Are you sure it is leaking from the governor shaft? and not from a bit higher up from under the connecting pipe (figure #366) of the drawing?
It is detailed in the last of the 4 pictures. Diesel fuel is deceiving and can appear to come from places that are totally unrelated.

When mine started to leak it gave no warning, I one day kept smelling diesel fuel through my air vents, I pulled in my drive and left a good-sized puddle on the ground.

When mine was leaking it was running of the front of the pump and down the side of the block. I thought I had a major disaster on my hands.
But it was the easiest repair on the pump.

I cleaned it off with compressed air and watched it using a powerful flashlight, then I had someone start the engine and I found it came from the bottom of the banjo fitting.

It would be easy to replace the 4 O-rings then check again so you would not have to tear down the pump unnecessarily.

Not sure how much the parts will cost you, the tech at the injection shop gave them to me for free.

I hope yours will be an easy fix.
Keep us informed.
Jim

 

Nothing is ever easy in my world!

The Engine is absoluteley immaculate clean...NO GRIME...so the leak is clearly visable...but only to the extent that it can be seen (Huh?) After very carefull inspection...with the truck parked at a steep lerch to the left...the leak is DEFINATELY comming from the Govornor Shaft...I can see tiny bubbles forming as the fuel escapes from behind the washer of the retaining nut associated with the govornor shaft. The banjo side stayed dry.

My local fuel shop has the O-ring kit that is noted throughout this thread...$19.00. The tech there says the pump must be removed...and that there are some wieghts of some sort within the pump, that will fall if the Govornor shaft is not positioned on it's end...shaft downward, upon removal of the shaft...even then, there are no guarantees that the weights won't fall anyway.

I'm off to get the kit...80 miles round trip...us Oregon hill folk often have to go a ways to get stuff...I have no garage, it's freezin cold, and raining...wish me luck.

You guys probly already know this trick...but i'll share for those who don't:

at the used car dealer, the engines always look so detailed...clean, shiny, and the rubber even looks new! What's the trick?, I asked...finally someone revealed the secret....Pressure wash the engine and under carriage (careful of the water/fuel sensor getting too wet...and of course on your gasoline dawgs, bag the distributor) anyway...the pressure wash and then about a half can of W-D40 all over everything sparayed on wet and drippy will make your old drty motor shine, protect it from moisture, the rubber will all look spactacular and the next time you clean the motor the dirt will just slde right off...I do this to all my rigs and asside from the occasional wet distributor, it werks great! and that's my contribution for the day.

take care...and thanx for the help

 

I have not had this part out but is the O-ring on the shaft inside the bore or is it just around the shaft behind the washer and nut.
If it is then could you not remove the nut and washer then replace the O-ring without disturbing the settings?
Jim

 

I wish i could answer that question...all I have to go by is the exploded view that you had posted for Bearkiller, and I have scoured the web for that...this is the only place it existes, I suggest everyone watching this thread to save that pump schematic....other than that, I am learning...I purchased this 1993 W-250 x-cab in July...it's my first diesel, however, i had specifically targetted the 1993 rigs as my truck of choice...it took nearly three years to find one...

sorry, got off track, anyway, never owned a diesel and i don't know much about 'em 'cept what I have learned in search of solutions for this leak...I have learned much.

Seems to me the best approach is the hard one...remove the pump, replace all the seals and such that are user accessable, go through the whole timing, bleeding and torqing sequences in my trusty hanes manual...and of course those wonderful pictures you posted, and then see what happens. its $18.00 and a considerable amount of time...if I fail...it's probly new pump time anyway.

Hasta

K. Sleight

 

Jim,

I guess this is a little old now, but I wanted to thank you for the schematic and part numbers anyway!! BIG thanks!

THe shaft for the governor has an o-ring that seals it to the bore that surrounds it, so you have to take it out to replace the o-ring . . . nothing like match marks and counting turns . . .

Thanks again!

 

Jim Lane, I am truly in awe.

dumptruck200

 

Wow Jim that's the most informative and relevant post I've ever seen in these forums! I too am copy'n'pasting as it's exactly my hardware, ....many thanks, ....Dennis

 

Hey B-K, ...mine's a Getrag G-360 as well, ....was noisy in 4th gear, replaced it with a rebuilt also noisy in 4th, but blew a seal out the rear and fried it. The shop made up another for me on warranty that is so new-acting it's almost rubbery on the shifts. Suspect the first was a "paint-can rebuild" if you get my drift, ...sorry about straying off topic, but that was handled nicely by JimLane's post, ....cheers

 

THANKS JIM FOR THE GREAT INFORMATION, I think I have the same issue on the 1989 pre intercooler pump, I hope it is this and not the governor shaft seal. Many thanks for the pictures and exploded diagrams!!!!