1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

lock up?

Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:42 AM
  #16  
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From: Goshen, Ky
Originally Posted by T Lozano
you mean that I must have the 518-727 or that it won't fit the truck? Oh and if its upgraded and fits is the 618 (47rh) a lock up?
Your truck is a '93, so you have a 518. Yes a 47rh will fit, and yes it is a lock up transmission.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:01 PM
  #17  
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Great, hopefully I can find one ready and I won't have the expense of aftermarket parts, now that I am in need of turbo also. Thank You all for the info.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #18  
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From: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Have you tried a decent torque converter yet? A good converter is a world apart from the OEM pile...

Your going to have a considerable amount of money in the 47RH conversion. It is not a plug and play swap either, I would check the stickies and do some homework.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 11:42 PM
  #19  
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Will do
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:09 PM
  #20  
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From: Central Mi
Originally Posted by sdstriper
Have you tried a decent torque converter yet? A good converter is a world apart from the OEM pile...

Your going to have a considerable amount of money in the 47RH conversion. It is not a plug and play swap either, I would check the stickies and do some homework.
IT's not ?!?!?

Mine was - I plugged in $$$$ and then played with the result

Seriously tho the trans rebuild will set you back 1500 - 2200 depending on how far you go.
The install requires a 94-95 engine adapter and starter. You will have to move the rear trans mount toward the rear ~ 1". My driveshaft had enough spline showing that it was all taken up after the install, could be due to the split driveshaft; I've heard some have had to shorten the driveshaft.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:53 PM
  #21  
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Question

When changing engine adapter, would I need to zero it in like the flywheel housing on a NTC 350
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 06:57 AM
  #22  
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i don't know anything about the NTC 350 but changing the adapter plate is just a matter of unbolting the old and putting the new back on. It can only go on in one position.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 08:21 AM
  #23  
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I see, on a big Cummins I have to use a dial indicator mounted on the crank and touching the housing to zero it in just thought I'd ask Thank You.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:51 AM
  #25  
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If you haven't done it already, don't forget to upgrade the flex-plate. The second gen. plates are a lot stronger and don't break as easily.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:00 PM
  #26  
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I read somewhere the new 6.7 68RFE flexplates are pretty awesome as well.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #27  
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From: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Originally Posted by txs
I don't know if the big cummins flywheel housings are doweled, the 3bt, 4bt,6bt series motors are doweled in 2 of the mounting bolt holes. Since the auto trannies have an integral bell you have to have a bare case and sweep the pump bore to check the register. The chryco gasser motors had a solid dowel and offset ones were available if needed, the lakewood bells were notorious for being off on the register, the b series cummins have a hollow dowel so the mounting bolt can go through it, don't know if there are offset hollow dowels.
A few years ago I saw mysteryman comment on this.
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