ClassA4x4

Today I took out my injection pump for the second time to fix my mistakes last week when I put it together after I resealed the pump and the engine wouldnt start. Today after reassembly and install of the pump, I noticed that the chisel marks don't line up. Also the afc line is half inch away from its banjo hole. That's after removing the gear lash. Looks like the pump is tilted away from the block (retarded).

Now my question is: is it possible for the drive gear to skip a tooth when wiggling the gear (note: the gear is kind a loose inside) when inserting a piece of rag? I pulled the rag from the front to cover that gap behind the gear and in the process I gently pushed the gear forward.

The pump is still locked, so tomorrow I will loosen the pump mount and see if I can rotate it to line up with the mark. I looked at the keyway in front and it's difficult to tell whether the key is there or not.

Of course the only other cause that I can think of is if the woodruff key fell out or misaligned/mashed.

thrashingcows

The gear should most certainly not be loose...especially after bolting to your pump. Most likely that darn key got smashed, fell out, or ?. I know I've had to pull the front cover and mess around for some time to get that gear on the pump, with keyway perfect, and timing marks all lined up.

ClassA4x4

I meant the gear is loose when the pump is off it. It can be wiggled around about 1/8 inch or so from the pump hole. It's tight once the nut is tightened, except with a slight gear lash.

Now I think the gear keyway is still at 5:30, so it's more likely that the shaft is not inserted right or the pump is tensioned to the driver side. HTomorrow I will probe a piece of wire into the keyway to feel if there's any trace of the key being there. I will also loosen the mounting bolts andtry reposition the pump, while it is still locked.

Do you know how thick the drive gear is? I will measure how far the wire goes in.

I hate the thought of removing the front gear cover. Last time I did it, the engine was off the vehicle, before the swap.

thrashingcows

Well it's possible to skip a tooth when messing around getting the pump/gear all lined up. Try and get a flash light, and mirror to see where the timing marks are.

ClassA4x4

Just in case the key fell into the gear case, what's the procedure to retrieve it?

ClassA4x4

How fine are the teeth on the gear? The keyway still seemed to be still at 5:30. If it skipped a tooth, would it be like 5:45 one way or 5:15 the other way or more?

Also, when i look into the keyway (using an inspection mirror) I should see the brown front seal if the keyway is empty. When I did that this afternoon I didn't see the seal, instead I saw a shiny thing like the one I saw last time I installed the pump, so I thought it was good ... until I tightened the pump mounting nuts and noticed things were not lined up as before.

thrashingcows

Teeth are pretty coarse...shouldn't skip too easily. If the key has fallen then you will have to open the timing case to get it out....

But if everything looks close, then make sure you unlock your pump before trying to rotate it.

ClassA4x4

So with the teeth being coarse if it skipped a tooth then the keyway would be at 6:00 or beyond? It doesnt look like it.

F the key fell, can I fish the key from underneath with the oil pan removed? It's easy to remove my oil pan - mh is lifted and lots of clearance underneath.

thrashingcows

Well you decided....I don't think so though.

Smokin$$away

A little trick I learned was to paint a thin red line on the pump shaft and the end of the key so I could see it easily with the mirror and flashlight. Being my first time to do this I was sweating the possibility of dropping/losing the key. If your key fell into the pan you might take a big magnet and drag it to the drain plug, but not sure what obstacles are in the pan to keep it from sliding. Just an idea and good luck with it!!

ClassA4x4

TC, thank you for the picture. That gear is a big one. Basing on the picture, Yeah when the pump is out the gear is loose and can move, so when I lifted it a bit to pull the piece of rag that was inserted from the front, it could have dropped one tooth down because of the weight - BUT that would have had an effect of rotating the pump toward the block, not away as I have now. It wouldn't make sense.

It's a long way for a little piece to make its way from the gear to the pan. The key would be caught on those ridges. . . I'll have to remove everything (rad, coolers, intercooler, condenser, grille, etc.) in front to get to the gear cover. I have good access to the pump from the doghouse but impossibe to peek at the front cover from anywhere.

I just hope that key is still in its slot. I'll find out today. Next time, i'll superglue it before installing the pump. I wish I could just tig weld it in there. Why not?

ClassA4x4

Yeah, tig weld that key, quench it immediately so the front seal will not melt.

Once tig welded there wont be any anxiety pushing, pulling, rotating the pump, fearing lost key when engaging the shaft to the gear kleyway. What do you think?

Smokin$$away

I don't think I'd weld it! A few guys on here have installed their pumps and "thought" they had it correct but was off by just a bit and ruined the key! My spare pump had the key installed about a quarter of the key off and it was cut down to the shaft. Good luck on your project.

ClassA4x4

Yeah, that's what I "thought I had it correct" too because I was so afraid to twist the pump while sticking it in, for fear the key would fall off. Really stupid . . . design :-)

Smokin$$away

I just went out and looked at my 2 new spare keys I bought a few weeks ago and they have like a swollen lip on each side in the center on the sides. I'm guessing when you tap the key into the keyway slot it wedges in the shaft so it wont fall out as easily. If yours is not like that maybe you can take a sharp punch and dimple the sides of the key to make it fit more snug, just a thought!!