Jim - 1. How did you re-wire your windows independant of the ignition run setting? 2. Is the "tar board" like 4x8 Celotex for houses? 3. Why the master "start/stop" switch?

 

Ok...Since I am completely jelious of Jims interior, being it is nicer than my brand new truck and my 92 project still looks like heck... I thought I would throw these out of my wheelin/fun truck... Unfortunately it doesn't have a cummins, but the interior is pretty cool!!!









All the wireing is custom, the only stock wires I used was the harness coming out of the steering wheel and the pigtails of some accessories.. Each switch is on it's own military syle breaker.. It was a lot of work but I love the way it works and my favorite is the center console with the ratchet shifter... By far the best mod ever...

 

DNR, thats an awesome truck, only thing that could make it better is a 4BT. hehehe

 

UMM I know i am going to take heat for this one What is Jizzer stand for ... window washers ??? and wow nice job that looks lik a Baja truck oh and how about a truck picture to go with these cab pictures ??
{edit} nice truck i looked on the pub profile

 

Yup...jizzer is the washer fluid..lol I added a few pics... Thanks 4 the compliments...

I have another donor truck with a 12v for it one day and 440 core in the shed but 4 now the screamin 360 just won't die!!

 

DNR---
If you've got one of the older 360's based on the 318 ---
Bite the bullet and install the 12v. If that 360 is anything like my 318's you're looking at ~ 275K - 300K; that's when both of mine gave up in my '81. Then I installed a 440 to pull my 40' 5th wheel for another 125K before I sold it in '89 and bought an '87.

 

well the motor is an 85, I Know it will probably never die, But I sure to try like heck. No rev limiter and she likes 6000rpm going up the hills at the dunes...lol

I really would like to see 12v in it but a built 440 might be more practical with the gears and everything... I don't know...It is on the backburner anyway, I am full bore on my 92 to get it on the road..

 

Is there any place I can still get new interior parts for my truck? Door panels, window switches, trim pieces, etc.

 

Jc whitney has door pannels, I know that for sure.. But trim pieces?? I am in the same boat, I found a donor truck but the guy is not coperating...So, maybe the salvage yards..

 

Here is the only pic of mine I have, it durty but functional.

 

#1) Rewiring the power windows to work without the ignition being on is easy. In this picture of the fuse panel on the right side above the burned A/C Htr fuse is the Windows Fuse.

All that is needed is to remove the fuse and then insert a 14-gauge minimum jumper wire with a male spade terminal into the LOAD side where the fuse was removed and then on the opposite end of the jumper crimp on a .250 Female Spade Terminal and insert the blade of a 20 amp ATO fuse, now fashion another jumper from the remaining fuse terminal to a source that is always HOT on the fuse panel.

Simply you just need to supply a fused HOT to the LOAD side of the removed fuse.



I just wanted to show you what my slightly modified fuse panel looks like.



#2) Tar Board is a sound deadening material that is used at the factory to line the floorboard on some cars and trucks to help lower the inside noise, it is under the carpeting and padding if there is any.

It looks like 2 layers of 180# roofing felt that are impregnated with tar and then a clean layer on the topside. It is usually about 3/8” thick Black and sticky on the bottom.

Come to think of it you might try and lay down 3 or 4 layers of Torch Down roofing material onto the floorboard under your carpet.

No need to heat it but just lay it down and form the curves over the hump.
It is heavy and should attenuate the low frequencies and keep the floorboard from resonating, try this under your carpet.

#3) Why the Master Stop/ Start Switch?

Well first off I think every truck should have one, most of the heavy equipment and transit coaches have them, it just feels natural to get in, turn on the Master Switch and then push the START button, same to stop the engine you just move the switch to STOP and the engine stops and all of the accessories remain on.

I have wanting to install mine for a while but I was searching for the parts with the right feel and after browsing around at Grainger’s I found one.

But after having to replace my ignition switch and lock cylinder after the key seized and my switch burned up literally I thought this would be the perfect cure and also I was trying to address 2 other issues,

A) Allow me to shut down the engine without causing my alarm to automatically unlock my doors like when I go through a drive through for safety and.

B) I have a DVD player in the truck and every time you interrupt the circuit the DVD has to restart and find where it left off.

This solved both of my problems, now I can pull up to the speaker, and turn the **** to the LEFT to stop the engine and order, put it in neutral and then with a turn to the Right of the switch restart the engine.

The doors were never unlocked and the DVD movie was never interrupted.

When I get into the truck it feels so natural to use the switch that I hardly ever even unconsciously turn the key past ON.

I am surprised it never made it to a sticky.

Jim

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=197607

 

What a cool easy upgrade! I always hated not being able to use the windows unless the motor was running. Never investigated to see it was that easy to "re-wire".

The roofing material is a good idea too. How expensive is the tar board and where did you get it?

So your on/off switch has replaced your key ignition completely? Or the key has to be on?

As usual, great work and indepth explinations.

 

The Tar Board was already on the truck when I bought it; I think it will probably be on the LE editions because they come with carpeting.
I used to buy it at places where I got parts for Hot VW’s and Custom Car parts but I have not bought any in awhile.

For my Stop/ Start switch I left the ignition switch enabled because I wanted it to still lock my steering wheel but you could bypass the key switch and have anything that could trigger the relay that switched the IGN circuit Off and ON.

You could easily install a simple rotary Master Switch or a hidden toggle if you wanted.
I was thinking more in the line of a Digital Key Switch, Card Reader or a Proximity Switch where you carry the transmitter and you have to be within a certain range of the truck to activate the switch.
Jim