I am in the process of killing the dowel pin in my '92 w250 and I need to know how many bolts need to be tightened in the timing case. Am I correct that the bolts that need tightening/loctite are, the bolt you use with the tab, and the four that are behind the camshaft gear?

And can someone tell me how you remove and tighten the two bolts that are hidden behind the camsheft gear? I can get to the two camretainer bolts but I can't seam to get a socket on the other two. I have the holes in the gear aligned over them but those two bolts are just off set a bit to much.

I don't want to put this thing back together and be worring about one of those bolts getting loose.

Thanks for the help,
Mike

 

Look in the sticky there are detailed instructions there.

 

Unless it has changed, the write up in the sticky doesn't answer the question I asked. Unless I am missing something, the one I read was from pavementsucks. It says nothing about accessing two of the bolts behind the cam gear.

 

Try a quarter inch drive socket, as that's what I used, and it actually wasn't an issue. getting the socket on the head of the bolt. Mine weren't loose, so I just checked them for torque. The ones that were accessible, and removable weren't loose either, but I pulled them, and locktited them as well.

If the holes in the cam gear are too small, you could probably dremmel them just large enough to remove. Again, I found mine were tight, and I believe still torqued to the spec. I think it was 30" lbs, but I'm not sure.

 

Cool, Ill give it a shot.

 

Be careful if you do the dremmeling.


#1 dust control
#2 balance.. Don't take too much off, as you can offset the cam gear balance. Not entirely sure it's actually required to be balanced, but I wouldn't take the chance of too much material removal.

 

I just tried the 1/4 drive socket the one worked the other was way off. I tried to get a box wrench on it but it didn't work either. All the other bolts were torqued to spec, and I couldn't move it with my fingers. So I guess I'll let it be and hope alls well as I am not gonna pull or grind on the cam/gear .

 

Exactly what I did. If it's not loose, don't mess with it.

 

Check your belt tensioner and water pump when you are in there. I tabbed the KDP on a 1st and 2nd gen recently and both tensioner pulley bearings were on their way out. Easy to closely inspect weep hole on water pump then as well.

Torque on the 10 mm cap bolts is 18 lbs

 

I had just about gotten it put back together, and noticed the yellow part of the front crank seal doesn't seem to be contacting the crank all the way around. It contacts most all the way but a small portion on the left side doesn't (I'll attach a picture).

I installed it according to the instruction in the cummins b series manual. And I measure the crank with a caliper and the tiny grove that was there was less than .010" so I didn't think a wear sleeve was required.

So how bad is this? Is it going to leak? If the tiny grove (which I could barely catch with my finger nail) isn't an issue . The only other thing I can think of is I somehow installed the seal slightly crooked.

If I did indeed install the seal crooked can I reuse? How about the the cover gasket both have been on the engine for less than a day at this point so I hope I can just know the seal back out and reseat it, I just don't know if the Teflon will be ruined by doing that.

Thanks

 

I'll try again, can the cover gasket be reused?

 

I looked at the picture closely and maybe it is my eyes but I don't see anything abnormal in it? Perhaps another photo from a different angle. I can't see anything being slightly crooked in the photo.

Regarding the groove, some say if there is anything you can feel you need a wear sleeve. I had the same slight groove and used no wear sleeve. No issues. Chances are the new seal when seated will not be riding along that ridge. When I seated mine I took close note of the depth in the cover the seal sat at and seated it slightly deeper so it rides on the crank in a different surface area.

How did the B series manual have you install the seal? Did you use a TST tab kit or buy the seal separate? If I was really concerned about the seal install I would personally install another one. To me the $30 or so isin't worth doing it again or loosing sleep over it. When I installed mine I used a little thread locker around the outside of the metal ring to give a little more insurance on the metal to metal contact seal there. If am not sure if popping it back out and then reinstalling will be worry free. It took a lot of pounding on mine to get it out and I would just be concerned about slightly deforming the metal ring and not getting a good seal if reinstalling. The teflon would not be my concern as the motor has not been run with it.

The timing cover gasket should be fine to use again if you remove the cover. I used a gasket and permatex gasket sealant on mine (not RTV, the red brush on sealer). If you used the gasket with RTV or with nothing it should reseal with no issue. Just check it.

 

I made my own tab and got the crank seal kit and gasket from cummins. I installed the seal from the back side of the cover using the supplied tool and red threadlocker on the outside of it.

The issue I feel is that the yellow part is not contacting about 1/3 of the circumference of the crankshaft (I’ll attach another picture). I think what might have happened is that while installing the cover on the engine, I slife theseal over the crank slightly crooked and in doing so, pushed out the one side of the yellow part of the seal.

I think if it was the grove was an issue I would see a gap around the entire circumference of the crank.

Anyway I’ll post another picture to try and clarify what I am describing.

Thanks

 

Attached is the TSB from Cummins with instructions for killing the KDP.

Our First Gen's have the "Bossed Gear Housing." (The tab sold by Cummins for the "Non-bossed Gear Housing" is for Second Gen trucks.)

According to Cummins, the capscrews behind the cam gear may be accessed by barring the engine. As stated above, the torque specification for the capscrews is 18 ft-lbs.

 

That is actually a dust shield, I would roll the engine over and see if it comes in, perhaps you rolled the seal lip? Anyway, I would try it before I ripped it back apart.

Nothing says the orange part has to actually touch the crank.