I was in the process of swapping oil pans ( rusty and weeping) and knew a bolt would give me trouble. The problem is five of them are so rusted the shape is gone. Its an awkward spot, but i tried vice grips and they just shred whats left. I soaked em, heated them, etc. The only other idea I have is to weld a nut on them so i can turn em, but my welder ain't ready yet, does anyone have another idea, otherwise I gotta wire up my welder for 220. Thanks.

 

Drill out the center of the bolt trying not to get in to the threads. Use a punch to collape the remaining threads in on it's self.

 

Take a old socket of a smaller size, something that barely fits over the bolt head and beat it on with a hammer. It will be tight and the action of beating it on will also help jar the bolt possibly loosening the junk in the threads.
I have done this on some pretty stubborn bolts that I rounded off with the "right" size socket and it has worked.

hope it works for you or someone else has a better suggestion

Ryan

 

At the tire shop, we have to use the "beat-on-a-12-point-socket" trick almost every day to get off those wheel-locks that have no key.


In your case, I would invest in a set of those reverse spiral dig-in-the-nut thingies that everyone is talking about.

Craftsmen has them, Irwin too, I think.

The way these sockets work is that the sharp internal spirals dig into the bolt-head/nut and the harder you turn, the tighter they hold.

 

I like that idea, I tried the beat on a metric socket like Ryan suggested and they just keep stripping. I ll try those new sockets, didn't know they existed. Thanks. I guess they're like a little pipe wrench? Thats what i wanted to use but couldn't get it on there. Thanks again guys. Its nice having all these different outlooks, as I tend to get stuck in one path of thinking.

 

If all else fails, I usually resort to drilling out the center of the bolt and pounding in an "easy-out" they are a square steel peg looking thing with a tapered end and sharp edges that bite the inside of the drilled out hole in the "lefty-loosey" direction. They are a bit of a hassle but almost always work. I would try the socket idea though i like that.

 

I would try that first before even thinking about putting a drill near them. I have a set here and I've used them on many things and they do work well, usually use the impact gun with them so I get the hammering action too.

If that doesn't work I would try the weld a nut on trick, we use that on broken manifold bolts all the time.

 

If you must drill out. Use a left handed bit

 

I will second that. The left hand bit might actually back the bolt out at the same time. Drill only as a last resort like the others said.

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...yword=easy+out

click the site above, ive used them many tims, always useful for something. the just lock onto a rounded bolt without drilling or anything and it comes right out with ease

 

wire up your welder and weld on a nut the heat really helps and you will have another project done. or make a jumper cord from your ddryer outlet to your garage.

 

Well thanks much for all the ideas. The welder still wouldn't run...only 100 amp service( need to upgrade the whole house) I borrowed a set of Blue Point extractors and they worked great. They have a hex on the outside so i could turn the ones between the crossmember and the pan. That feature was a great help. Not sure if the Craftsman set has that? These are impact grade, which the lendee said i would apreciate as he cracked the Sears model. I highly suggest these! Thanks again all! I spent an hour yeterday with 0 successs and 15 mins tonite.