new intake and crossover pipe...
09-28-2006, 09:26 AM
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new intake and crossover pipe...
yes...this is a double-post...but I'm putting it here in case some of you aren't still following my post I have running (currently ~150 posts)...and also for future searches...
I built a new intake for my HTT Stage III...but instead of using the rubber elbows from airflo.com that most people use, I opted for the silicone couplings similar to those that I used on a previous vehicle that I supercharged...
I bought two 4" diameter 45-degree elbows, and got a piece of scrap 4" aluminized exhaust tubing from local shop...used one long section, and then just a short piece to connect the last elbow to the filter...
I then continued the project to the crossover tube, since the OEM tube "seems" to be slightly restrictive, and at 2" diameter, was a definitely bottleneck with the new 2.5" output on the HTT compressor housing.
I actually found a scrap of 3" exhaust (at the same shop) that was already bent. We were just gonna use it as a guide to figure out if we needed to bend a new piece with a smaller angle or a bigger angle, and it ended up being a perfect fit.
My first thought was to try to put a 90-degree bend into the crossover pipe, but decided that a silicone 90-degree elbow would be MUCH easier. So, all I had to do was fab up a mount to attach to the grid heater that would provide a way to attach the 3" elbow.
My local Jeep shop builds custom roll cages, and the floor plates he uses just happened to be the exact size of the grid heater, and already had four holes drilled in them that just happened to be the same bolt pattern I needed. All that was left was to cut a 3" hole in one, and weld in a small scrap of 3" tubing, just enough to be able to clamp the elbow to.
I ended up using three of the plates, just so the bracket that holds the throttle cables would still line up right, and so that I didn't have to buy shorter bolts or cut the ones I had.
Yes, the silicone connectors are a bit more pricey...but the tubing was free, so it wasn't too bad overall.
I started out with hose clamps, then decided t-bolt clamps would be the way to go.
A couple pics from the various stages...
the unfinished grid heater adapter, the 3" elbow and the 2.5"-3" reducer (for compressor housing to crossover pipe junction):
the adapter with another plate welded to the bottom, plus a coat of spray...and the second pic shows how the hole was cut bigger on the second plate so it could be welded from the bottom:
a pic of the third plate, which would be a spacer on top of the adapter...with a notch cut out so the clamp could be put as low as possible (the one "error" I'd correct if I did it again would be to make the scrap of 3" a little longer on the grid heater end):
sprayed all the pipe with high heat rattlecan...color is Cast Iron Coat...also finally painted the BHAF mount...
a couple final pics after hose clamps were replaced with t-bolt clamps at 10pm last night:
as you can tell from the black mark on top of the crossover pipe, clearance is tight...but it's just the nasty insulation rubbing on it, not full metal to metal contact with the hood...
overall, very pleased...
Greg
I built a new intake for my HTT Stage III...but instead of using the rubber elbows from airflo.com that most people use, I opted for the silicone couplings similar to those that I used on a previous vehicle that I supercharged...
I bought two 4" diameter 45-degree elbows, and got a piece of scrap 4" aluminized exhaust tubing from local shop...used one long section, and then just a short piece to connect the last elbow to the filter...
I then continued the project to the crossover tube, since the OEM tube "seems" to be slightly restrictive, and at 2" diameter, was a definitely bottleneck with the new 2.5" output on the HTT compressor housing.
I actually found a scrap of 3" exhaust (at the same shop) that was already bent. We were just gonna use it as a guide to figure out if we needed to bend a new piece with a smaller angle or a bigger angle, and it ended up being a perfect fit.
My first thought was to try to put a 90-degree bend into the crossover pipe, but decided that a silicone 90-degree elbow would be MUCH easier. So, all I had to do was fab up a mount to attach to the grid heater that would provide a way to attach the 3" elbow.
My local Jeep shop builds custom roll cages, and the floor plates he uses just happened to be the exact size of the grid heater, and already had four holes drilled in them that just happened to be the same bolt pattern I needed. All that was left was to cut a 3" hole in one, and weld in a small scrap of 3" tubing, just enough to be able to clamp the elbow to.
I ended up using three of the plates, just so the bracket that holds the throttle cables would still line up right, and so that I didn't have to buy shorter bolts or cut the ones I had.
Yes, the silicone connectors are a bit more pricey...but the tubing was free, so it wasn't too bad overall.
I started out with hose clamps, then decided t-bolt clamps would be the way to go.
A couple pics from the various stages...
the unfinished grid heater adapter, the 3" elbow and the 2.5"-3" reducer (for compressor housing to crossover pipe junction):
the adapter with another plate welded to the bottom, plus a coat of spray...and the second pic shows how the hole was cut bigger on the second plate so it could be welded from the bottom:
a pic of the third plate, which would be a spacer on top of the adapter...with a notch cut out so the clamp could be put as low as possible (the one "error" I'd correct if I did it again would be to make the scrap of 3" a little longer on the grid heater end):
sprayed all the pipe with high heat rattlecan...color is Cast Iron Coat...also finally painted the BHAF mount...
a couple final pics after hose clamps were replaced with t-bolt clamps at 10pm last night:
as you can tell from the black mark on top of the crossover pipe, clearance is tight...but it's just the nasty insulation rubbing on it, not full metal to metal contact with the hood...
overall, very pleased...
Greg
09-28-2006, 10:09 AM
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OH, I love that. I definitely see this in the future of my hauler. What do each of those silicon boots go for? I have a local shop that could provide the pipe. That leaves me finding somewhere to bend some metal to make a BHAF mount.
09-28-2006, 10:25 AM
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I bought 'em off Ebay...
several vendors on there, several prices...make sure to look, cause some of them are priced higher, but include "free" t-bolts...
I paid ~$35/each for the 45's, ~$25 for the 90 and ~$20 for the reducer...and ~$2.50/each for the t-bolt clamps...
pricey, yes...but they're made to withstand lots of pressure...
from past experience, I prefer the silicone pieces that are an orange rubber look on the inside, with the blue covering...not the pure blue or black pieces...
the seller I bought the silicone from was jrprp1, and the specs on the silicone are:
3/16" Wall Thickness
4 Ply, Polyester Reinforcement
Smooth Wipe Finish
Withstands temperatures from -40F to 500F
Resistant to UV, Water, OZone, Oxygen, and Oil
Working Pressure: 80psi
Burst Pressure: 240psi
Built in ISO 9002 Certified facility
100% Pure Silicone, not Rubber Composite
I showed it to a friend locally, and he gave me a name for somewhere that had the stuff for a lot cheaper, but I can't remember it right now...once I find the name (it was an online site) I'll post it up...
Greg
09-28-2006, 12:01 PM
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Very clean looking and very nice! Looks like I might have to invest in something like that very soon. And thanks for being a good guy and volunteering to send plates out 
09-28-2006, 12:13 PM
#7
you can order just about any silicone charge air coupling from summit racing online as well. Turbonetics is the manufacturer
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09-28-2006, 12:25 PM
#8
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Very clean install, my compliments on a good job.
It is good you changed to the T-bolt clamps.
My cousin has spent a fortune repairing a liner/piston/turbo on account of a plain old hose-clamp slipping off, allowing the elbow to suck in the turbo, destroying the turbo, and part of something made it's way into a cylinder, knocking, or burning, a hole in a piston, and scarring a sleeve.
09-29-2006, 01:13 AM
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Nice, clean, setup.. If you have problems with the boots staying on, you might have to roll a small bead on the pipes... Depends on the pressures you are running...
Looking Good..
Bryan
Looking Good..
Bryan
09-29-2006, 08:11 AM
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good idea...we'll see if I ever blow one off...
if I do, I plan on lengthening the adapter piece I made, or adding another plate to the bottom and not using the spacer on the top...it'll keep it the same thickness, but give me more area to clamp to...
Greg