Hi guys I said it was my headlight swich but I just got done changing it and it did not fix my problom. Can some one please post up a wiring diagram of he headlight swich wires im going to go ahead and hard wire my park lights on a togle swich? Any help would be alsome and thanks for all the help you guys have already given...

 

Is it still blowing the fuse?

 

Yes but I can turn the headlight swich on just barly and it will turn on my park/cab lights, but when I go to turn it to my headlights it shuts off my park/cab lights

 

Here ya go:

 

WOW Now i know I cant do this...Where do I start I just want my lights to work

 

Thanks for the charts but I cant read them Can some one please give me a dummy version of this you know like the red wire goes here and so on

 

The wire colors are on the diagram. BK is black, RD is red, PK RD is pink with a red stripe, etc...

The terminals on the switch are labeled such as B2 etc...

The problems with the headlight switch are legendary and usually caused by the spade type connectors and the brass rivets they use for contacts inside the switch. What happens there is the rivet/terminal joint gets loose and starts heating up and eventually it fails completely and/or burns the switch up. I replaced the switch in my truck with two toggle switches. I kept the circuit breaker built into the switch and the Instrument panel reostat. Works fine now.

Edwin

 

If it's still blowing the fuse you need to look for a short somewhere. You have a wire that's pinched or has rubbed through.

 

I swer Iv looked every where for a short and I replaced what wires I did find and it still blows the fuse.

 

Im starting to hate this truck I dont care if I did get it for $500!!! This is pissing me off

Stuff that dont work:
1. Power windows
2. Power locks
3. The low fuel lite
4. The whte to start lite
5. Cab Lights
5. Park Lights
6. Temp Guage
7. Cargo Light

 

don't let wiring get you down. the truck was a smart buy. i know it can be frustrating but wiring stuff takes time.. keep at it i will help in any way i can (unfortunately not a lot right now)

 

Have you checked the fusible links under the drivers side hood hinge? Or maybe thats only for the 91.5 and newer. But if all of that doesn't work than maybe a bunch of them are burned out.

 

If you have a short circiut (blowing fuses) I would start by process of elimination, first figure out wich number fuse it is, just as an example, in the top pic fuse #8 (20 amp). Once you know wich fuse it is you can identify wich electrical components are using this fuse. Then one by one start unplugging components, (start with the easiest to get to first), e.g., tail lamps, parking lamps, dash cluster(dash lights), etc. I`d be willing to guess that it`s actually something simple such as a bad bulb in one of the tail lights (been there). Good luck and don`t be overwhelmed, just take it one step ata time

 

Ok guys thanks ill get back to yall tomarow on what iv found out

 

Before I retired, I worked as a heavy diesel mechanic and automotive electrician for the county of Los Angeles. electrical has always been easy for me because of my electrical, electronics background. Finding a short circuit in the truck, fire truck, coach, automotive world is always pretty challenging to most people. Over the years I have developed various methods from simple to hi-tech and I have an array of tone/ signal injectors and recievers for diffrent applications now that the work I do is computer related.

Here is a very simple method to locate a short circuit in a wiring harness.
First you will need a device that is called a "non contact ammeter" or "induction ammeter" it is the kind that is used by simply holding the little 2" or so meter across the starter wire and read the amperage induced by the magnetic field in the wire. I have several Snap-on and K&D tools,they are cheap.

http://jcsonlinetoolshed.com/product.php/14623/938/

Check your local auto parts store.
Then the important part you will need to buy is a 10 amp self resetting type circuit breaker that you can get from your local truck parts store, should be a few bucks.
Next connect 2 pigtails about 12" long into the breakers 2 10x32 screw terminals and insulate the terminals so essentally you have a breaker with 2 14ga. wires connected. Now if you are working with the new fuses crimp on a pair of 1/4" male spade terminals to these wires. take a pair of snips and cut the width of the male spade by 1/2 so they will fit into the place where the blown fuse is on the block. Get the idea?

Now we are going to find the short circuit.
Remove the blown fuse and plug in the circuit breaker then turn on the circuit, the breaker will start cycling on and off repeadly, this will not burn anything out because it is cycling fast. This is why you use a 10 amp.

NOW take your "non contact ammeter" and simply follow the wiring harness gliding along the surface starting at the battery to the bulkhead connector, under the dash covering all of the wiring to the back bumper.
Now notice that the needle on the little meter will be flicking to either side (jumping) Understand that because their is a dead short, everytime the breaker opens you are creating a strong EMP "electro magnetic pulse" in the wire as the field collapses in the wiring.

Now here is the trick, as you are following the wiring suddenly the needle will STOP flicking as it was.
You have just found the location of the SHORT because you now see the wire is at ground potential with no more wire to induce a magnetic field.

I have used this method many times and it will even work through metal if it is close to the surface.
I swear to you this system is ultra simple and it WORKS.

I have included a link where you can buy the meter but you can even use a DECENT COMPASS (just kinda hold it level), you are only following a EMP through a wire as I said, when it stops you found the ground point.

Anyone with any basic electrical knowledge should understand.

When I first started with the county, they had a 40 foot coach new from the factory and when you turned on the MASTER , the lighting fuse would instantly blow, came from AM General this way. All of the hot shot mechanics tried to fix it as it is now 6 months of failure.
We were all eating lunch in it and they were talking bout how they were going to send it back to the MFG.
I said I will find the problem and I will take less than 30 min. They all thought I was a lot of talk so they said OK
I set up my system as they all watched. I started at the master switch and then went to the outside of the coach. I followed the wiring harness along the outside of the aluminum body and came to the back of the coach where the surge tank/ coolant fill was. I opened the door and said " THE SHORT IS RIGHT HERE" everyone looking in disbelief, I reached in and pulled back the wiring harness to show where the harness was riveted and shorted to the bulkhead.
I drilled out the rivets and cleared the harness. THE LIGHTS NOW WORKED!

I swear to you that this is true and it works.
I know how frusterating it is when you cannot find a problem.
Give it a try. Jim.