Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93

Can someone post more pictures of how the system hooks up to the truck? How do the relays hook up to the headlight switch? I’m just kind of confused how the whole thing hooks up. Seems like a good write up, just a dummy like me who doesn’t understand much about electrical is confused without more pics on how it hooks up to the truck.

Originally Posted by NJTman

Pictures ? Don't think I have any...

The relays are hooked up to the battery (preferably through a fuse panel that you add to the under hood area) where they draw their power. The headlamp wiring that is already in the truck is simply used as the "trigger" point, so when you unplug the driver side headlamp, you test the port to see what part of that plug does what ? Low beam, vs High beam. One feed will trigger the relay to connect power from the battery to the headlamps through a #12 wire, making the low beams work. The other feed will do the same for the high beams. This means that when you're in the truck, and you turn on your headlamps, the plug you removed from the back of the headlamp ( I used the driver side only), turns on the relay, which then sends power back to the headlamp through the new #12 wire.

Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93

I guess when I get ready to do it I’ll have to read through this whole thread more carefully then. If I’m understanding correctly now the wires that go into the relays are coming from one of the stock plugs?

Originally Posted by Jim Lane

Or wow these are bright.

Geez,
I cannot believe it has been this long, It was back in November of 2007 that I brought this write-up to all of my friends here.

My relays have been working flawlessly and as designed for over SEVEN years now.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...relays-176263/

I had designed them to complement my Sylvania Silver Star H6054 headlamps and it did so with unparalleled brightness but I soon learned they had such a high output, by pushing the hot filament at 13.8 volts, so now they are extremely bright but they do not last very long, for me only about 8 months for the pair.

I have also installed my 160-amp Leece Neville alternator to charge my 5 onboard batteries, with my 10-gauge wiring to my headlamps the voltage at the socket is 14.0 volts and is limited to 30 amps so needless to say, they can be very bright, yet it is a controlled beam, nothing like the ricers with the blinding blue HID's in cheap composite housings.

But $60.00 every 8 months was starting to add up and I figured at some point I needed to make a decision on a different kind of light, my dream of a Zenarc HID system was crushed by the $1000.00 price tag, eventually I will get my LED's headlamps but for now Composite Housings

I wanted to try the new Silver Star Ultras so I bought a pair of Autopal composites off e-bay and I figured for the price they would probably be junk, and they are, beam pattern is crappy and a lot of flare but the ultras work great.
I got the Ultras from Auto Zone for $60.00 with a $10.00 rebate and a replacement warranty, bring them back and they give me new ones.

Attachment 51099

Here is the back side of the Autopal, with a standard H-4 lamp.
For these to fit, I had to trim out the buckets using a Greenlee gutter punch

Attachment 51100

It is very important to install and secure the weatherproof dust cover to keep out the dust and moisture from inside the housing.

Attachment 51101

Here are my relays, yes I have 4 of them, one relay for each lamp.

I switched out one of the Bosch relays for the Tyco to check an issue but it has since been changed back.

Attachment 51102

Here is where my relays reside, when you install your relays, think about how water is going to roll off the hood and onto the relays and install a shield to protect them since it doesn't rain in California no worry here

Attachment 51103

Ok, here is the wall I adjust my lights on, when you get closer, all of my marks are there, I just backup 25 feet and aim the lamps.

As you can see, there is a lot of flare above the cutoff line but I guess still not bad for housings made in India.

Attachment 51104

And then here are the high beams.
About the lights, I can sit into oncoming traffic into a city police car and they do not blink their lights at me to dim mine so I take that as their approval.

Attachment 51105

Looking into the face of the lamp.

Attachment 51106

And since I have this awesome lighting on the front of my truck, you know I am going to have awesome lights out the back also.


Attachment 51107

I just wanted to remind you how much this modification will improve your forward lighting, even if you only have regular halogen lamps this will make them much brighter and much safer to drive and take virtually all of the load off your headlight switch, going from amperes to only milliamperes.

As I had mentioned, plug and play,
You can build this on your kitchen table and then take it outside and plug it in, and then go out tonight and play.

Might try a pair of these.
003427291 Hella - H4 Headlight Conversion Kit At StylinTrucks.com

Jim

Originally Posted by edwinsmith

Here's the kit I bought on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do a search on Amazon for "Headlight relay kit" you can get much cheaper prices.

The kit I got just plugged into the existing headlight plug on the left side. I bolted the relays to the core support and connected the ground and the power directly to the battery through a 30 amp circuit breaker that didn't come in the kit.

I also bought some Hella Vision Plus headlights with replaceable bulbs and I put in 100/80 watt bulbs. Really makes a difference.

Edwin

Originally Posted by MrFusion

I built the Jim Lane version because it is heavier duty than the one on Amazon and uses a more standard heavier duty relay. The one on Amazon is probably fine and it WAS a PITA for me to source all of the parts. I just wanted something I didn't have to worry about.

Originally Posted by MrFusion

I built the Jim Lane version because it is heavier duty than the one on Amazon and uses a more standard heavier duty relay. The one on Amazon is probably fine and it WAS a PITA for me to source all of the parts. I just wanted something I didn't have to worry about.

Originally Posted by edwinsmith

I certainly understand that! Did you get high temp sockets for the bulbs? That way you can use the high output bulbs like I did without burning up the sockets.

Edwin

Originally Posted by MrFusion

Yes I used ceramic bulb sockets, the correct wire gauges (i found the prefab Chinese harness to be a bit light on the wire gauges), relay sockets with legit 12 gauge power wires and HVAC grade connectors. All connections soldered and shrink wrapped with the sealant filled shrink tube.

The hardest part to find was the 12 gauge wired relay socket. Most were barely 16 gauge.