Just so its been asked is the 12mm bolt in the middle of all the injection lines on the back of the pump tight? Its the one you remove when using the dial indicator to set timing, I've had mine leak there, there is a copper washer under the bolt head.

 

Yes, it's frozen tight, along with the 6 supply lines. That's why Im afraid to breath on that direction. I know I will break one or all those lines when I try o loosen them.

 

Does the reseal kit indicate which o-ring goes to which location?

 

No they don't, but honestly not as bad as you are thinking. There are tons of pictures and information just on this site about doing it. Worst part for you maybe digging it out of your motor home. I can't imagine there is much room to work threw the dog house and hood. Start soaking those lines in your favorite penetrating oil, if they are rusted that bad.

 

Just lay out the kit on a nice clean paper towel. Then compare each old O-ring with the new ones and find the one that best matches. They are all relatively different...other then a couple that are very close.

 

Get the PB Blaster out and start coating those lines and fittings. Give it some time and they will come loose.

 

What wrench you guys use for the injector line fittings at the distributor head? Would a slotted (cut a slot enough for the line to pass through) regular 3/4 box wrench work? Just wondering if I need to spend $40 for that flare injector socket.

 

I used a 3/4 and 7/8 combo wrench that had the small section missing for the brake or injector lines "built" right in.
It worked great for breaking the lines off a P-pump I was just working on.
I am sure up could make your own "specialty" tool to get the job done from an old box wrench

 

I bought a cheap set of brake line flare nut wrenches....from 1/4 to 7/8...works great. I think the nuts are actually 17mm though?

 

If you remove the support bracket off the rear of the pump and start at the top working your way counter clockwise you can do it with a normal wrench. the one on the top back, 1 oclock position, is the hardest to reach unless you remove the 4,5,6 lines completely out of your way.Then it will be easy to reach.

 

Having just done mine the lines are 17mm. You can buy the 17mm line wrench and it helps. I ended up buying one then I took a spare 17mm box end and cut a gap in the box plus did some bending to help also. Easiest way to take off is one at a time BUT it a PITA putting back together, you will say things to make a sailor blush. If it was easy everybody would do it plus it probably would have never been invented.

 

Thanks for the 17mm heads up, and brake line set. I will verify the size.

 

17MM is right, now that Thrashingcows mentions it

 

Positive, and verified. It looks to me i need the flare nut tool, so I will order it.

When you loosen the 17mm fittings, it looks like it needs to be countered with with a smaller wrench on the smaller nut on the head. Is that so?

 

I never used a counter wrench...just cracked the big one loose. I can't recall anyone saying that the delivery valves came loose too.