Bought a new yolk for my front axle the other day. The old one was so wore that it wouldn't hold the caps in. The new one is about 1/4" shorter than the old one, but the guy told me it wouldn't extend the driveshaft enought to talk about. The only problem was the u-joint is different. The caps on the u-joint that fit into the new yolk are a bit smaller, so you have one more part number to remember. This new yolk looks SO much stronger though, especially with the u-bolts instead of straps! I don't think I'll ever have a problem again!

 

yes the u-bolt desing is better, and the caps are saposed to have circle clips on the inside of the yoke to hold the caps in the stock yoke. and you can rebend or replace just the straps

i would have got a dana 70 yoke off the rear end that would be stronger, but then the drive line has to be upgraded

 

Where did you get it from?

 

I got it from A1 Driveshaft in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. I would think any driveshaft place would have them, or any 4X4 store.

 

I had the clips on the caps inside of the yolk, and I re-bent the straps, but I lost my third cap when I decided to do something different. After 400,000 miles my yolk was pretty well wore.

 

Just be careful, lots of guys overtighten the the u-bolt style which binds the caps and causes premature u-jint failure... I want to say the torque spec is like 8-10ft lbs.. But i would double check first..

 

That's why I like these, the bolts don't have to be guerrilla tight, and you'll never snap a bolt off in the yolk and have to drill it out. been there done that. Now it's just a u-bolt. It looks like it could take a lot more abuse too!

 

schamran,

Just wondering if you got that "yolk" from and egg? Or do you mean yoke?

Thanks for the pictures and info.

 

The straps for the stock yoke stretch over time . You can buy a new kit with new straps and bolts , that makes a world of difference at holding the cap.

 

how much were they, difficulty and time putting in, part numbers? or a name

thanks justin

 

I was wondering if i spelled it right or not. You get the idea right?

I bought the YOKE at A1 Driveshaft in Milwaukee, and I 'm not sure where else you can get it. I will have to check the part number of the u-joint when i go back home this weekend.

Also, I have bought new straps, and I even took them to the grinder to take off as much material as I could (where the strap meets the yoke) and I bent them, but my yoke was so wore they didn't sit in there right. I don't know how, but I kept loosing caps, even though the clips were in on the inside. I don't need the clips on the inside anymore though, because this yoke has tabs to hold the cap in from the outside. I paid $105 for the yoke and the u-joint. The guy at the driveshaft place told me that my yoke had been discontinued, and this is the only one I can get. I think it will save me a lot of headaches, and it looks like it would hold up better in, say, a truck pull.

 

thanks for the info

 

The 92 and earlier yokes were pretty small.
The 93s were decent size.

 

Wow I guess I did not know that. I think there are quite a few differences between the 92 and the 93. Even the air filter assembly! What do those ones look like?

And as far as difficulty, it was no different to install than the old one, but the u-joint was easier to install, because the u-bolts would hold the caps in while i threaded the nuts on from the back, instead of trying to hold the driveshaft up, the strap on, and trying to thread those dinky little bolts in with my two hands.

When I took my old yoke out, according to my mechanic, I should have marked the stud coming out of the pumpkin with die so i know how far the nut threads. Either way I put a different part back in so it didn't matter, and he told me to tighten the nut until it stops, and then give it like 40 pounds, but not too much because it will tighten the entire differential up. From what I gathered, you don't dare drive the truck, lockouts or not, without that nut!

It took me less than 1 working hour to have the old one out, and the new one in.

Again, I will try to find some brand names and some part numbers this weekend when I go home. I should write them down and keep them in the truck!

 

I would not worry about marking the pinion nut. That is for crush sleeves, and the D60 has shims to set the bearing preload. Tighten it up to about 300 ft/#'s.

What size u-joint does that take? You got a conversion for the driveshaft end?