Yesterday I was driving from Tucson to Phoenix (about 100 miles) towing a car and trailer with my 93 1 ton dually CTD bone stock except for veg oil secondary tank. About halfway the truck started lurching intermittantly and cutting out power to where pressing on the pedal had no effect. Several times I had to put it in neutral and restart it and I couldn't accelerate with it cutting out like that. Well I limped into the nearest town and changed the primary filter (I had switched to diesel right away by this time). I was able to change filters no problem and for the next 20 miles it seemed okay but then it started lurching and cutting out again so I suspected the lift pump (still original style diaphram pump) which I changed this morning to the upgraded piston pump after I was able to limp back home. Well it is still cutting out on acceleration and seems to be getting worse because I was not able to restart it without a small shot of starting fluid under the front bumper intake and cracking the injector lines. Is there anything in the IP that could cause these symptoms or am I sucking in air from somewhere (I have isolated the vegetable lines completely and it is solely on diesel for now). The truck only has about 130K it wouldn't be time for an IP rebuild would it. It seemed to have a leak from the IP awhile ago from this rubber cover thing with a vent hole in it (I"ll try to post a pic but it stopped almost that same day so I didn't think much of it, does anyone know the piece on the IP I'm talking about?) The truck has been running great prior to this trip and I had been using it regularly. Sorry for the length of this post and I really haven't been able to find anything on my searches but I also don't really know where to go next. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Don.

 

Check the connection on the shutoff solenoid first. That causes a lot of trouble if it's loose.

Before condemning the IP, plumb a short length of clear hose before the lift pump. Look for bubbles in the fuel. If you have bubbles, fix your air leak and all will be right with the world.

 

I'd also try a fresh fuel supply.. other than the tank... there are some major restrictions in the tank...
I think is a 5/32 hole in the pick up tube in the tank..

 

I agree with Dave,check the fuel shut off if it steel has the factor wire end cut it off an replace it with a new end. When they get old they lose connection.

 

Someone else posted a picture of eliminating the spade-connector and crimping on a RING-connector, screwing this directly to the stud on the solenoid.

If you look at the solenoid, there is a nut (8mm wrench) that holds the spade end of the connection to the end of the solenoid.

Remove the nut, take off the terminal, and replace with the RING-terminal, then put back on the nut.

DO NOT DROP THE LITTLE BITTY NUT, unless you have an arsenal of magnets and a jar-full of extra nuts.

 

The symptons that you are describing is a VE44 pump beginning to fail. Just had my 92 redone at 110,000. The shop said they see this pump between 120,000-150,000 often. Mine was pretty bad inside, broken springs, grooves from rollers not able to withstand the diesel of today. The truck never gave up. Drove it over to the shop. I had to buy a different housing cause I waited to long. They said the pump was ready to grenade. Theres a filter in the tank. Its like a big bagel, but plastic. Check that first and flush the tank if it looks bad. Change the filter and give it a try. If not, rebuild time.

PS-If and when you have it rebuilt, have it calibrated to the high side. That means of Bosch specs for reliabilty), and put the 3200 spring in. The $15. spring alone will make that engine run right. (thnks Greg) lol. Itll run like a new truck, and have you grinnin ear to ear.

 

I thought we had a VE pump, and the 24-valvers got the VE44?????

 

The 24 valves have a VP44. Ours is just a plain old VE pump.

 

The VE44 is a mechanical pump, where the VP44 has electrics on top of it for hooking up to computer controlling. The VP44 cost a whole bunch more also.

 

Never heard it called a VE44...
A fun site to look at for VE's..
http://www.vepump.cn/

By far different pumps.. same job..

 

The same thing happened to me in January. A bad O-ring where the action pin goes into the AFC housing was letting fuel into the housing, then it leaked out that vent. My truck did the same stuttering and losing power under acceleration thing. It would quit me on the side of the road and then when I got back it would start up fine. You can order a Bosch seal kit and do the repair without removing the whole pump, just the top.

 

Well to all those that suggested the shutoff solenoid electrical connection give your self
pat on the back and I am very grateful for all the help and suggestions. Even the replies that it wasn't give me heads up for the future. I found the connection by accident when I barely pulled on it and it fell off replaced both wires with a ring connector and it ran great from Tucson to Phoenix and back. I am back to loving these trucks again. Also the image of the vent thing on the IP is attached what is this and should I reseal it if it leaked once, is it supposed to leak given the design of the rubber boot?Thanks, Don.

 

Good Deal Don... Glad it was the easy thing...

 

That is the AFC vent, it keeps pressure or vacuum from developing in the bottom side of the AFC. Nothing should come out but air.

 

The aforementioned o-ring (john Mule) leaks, casuing the AFC "well" to fill and runneth over, spilling out the vent. Get it rebuilt, or at the very least, reseal the pump. The ULSD and age compound each other. Local shop in Jackson has been swamped since last fall with leaking pumps.

Mom's 92 did the same thing. I had been telling her for 2 years the pum pwasnt right, but it started and ran, so she left it alone. MPG was down to 13empty, and I noticed the same leak. She got it rebuilt (I gave the shop the numbers I wanted run), and I got 17 INTOWN (<50mph 90% of the time) flooring it off the line from EVERY light or stop sign I came to (518 tranny is going south 14K after rebuild and the shop wont honor their "warranty"- another story for another day).

ALways check the simple stuff first. Start cheap (to fix/ replace) and work your way up.

Daniel