Keeping charge pipes on?
Keeping charge pipes on?
Took my POS out for a little flogging tonight. Held her at about 40 PSI (pyro wouldn't break 1100*
) and the main charge pipe from the large turbo into the smaller one popped off at the small turbo inlet. I layed a TIG bead on all the ends of the pipe, kind of like a poor man's bead roller, and they have been fine. What else can I do to keep this on? I have all high quality silicone hoses with the T bolt clamps. If it won't stay on at 40 PSI, then it won't stay on when I floor it with water/meth and with the KSB on (I'm guessing 50 PSI or so). I've heard that installing it with hairspray helps, but will it fix the problem?
) and the main charge pipe from the large turbo into the smaller one popped off at the small turbo inlet. I layed a TIG bead on all the ends of the pipe, kind of like a poor man's bead roller, and they have been fine. What else can I do to keep this on? I have all high quality silicone hoses with the T bolt clamps. If it won't stay on at 40 PSI, then it won't stay on when I floor it with water/meth and with the KSB on (I'm guessing 50 PSI or so). I've heard that installing it with hairspray helps, but will it fix the problem?
No. The part that popped off was the intake into the top turbo (where the air filter tube goes on a stock truck). There is no bead there or anything, just flat surface. Sorry if I wasn't clear in my first post. Where ever I have layed a bead or that has a bead rolled surface hasn't popped off. I really don't want to try and weld anything on that junky, cast aluminum compressor housing.
This may not help much on a rougher casting, but on shiny pipes hitting it with some coarse sand paper to rough it up always helps, and the hairspray trick does indeed work.
I had some couplers on my 95 Eclipse that kept slipping at anything over 30 psi. In this case it was typical aluminumized exhaust piping reducer cones. Just the sandpaper alone was enough to keep them on at 40 psi. Clamping force (from tbolt clamps for example) will only do so much, you need to help create the friction that ultimately prevents the sliding action.
I had some couplers on my 95 Eclipse that kept slipping at anything over 30 psi. In this case it was typical aluminumized exhaust piping reducer cones. Just the sandpaper alone was enough to keep them on at 40 psi. Clamping force (from tbolt clamps for example) will only do so much, you need to help create the friction that ultimately prevents the sliding action.
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If you have a friend that has a large enough engine lathe, he could cut some grooves in the housing where the hose clamps, like that on a hose barb. The grooves wouldn't need to be deep, just sharp like an armory or buttress thread.
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