a motor mount! I did change the fuel filter after I replaced the lift pump.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 10:30 PM
  #18  
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From: McCook, Nebraska
OK. I think the torque on the injector nuts is supposed to be 44 ft-lb.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 11:42 PM
  #19  
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From: Helena, Montana
Have you tried pressurizing the fuel tank with a LITTLE compressed air and have someone crawl around and look for leaks? Do you have good fuel flow from all the injectors when you crack the lines? If it's running that rough it cannot be running on all cylinders. Sometimes it takes a lot of time to get all the air out of the injectors and lines.
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 04:48 PM
  #20  
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Sounds like unburned fuel. Turbo size doesn't matter at idle or just revving the motor. How much smoke are we talking when you say pouring?

You had a rough idle prior to changing the injectors and now you added more fuel to the equation and now idle is worse and have smoke. I would look at timing. Has timing been messed with? Has the pump been pulled and replaced?
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 07:47 PM
  #21  
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From: Burgaw, NC
Timing was my first thought originally. KSB is unplugged and jumpered, but that shouldn't matter. I plugged it back in. The two previous owners were both older guys, so I doubt the pump has been tampered with. It looks like all original factory paint, even on all the bolt heads. But I'll look at the timing marks and see. When I say pouring, I mean it's obnoxious, like somebody started a forest fire. And it burns your eyes
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 08:14 PM
  #22  
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From: Burgaw, NC
I have good flow from all the injectors when I crack them. It definitely acts like its not hitting on a cylinder or two though, the way it shakes and can't pull any rpm's. I've gone back through it again and cracked every line and bolt I can find to crack; no bubbles, no spitting, just fuel. The two injectors that are still leaking are leaking just below the hold down nut, and it's just tiny bubbles of fuel. Yes, it needs to be sealed, but I've had worse leaks than that and it didn't run this bad.
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 08:20 PM
  #23  
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From: hesperia ca.
you said you had a watery liquid in the pump, you sure you got all of it out, and what did you do to mark timing?
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 08:41 PM
  #24  
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From: Pottstown, PA
start basic and pressurize the fuel tank and look for fuel leaks. You said it ran rough before this so it leads me to believe you have the same problem as before but you may have just made it worse by creating another air leak (leaking injector at the hold down nuts). If it is not air then start to look at timing issues or possible a bad injector. Are the timing marks still matched up on the pump and timing cover case?
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 09:27 PM
  #25  
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From: Burgaw, NC
Just checked, injector marks line up with the case. I will pressurize tank...how much pressure are we talking about?
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 10:33 PM
  #26  
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From: Helena, Montana
Just a few PSI, I wrap a rag around a blowgun and stick it in the filler neck, blow air for a second or two then stop and repeat. I've never seen it done but I hear you can split the plastic tanks if you get too much pressure.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 08:20 AM
  #27  
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From: Burgaw, NC
Sooty, water was in the lift pump, not the injection pump. Injection pump hasn't been touched. Not to say that gunk didn't find it's way to the injection pump, though.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 08:42 AM
  #28  
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From: Saskatchewan
Take a infrared heat gun and check all 6 exhaust ports 30 seconds after a cold start. Switch the injector(s) on the cold cylinders. It might be plugged nozzle(s)
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 11:39 AM
  #29  
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From: Monticello IN
Lets go back and listen to what you said :
Motor shakes now and before you you worked on it
Seem to have the injectors bled but problem is the same as before you changed them. Could have had a bad injector before as well as now. Just because an injector is new doesnt mean its going to work . Problem is the chances of putting a new bad injector in the same whole is slim to none.
You said you cracked the lines when running and seems like it isnt hitting on a couple holes right ? Are those 2 holes next to each other ? If so you probably have a head gasket blowed between the 2 cylinders.
If the 2 missing cylinders are NOT next to each other switch them with an injector out of another hole and see if the problem is the same or if it moves with the injector. If it moves you have a couple bad injectors if it doesnt move we can go on to the next step. Try it and see what happens.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 08:51 PM
  #30  
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From: Burgaw, NC
Will do. I like that troubleshooting system. When I pulled the old (stock) injectors and had them pop tested they were all over the place...none were set right. Rather than have them rebuilt, I spent a few extra bucks for a little bigger injector, which I had planned to do anyway (just not this soon!) Thanks for the info.
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