After half a day trying to sand the hood down and going through about 15 disks I gave up on sanding it. The clearcoat not only was applied badly, way to thick, cracked, rippled etc..., it wasn't hardened properly. After about 30 seconds of sanding the paper would gum up and become ineffictive.

I got a gallon of stripper and started in. I stripped it down to the original primer and then I sanded that down even further. I finish sanded with 400 grit and then I primed it.

I found that Sherwin Williams sells a self etching primer in aerosol cans. It's $8.95 a can though but since I was down to the metal over a good part of it I sprayed the whole thing. Unfortunately I have to drive 60 miles to buy it in Tulsa even though there's a Sherwin Williams store in town they can't get it and they can't even find it on their computer! ???

I was able to sand the sides of the bed with no problems, probably because the clearcaot was sprayed on a vertical surface and wasn't nearly as thick. I'm dreading the top of the cab though.

I have some 600 grit to lightly sand the primer since it feels very rough. Probably due to my less than perfect spraying technique.

I'll update the pics tomorrow when it's light outside again.

How difficult is it to get the fenders off and back on? I've already stripped the front end and bumper. Thank God for air wrenches!

Edwin

 

The fenders are easy to remove, they are just bolted on.
While you have the fenders off, check for and repair the cowl cracks
at the base of the fwd roof pillars where they attach at the cab.

 

Edwinsmith I feel your pain I have been collecting parts to restore my 1990 I was down in S carolina in Sept and bought a mint cab from a 93 dodge I too bought a gallon of paint stripper and went to town. So far I have 3 coats of POR15 3 coats white paint 3 coats clear on the under side floor! I bought newndoors new fenders new hood all new weather stripping new interior. I hope to have back on yhe road this summer.

 

I was hoping to be further along by now but age and arthritis keep me from doing as much as I'd like. Also I'm working outside so the wind and the sun take their toll on me. I'm about ready to load everything up and move it to my brother's airplane hanger.

I got sidetracked today installing a pyro and ran out of time so I couldn't do any pics. Look for them tomorrow.

Edwin

 

I talked with a friend that runs a acid dip shop and acording to him the best and easiest way is to use the comercieally available stripper called areostrip (it's got aero in the name) and use a piece of visqueen or sarahn wrap over the top of it to keep it moist (don't let the stuff dry) and give the chemicals time to work. Pull back the plastic and check to see if it's done it's trick and then remove the residue. He also said to pressure wash thoroughly to remove all the chemicals you don't want it to eat the new paint you apply. Jethrro

 

Another person suggested that brand but I couldn't find it. I'll try the saran wrap to keep it from drying out though that sounds like a good idea since I have to waste stripper to keep it moist.

It was also suggested to wipe it down with acetone to remove any residual stripper. So far I have hosed it off some then sanded and cleaned with acetone.

Thanks

Edwin

 

Try Knects or Napa. Scratch that Knects is a local chain. I can go down and check the ingredients on the can tomorrow and Pm you the list then you can look for similar ingredients at a paint supply shop. If your interested. Jethrro

 

Thanks. I have about 1/2 gallon if BIX stripper left but if I need more it would be nice to try the Aero stuff. I understand it has an airplane on the label.

Edwin

 

Hey edwinsmith,
Sorry to hijack the thread, but do you know of any good salvage yards around here for our trucks? there is one down in Oklahoma city, but i couldnt find what I wanted down there...

Thanks!
Patrick

 

We have a pretty good one on 166 hwy east of town a few miles on the county line. It called - wait for it - County Line Salvage.

There are also a couple down in South Coffeyville, OK. I think there's one in Collinsville but I've only seen it from the highway and never been there.

At County Line I was able to get a complete window regulator with a good motor attached for $30.

Most of my parts so far have come from Ebay or through DTR classifieds.

JC Whitney has some good stuff and Summit Racing is good also.

Edwin

 

Here's the photo I took this morning of my primed hood. Looks 1000% better that what is was before. I have a lot more work to do before I have the topcoat professionally done.

I may get some good aerosol white and paint the area between the cab and the bed so the painter doesn't have to charge me for the labor to move the bed back again. I have to drive 60 miles to Tulsa to get it shot. Still thinking of having the aircraft friends shoot it. What paint would you all reccomend I purchase and how much to do the whole truck.

Edwin