Have been doing some driveline work to the '89.

The stock front drive shaft was thrashed. CV was pretty slopped out, as well as the splines. Plus, the pathetically small mopar u-joint. Here's the new one, 1350 cv with a 1410 at front axle. 1-1/2" -16 spline slip yoke. Poly trans mount too, while we were at it.







Almost done with the rear ds loops/ u-joint shields. 6" pipe, has about 6" of slide to it. Also heim joint ends for flex, since they were layin' around.





Hinges to make it easy to drop the 'shaft. I put one on the rear guard, too.

 

Let us know what you think of the poly trans mounts...

 

I like it... Looks cool, like the hinge idea... Front shaft looks good too... Definatly a lot stronger with the 1410..

Whats goin on with the ladder bars, those done already or you making those too...

I get more excited about fabrication post than the hp posts.. Call me Crazy!!

 

x2 Fab is where it is at.

 

Looks great

How deep did they dig into your pocket for the shaft?

I need to make some loops before they stop letting me pull

 

What have you used for the front pinion flange? Is it off the second gen trucks? Part number would be great also! My front drive shaft is junk also, this really interests me. The front u joint on the first gens I feel undersized for what it is. Also, your front drive shaft, is that custom made, or sourced off another truck?

For the transmission mounts, do you have the part numbers also?

Great amount of detail with your post!! I am feeling possibly a sticky with this information.

TIA,
Glenn

 

Nice job...Looks great

 

The front pinion flange on the 205 t-case accepts the 1350 style Cv flange, That is stock, pretty sure he retained that.. The yoke is just an upgraded 1410 style yoke for the dana 60.. Nothing special.. Should be redily avaible at any drive line shop..

For pulling, is there a minimum number of hoops that has to be on the rear shaft??

 

I think they just want the joints covered and at least 1 hoop on the rear

The rear yoke off your broken 70 will also work on the front

 

I know when I popped my front end pinion yoke Dana no longer makes the small ujoint yoke. I had to get the bigger yoke and get a hybrid joint that matched the driveshaft on 2 caps and the pinion yoke on the other caps. It was pretty pricey.

 

Here is the mounts: KMY part # PRT 4-1604

http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.p...4&cat=0&page=3

They fit perfect and are 100x better than the mushy old ones. You used to pull on the driveshaft and the whole engine/trans would wiggle side to side about 3/4".

It is a superduty front 'shaft. I looked through a lot of u-joint catalogs. According to what I found, all superduty's had a 1350 front driveshaft. From a '99 f250 gasser auto to a '07 f-550 diesel stick. I was trying to find a 1410 cv, but settled for 1350.

Like has been said it is a spare yoke from the rear axle. On the cv end, there is some custom work. To make this a "bolt on" you need to buy a new output flange that is setup for a 2" pilot. The stock one is 3.125". So after some brainstorming , this is what we did. Cut the very end off from a stock cv, and surface the side you cut on. Then you have a spacer basically. Then drill the holes in the new cv end out to 7/16(they are threaded 12mm). Bolt the cv with spacer to a spare flange. Once it is all tight welder 'er up. With all four bolts started there is basically no movement. It will be fine.





Here are the welds:



Then, you order a new slip yoke for a 1410 joint and you are done. You could buy a new 1350 yoke for the 60, and use the ford slip yoke. It was only $5 more for the slip yoke than the pinion yoke, so I got that. All in all I have about $150 in it with a new Spicer 5-801X(non-greasable) u-joint, Spicer slip yoke and Spicer strap kits. I got the 'shaft at a junk yard.

This is how I make them:



I use a flat bar to get the yokes phased right, and then that fixture to get the end straight. It was perfect, but is about 0.004" out after welding. You can heat and cool the tube to straighten it, but I said close enough.

I plan to add bolts to the hinge side of the loops too. Will have more pics when they are painted. Got to build one for the front, too.

Ladder bars? They are done. Painting and rounding all the corners on them right now as well.

 

Got the front shield done:





Installed:






Dropping the 'shaft:



Got the rear ones painted too. Added the extra bolt in the middle rings:

 

WOW man looks good deff overkill but i love it evrything and the red makes it and nice to see somone else thinks about removal of things cant tell you the dumb stuff ive seen

 

Lookin Good!

I was in one of my local parts suppliers last week talking about front drive shafts for our trucks. He actually went in the back and pulled out a drive shaft with 1350 joints and the proper flange for our trucks. One of the local drive line shops are making these. Cost for it is about $600. They actually charge $400 to rebuild our factory drive shafts, so I don't think the price is that bad. He didn't mention about the pinion flange, but as been said on here that they are available.

Funny as someone thinks outside of the box there are tones of options that magically show up.

Thanks for making me think outside the box!

Glenn

 

looking good for sure, those ladder bars are stout to say the least!! If you get time tell me a little about your fuel supply system.. I really like the front yoke shield, it looks cool and looks to function well..