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To muffle or not to muffle

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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #16  
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From: Central KY
I guess what I was getting at is, does the motor noise in the cab cancel out what the muffler muffles and it sounds like, from what I can tell, that the muffler doesn't really matter as long as the exhaust exits in the stock location? Or do some of you feel that a muffler helps that much? I've been straight piped for a while now.

As for the band clamps, how do they work on joints where one pipe is expanded so the other slips into it? Slightly different diameters. Or are you guys talking about pipe to pipe butt connections? The DE is slip joints correct?

Thanks,
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 08:53 PM
  #17  
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Mine with a 3" straight pipe exiting in the original position behind the right rear wheel at cruise is quiet enough I can listen to the radio and hold a conversation. More than I can say for my hemi powered street truck.
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 09:18 PM
  #18  
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Yes the DE is slip joint, and the band clamps I use are about 4 inches wide. The ones I get at napa are just flat and will conform to the edge if the slip joint when you tighten them. If I buy them from a truck dealer they are actually stepped for the slip joint if that makes sense. Make sure you tell them they are for a 4 inch exhaust because they do come in many sizes.
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 04:19 AM
  #19  
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From: Central KY
OK thanks. I'm actually using 4" NAPA ones now to hold my rusted out exhaust together! I'll try them on the slip joints when I get new.
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 08:43 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by KRB
I guess what I was getting at is, does the motor noise in the cab cancel out what the muffler muffles and it sounds like, from what I can tell, that the muffler doesn't really matter as long as the exhaust exits in the stock location? Or do some of you feel that a muffler helps that much? I've been straight piped for a while now.

As for the band clamps, how do they work on joints where one pipe is expanded so the other slips into it? Slightly different diameters. Or are you guys talking about pipe to pipe butt connections? The DE is slip joints correct?

Thanks,
the band clamps for the slip connections have a step in them to compensate for the lap in the tubing. the diamond eye are about twice the price of the walker $18 compared to around $8


The reason I posted the DE is the picture is better.
Attached Thumbnails To muffle or not to muffle-dep-l20sa_xl.jpg  
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 08:50 AM
  #21  
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I use those style bands on my other truck and they do a nice job of it. IMO, $18 is too much for them...
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:09 AM
  #22  
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I guess you fellas aren't subject to emissions testing. Here, the first thing they do is stick a mirror under the truck to check the integrity of the exhaust. If it isn't right, you fail.The test itself is just an opacity test and, if you aren't "rollin' coal" you are likely to pass. If they find that you have tampered with the exhaust or any other emissions equipment, you have to restore it all before they will retest. In the mean time you get 1 month to do it, after that you park your truck or risk getting it impounded...Mark
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:24 AM
  #23  
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I say to muffle. Loud exhaust on a diesel does not sound good, IMHO. Here in TX, they also visually check the exhaust system. You have to have a muffler. Glass pack would work.

I do like loud V8 gassers, if done right, like early 70's cars and trucks. Anything wath a cat-converter is already muffled enough. I like true dual exhaust, not split at the cat back.
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Redtruck-VA
I use those style bands on my other truck and they do a nice job of it. IMO, $18 is too much for them...
That was the best picture of the two the walker clamps are eight bucks but the picture didn't show the step I was trying to show
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:36 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by maybe368
I guess you fellas aren't subject to emissions testing. Here, the first thing they do is stick a mirror under the truck to check the integrity of the exhaust. If it isn't right, you fail.The test itself is just an opacity test and, if you aren't "rollin' coal" you are likely to pass. If they find that you have tampered with the exhaust or any other emissions equipment, you have to restore it all before they will retest. In the mean time you get 1 month to do it, after that you park your truck or risk getting it impounded...Mark
First gens are exempt here or I wouldn't even mess with them (as much as I like them). I will not own anything that has to be smog checked! It is a freaking nightmare here.
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 11:00 AM
  #26  
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We don't even have a safety inspection here.
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 11:57 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mknittle
First gens are exempt here or I wouldn't even mess with them (as much as I like them). I will not own anything that has to be smog checked! It is a freaking nightmare here.
I'm normally with you on vehicles that need testing, but I just had to have a new car . It is exempt for 5 years and there is a federally mandated emissions warranty for 75k miles. Many people don't know about that and the dealer is not likely to tell them. here the only places that require emissions are Phoenix metro and Tucson metro, everywhere else is exempt. My 90 has often blown a zero on the opacity test, guess I'm not "rollin' coal" ...Mark P.S. Also any car with classic or collector car insurance or '66 or older is exempt...
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 12:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Angry Johnny
We don't even have a safety inspection here.
The only safety inspection that we have here is for vehicles brought from other states and it is a one time only deal...Mark
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:38 PM
  #29  
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Got one with a muffler one without both 4". There is a pretty good difference in resonation in the cab. The muffler helps a lot IMO. I'm not that old yet but I'm definitely over the unnecessarily loud exhaust part of my life.
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 08:58 PM
  #30  
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I bought a kit without the muffler and got a muffler. I called up DE and they sent me a muffler delete pipe for free.
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