Does anyone have a part number for the low vacumn warning switch located on the drivers side fender? Looks like a hockey puck with a vacumn line and a round electrical connector running into the side of it. Ive been searching at the local parts stores to no avail.

 

www.chryslerpartsdirect.com

Collisionl Catalog
92 Dodge D350
Electrical->Electrical Components->Sensor->Low Vacuum
Not cheap.


Are you sure it's bad? Check it with a meter?

Den

 

No, its bad. The nipple broke off that the vacumn line hooks too. The line is plugged off for now. Thanks

 

OK, educate me. I've noticed that many times, on many vehicles. Never knew exactly what it was for. What is the indication of a problem?

Help me out guys,

Ed

 

On our 1st gens in turns on the brake warning light if the vac. drops too low. Without power brakes they're hard to stop. A bad switch will turn the light on with even good vacuum.

 

Now I know, thanks.

 

>Without power brakes they're hard to stop.
i can attest to that. my vacuum pump died as i was coming off the freeway and right as i realized i had no assist a little civic cuts me off, i gave them a bit of a scare but no damage. the light didnt work anyway...

i broke my vacuum sensor in the same mannor as monty, after seeing the price at the dealer and the fact mine didnt work i think ill wait on replacing it, its pretty obvious when you have no vacuum anyway. if you find any that are reasonable priced id be intrested.

 

Could that be why my brake light comes on a lot while driving?

 

Yes it could. Check to make sure there are no cracks or breaks in the plastic nipple. Be careful though, it breaks real easy.

 

I'm not touching mine then!

Hey Monty, if you know a decent auto parts store that still has paper catalogs, you can look through the specs in the back and find a vacuum swith that will work. Hopefully your local NAPA guy is friendly. The spec on the switch is 8.5 inches of vacuum.

 

Thanks Dave. I might try drilling and tapping out the hole left and putting a brass nipple and see if that works. Heck, its broke now anyway, wont hurt nothin.

 

My light used to come on sometimes at a stop with my foot on the brake. Mine turned out to be the brake booster. It's got double diaphrams and one was bad. Like having half power brakes. They worked, but took more effort. I could also hear a slight leak. Booster was around $80 and easy to replace.


Den

 

You mean the light isn't supposed to come on when you ues the brakes? Guess I better check into this.

 

Would that cause the ABS to shut off, if that vacuum switch kicks in? MY "BRAKE" and "ANTI-LOCK" lights are both on (and they used to occasionally come on when I was stopped, but if I took my foot off the brake and/or revved the engine they shut off) and my ABS doesn't work. Haven't gotten around to pulling codes yet.. Does the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON key trick work for ABS codes, or just the engine computer codes?

 

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd check the booster and the connection on the cruise actuator. It was leaking on mine. There was a split on the bottom of the tubing where you couldn't see it until it was removed from the actuator.

The RWAL codes come from the controller by grounding a connector with the key in the one position.

Here is a post I made with the error codes.

There is a correction though. I made a mistake in the original post (Attn: Spunbearing ). The connector is behind the glovebox with the RWAL controller. It's a pigtail coming off near the RWAL main connecotor and is taped to the main harness. There is one pin in a 2 pin connector. This is the one you need to use to do the tests. I just went out and verified the connecotr is there.

Den