Moving the Over Drive Off switch
04-06-2005, 08:25 PM
#1
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Moving the Over Drive Off switch
Has anyone mounted an OD.off switch on the steering wheel so it is on the idea of the cruise control switch,ideas?
04-06-2005, 08:31 PM
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Here's some info to move it to the end of the automatic shifter lever.
Don't know where I saved it from...but here it is.
****************************************
PART I -
Fellow dieselheads - I've put together the steps for the o/d column lever install, including some tips to ensure nothing shatters in the process!
This is the instruction 'manual' for converting your factory automatic column-mounted gear lever handle to accept the 2nd-gen overdrive lever. This conversion moves the operation of the o/d on-off switch (mounted on the front face of the first gen dash) up to the tip of your auto shift lever. You'll love it, and it takes about 1/2 hour to install.
Mopar Part number: 1-04690522AB. Cost is about $45 from any dealer.
Switch Operation:
In short, there are a bunch of wires on the back of the original switch - one of them is Orange/White stripe - This is the 'trigger wire'. The new lever only has two wires - one to the trigger and one to ground. If you use one of those little blue splice connectors you can tap one of the wires from the new lever (either one) right into the original orange/white wire, and then ground the other wire from the new lever to anywhere on the back of the dash. Be sure to use a small star washer to get a good connection. Game-set-match. Both switches will trigger the o/d, either to on or off depending on what it is curently in, and will also light up the original o/d switch light on the dash. Works great and you get to keep the 'indicator', only you won't have to search for the button!
Column covers:
You will need a small torx bit. When you take apart the plastic covers from your steering column, be VERY CAREFUL not to shatter or crack the plastic. It's real old and real fragile. It doesn't come apart easily, take your time and 'work' it back and forth, applying pressure to separate them. They'll come eventually, but some of the ones that have never been apart are real buggers because two spots are 'pressed' together, much like a tight locating pin on a bellhousing.
Removing the factory lever:
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROLL PIN WITH A HAMMER AND TAP! Use a big set of channel lok pliers to 'squeeze' out the roll pin on the lever itself where it is seated into the column. Put one side of the pliers on the end of the pin sticking out of the bottom, and the other end on the opposite side of the pin but not actually on the pin - slightly off centered. This will not stress the aluminum and will use the housing to counter the force of budging the pin loose. It's tight, but you don't want to use a hammer and punch to initially budge it. Once it is loose (about a 1/4 inch) NOW you can use the punch to lightly tap out the pin. One good smack is better than several little ones. The column doesn't look killer strong, but it'll take a bunch of abuse. Remove the lever, and be sure to note how the little return spring is aligned at the base of the lever. You will want to place the new lever in exactly the same location.
Installing the new o/d lever:
The new lever hooks right in place of the old one. Take note of the position of the original lever in relation to the little return spring (when you pull back on the lever to go into gear it automatically returns to the rearward position via this spring - you'll see it). Once you get the lever to where it looks like it's in, it really isn't. The return spring will be on the back side of the tip of the lever. You'll have to 'convince' it to go in, and when it does you'll know it. Once in place reinstall the roll pin, pointy end down, and squeeze it back in its seat with the channel loc's again.
PART II -
Wiring:
Cut the end plug off of the new lever wires and 'peel' the two wires apart leaving about 4" worth of single wire each. They're really thin, but my truck hasn't burned down yet so I guess it's 'ok'. Pastor Bob, Mark, yer's still in one piece? Anyway, find the orange/white stripe 'feed' wire on the original switch and 'splice' it into either of the new lever wires. The little blue plastic splice connectors work best. You will typically have to add a 6" length wire to the new trigger and ground wires to make the swap have plenty of slack. Slack is good - you can always zip tie it up if you have too much. Now attach the other new wire to ground somewhere most convenient on the inside of your dash. Once you have the wiring hooked up, turn your key to run, not start, and hit the switch. Since our rigs default the o/d operation to 'on', when you hit the switch the [o/d-off] light should illuminate. If the [o/d off] light doesn't come on and the [cargo] light does, go get a beer and try again 'cause ya gots yer wiring a bit jacked up. If the [o/d-off] light comes on, go get two beers and celebrate your wiring prowess! Once celebrations and high-5's are complete, go ahead and put the column back together. If no one is there to celebrate with you, just high-5 yerself on the forehead.
Reassembly of the column covers:
Put the covers back together in reverse order of dissassembly. You might want to slightly hog out the centering hole for the alignment pins - they'll just make you mad again if you ever have to remove them again (I found out some kewl stuff about 2nd gen column pods, so stay tuned about these little plastic covers). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS - they strip easily.
Driving:
Like I need to explain this part. Yer rig will 'feel' like a new one now - Hey, at least it's a Mopar lever that you installed!
Any problems give me a holler or reply. It works great and is much easier to operate.
Hope this all helps y'all - see ya later!
- Sambo
___________
Don't know where I saved it from...but here it is.
****************************************
PART I -
Fellow dieselheads - I've put together the steps for the o/d column lever install, including some tips to ensure nothing shatters in the process!
This is the instruction 'manual' for converting your factory automatic column-mounted gear lever handle to accept the 2nd-gen overdrive lever. This conversion moves the operation of the o/d on-off switch (mounted on the front face of the first gen dash) up to the tip of your auto shift lever. You'll love it, and it takes about 1/2 hour to install.
Mopar Part number: 1-04690522AB. Cost is about $45 from any dealer.
Switch Operation:
In short, there are a bunch of wires on the back of the original switch - one of them is Orange/White stripe - This is the 'trigger wire'. The new lever only has two wires - one to the trigger and one to ground. If you use one of those little blue splice connectors you can tap one of the wires from the new lever (either one) right into the original orange/white wire, and then ground the other wire from the new lever to anywhere on the back of the dash. Be sure to use a small star washer to get a good connection. Game-set-match. Both switches will trigger the o/d, either to on or off depending on what it is curently in, and will also light up the original o/d switch light on the dash. Works great and you get to keep the 'indicator', only you won't have to search for the button!
Column covers:
You will need a small torx bit. When you take apart the plastic covers from your steering column, be VERY CAREFUL not to shatter or crack the plastic. It's real old and real fragile. It doesn't come apart easily, take your time and 'work' it back and forth, applying pressure to separate them. They'll come eventually, but some of the ones that have never been apart are real buggers because two spots are 'pressed' together, much like a tight locating pin on a bellhousing.
Removing the factory lever:
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROLL PIN WITH A HAMMER AND TAP! Use a big set of channel lok pliers to 'squeeze' out the roll pin on the lever itself where it is seated into the column. Put one side of the pliers on the end of the pin sticking out of the bottom, and the other end on the opposite side of the pin but not actually on the pin - slightly off centered. This will not stress the aluminum and will use the housing to counter the force of budging the pin loose. It's tight, but you don't want to use a hammer and punch to initially budge it. Once it is loose (about a 1/4 inch) NOW you can use the punch to lightly tap out the pin. One good smack is better than several little ones. The column doesn't look killer strong, but it'll take a bunch of abuse. Remove the lever, and be sure to note how the little return spring is aligned at the base of the lever. You will want to place the new lever in exactly the same location.
Installing the new o/d lever:
The new lever hooks right in place of the old one. Take note of the position of the original lever in relation to the little return spring (when you pull back on the lever to go into gear it automatically returns to the rearward position via this spring - you'll see it). Once you get the lever to where it looks like it's in, it really isn't. The return spring will be on the back side of the tip of the lever. You'll have to 'convince' it to go in, and when it does you'll know it. Once in place reinstall the roll pin, pointy end down, and squeeze it back in its seat with the channel loc's again.
PART II -
Wiring:
Cut the end plug off of the new lever wires and 'peel' the two wires apart leaving about 4" worth of single wire each. They're really thin, but my truck hasn't burned down yet so I guess it's 'ok'. Pastor Bob, Mark, yer's still in one piece? Anyway, find the orange/white stripe 'feed' wire on the original switch and 'splice' it into either of the new lever wires. The little blue plastic splice connectors work best. You will typically have to add a 6" length wire to the new trigger and ground wires to make the swap have plenty of slack. Slack is good - you can always zip tie it up if you have too much. Now attach the other new wire to ground somewhere most convenient on the inside of your dash. Once you have the wiring hooked up, turn your key to run, not start, and hit the switch. Since our rigs default the o/d operation to 'on', when you hit the switch the [o/d-off] light should illuminate. If the [o/d off] light doesn't come on and the [cargo] light does, go get a beer and try again 'cause ya gots yer wiring a bit jacked up. If the [o/d-off] light comes on, go get two beers and celebrate your wiring prowess! Once celebrations and high-5's are complete, go ahead and put the column back together. If no one is there to celebrate with you, just high-5 yerself on the forehead.
Reassembly of the column covers:
Put the covers back together in reverse order of dissassembly. You might want to slightly hog out the centering hole for the alignment pins - they'll just make you mad again if you ever have to remove them again (I found out some kewl stuff about 2nd gen column pods, so stay tuned about these little plastic covers). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS - they strip easily.
Driving:
Like I need to explain this part. Yer rig will 'feel' like a new one now - Hey, at least it's a Mopar lever that you installed!
Any problems give me a holler or reply. It works great and is much easier to operate.
Hope this all helps y'all - see ya later!
- Sambo
___________
04-07-2005, 12:15 AM
#3
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That looks like SamsRams' write-up from over on TDR. I used it when I installed the later gear lever with the switch - one of the best mods I've ever done.
It should have come this way from the factory....
It should have come this way from the factory....
04-07-2005, 01:35 AM
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Yes I think it is SamsRams.....he has a sweet setup for doing this.
He did an install of a 2nd gen shifter lever on my truck and I REALLY like it. I find that I now "actively manage" my shift selection alot more due to the great convenience factor and not having to hunt and poke for the dash switch while trying to stay in the seat on bumpy roads...much nicer way to do it for sure...
pb....
He did an install of a 2nd gen shifter lever on my truck and I REALLY like it. I find that I now "actively manage" my shift selection alot more due to the great convenience factor and not having to hunt and poke for the dash switch while trying to stay in the seat on bumpy roads...much nicer way to do it for sure...
pb....
05-06-2007, 10:05 PM
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Amendment to instructions
I just did this mod on my '91.5 and here's an amendment I'd like to add.
On a side note, you guys say it costs about $45 at the dealer, it cost me $26 at the dealership.
(I get the employee discount because my Dad works for them hauling cars with their '06 3/4 ton CTD auto w/trailer)
Here you see the new, OD column shifter on top and the original on the bottom.
Here you see the notch that the factory one has compared to the late-model one. It will NOT work without cutting that notch.
No problem for my Dremel tool!!
Note: I had to cut the notch a hair deeper after the first trial fit.
This the OD switch connector. Wire #1 is the orange/yellow stripe wire that is referred to in the above instructions. When I instially touch one wire from the new lever to this wire and one to ground, all it did was momentarilly turn the OD light on for as long as I held the button in. So that wasn't gonna work. Well after a lot of experimenting and head scratching here's what I found out. When one wire was touched to #1 and the other to #3 the OD light would come on and stay one. When I touched the second wire to #2 the light would go out. So, on a hunch, I split the wire strands in one wire and touched both #1 and #2 at the same time while touching the other wire to #3, guess what, it worked! So using the splice connectors I connected one wire to both #1 and #2 and the other wire to #3. This allowed the new column button to turn the OD off and on as it should(while the original OD button is still functional). A test drive confirmed it to be operational.
Last but not least my 4 mo old son, Cody, getting ready to try out daddy's new mod!
Let me add that this mod is DEFFINATELY worth it!!!!
On a side note, you guys say it costs about $45 at the dealer, it cost me $26 at the dealership.
(I get the employee discount because my Dad works for them hauling cars with their '06 3/4 ton CTD auto w/trailer)Here you see the new, OD column shifter on top and the original on the bottom.
Here you see the notch that the factory one has compared to the late-model one. It will NOT work without cutting that notch.
No problem for my Dremel tool!!
Note: I had to cut the notch a hair deeper after the first trial fit.
This the OD switch connector. Wire #1 is the orange/yellow stripe wire that is referred to in the above instructions. When I instially touch one wire from the new lever to this wire and one to ground, all it did was momentarilly turn the OD light on for as long as I held the button in. So that wasn't gonna work. Well after a lot of experimenting and head scratching here's what I found out. When one wire was touched to #1 and the other to #3 the OD light would come on and stay one. When I touched the second wire to #2 the light would go out. So, on a hunch, I split the wire strands in one wire and touched both #1 and #2 at the same time while touching the other wire to #3, guess what, it worked! So using the splice connectors I connected one wire to both #1 and #2 and the other wire to #3. This allowed the new column button to turn the OD off and on as it should(while the original OD button is still functional). A test drive confirmed it to be operational.
Last but not least my 4 mo old son, Cody, getting ready to try out daddy's new mod!
Let me add that this mod is DEFFINATELY worth it!!!!
05-07-2007, 04:27 AM
#7
Registered User
GREAT writeup and pics Danman! 
Another one for the sticky maybe. First time I've ever heard anyone mention having to cut the notch though. I got one off a jucker but haven't installed yet. Whats the deal with the notch?
Another one for the sticky maybe. First time I've ever heard anyone mention having to cut the notch though. I got one off a jucker but haven't installed yet. Whats the deal with the notch?
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06-10-2007, 08:26 AM
#9
Registered User
I tested the switch on the shifter w/OD I got off the junker before I go to the trouble of installing it. It doesn't turn on & off, only off as long as it is held in. Its supposed to either be one or the other right? I'm assuming its bad? The detent appearantly doesn't work huh?
06-11-2007, 04:22 AM
#11
Registered User
Duh 
.
I was focusing on the installation and hadn't reread the final part about hooking it up again. Thats what happens when you get in a hurry.
Thanks again for all the pictures - including the one about the wiring!
.I was focusing on the installation and hadn't reread the final part about hooking it up again. Thats what happens when you get in a hurry.
Thanks again for all the pictures - including the one about the wiring!
07-08-2007, 05:48 AM
#12
Registered User
I swapped mine the other day and didn't have to grind the notch and I was also able to just ground one wire and plug in the other. Mine's a 1992. Wonder why the difference in such close model years?
Only trouble I had was realizing that I had left the little plastic shifter cover thingy off when I was putting the column back together
. Then after putting it all back together AGAIN I realized that the transmission indicator thingy had come off . I see how its supposed to be attached but I was tired of laying on my back and it looks like I'll need to remove the guage cover too...
The OD button works real cool now. I just don't know which gear I'm in...
Only trouble I had was realizing that I had left the little plastic shifter cover thingy off when I was putting the column back together
. Then after putting it all back together AGAIN I realized that the transmission indicator thingy had come off . I see how its supposed to be attached but I was tired of laying on my back and it looks like I'll need to remove the guage cover too...The OD button works real cool now. I just don't know which gear I'm in...
08-26-2008, 05:33 PM
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I just did this swap in my 93 a couple of days ago .When I removed the old shifter it did not have a notch so I did not notch the new one.I also tried splitting the strands and connecting to the two wires .This did not work so I did it like the original post said and it works fine .I like this mod as it is an improvement in the positioning of the OD off button and it uses a dodge part.
