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Injector-pump Drip Drip Drip Drip
The injector-pump on the wife's 91 InterCooled Auto has suddenly started leaking. I can't see exactly where the leak is. It seems to be toward the front, close to the timing cover of the engine. What is the most likely suspect and how do I determine what is leaking?? On EDIT: After careful observation, the fuel is forming just above the left-most pump bolt, seeming to come from under a very skinny line that goes closely over the top of a copper/brass looking hex-head business. I can't really tell if it is leaking at the hex-head affair, just under that tiny line, or if the line itself has a leak, or if it is originating from under the odd-shaped two-flat screw that holds the upper terminus of the little line. What is the most likely source of this leak?? Thanks. |
likely culprit is the o-ring inside the cover on the back side of the pump. (opposite the KSB). The way to determine this for sure is to clean it off real well and run it and see where it starts to seep. May take a lot of BrakeKleen or ether to accomplish your goal.
DP |
dpuckett, Please read my edit that I was doing while you were answering my post. Does this location sound like what you are talking about?? What is KSB?? Is it the thing with a wire hooked to it, sort of under the throttle?? Thanks. |
It's probably up at the weird screw. I think the same thing just happened to Jim Lane.
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Okay, After more examination, I believe my leak is the same leak that is in this thread: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=124178 Is this a problem that I can fix; or, is something under that funny two-flat nut going to fly out of there and land in the gravel, never to be seen again?? What am I going to use to get off that odd nut?? What parts am I going to need to make this repair?? Many thanks. |
Beats me, never had it off. If I was home I'd go out to the garage and investigate on my junk pump. :(
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Back when I worked at Dodge, back when the 1st gens were still under warranty, I saw a couple of pumps with a leak at that line you describe. At that time, those parts weren't serviced seperately (by Dodge) and we replaced the pumps. Hopefully times have changed and those parts are available, probably not from Dodge, but from Cummins or a diesel shop. If you can remove that funny banjo bolt, maybe you can match up an o-ring, copper washer, or whatever seals it. If I got in a truck today with that problem, I'd yank it apart and do some "exploring".
Good luck. |
An exploded drawing and a parts list/numbers for the pump would be just wonderful. If I knew what I was looking for, the Case equipment dealer might just have what I need, as many Case units have this same engine and pump. Thanks. |
How to repair external fuel leak.
My pump started leaking for no reason, it just started dripping down the front of my engine and I was smelling diesel fuel through my air vents.[yuk]
The part you are looking at is a CONTROL VALVE looking at the side of the pump it is on the top left next to the timing case. To remove it I used a 10mm crows foot wrench and an extension. http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...J/DSC08757.jpg The control valve is sealed by 4 O-rings, 3 of them are the same size and the one on the end is smaller. I got them from my Bosch dealer, he gave them to me for FREE… http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...J/DSC09141.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...J/DSC08803.jpg This is what the entire unit looks like; the small flare nut on the end takes an 8mm wrench to remove it from the KSB valve housing. http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...J/DSC08764.jpg This is a copy for the breakdown on our Bosch VE Pump it is # 0 460 426 114 This the part number they will ask you when you ask for parts. These are the parts you will need; they are on Page #4 of the parts list. #133 O-ring you will need-1 #134 O-ring you will need-3 #135 Control Valve (you don't need this, for reference only) http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...eakdown1-1.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...breakdown2.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...breakdown3.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...breakdown4.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...breakdown5.jpg Maybe these should be saved for future reference. I hope this will be of some help. Later Jim |
Awesome work, Jim! :o That one went right in the sticky. :)
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Dang Jim, is your middle initial "T" for thorough??!!!
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So Dave.The o-ring you said I need is 417?Can I buy this online?
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Seems like a lot of new leaks, think ulsd is causing the problems like last time they changed.
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[director] MR JimLane, [guitar] You have saved the day.[roll] [coffee] Now, I can proceed with the confidence that a dumbie, like me, can accomplish the task at hand. Your efforts are greatly appreciated. Many thanks. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- If I can't find a Bosch dealer close, can I match the O-rings up at the parts store?? I have a NITRILE O-ring assortment; if I can't get the Bosch, will these work?? Thanks. |
Originally Posted by BearKiller
(Post 1219491)
[director] MR JimLane, [guitar] You have saved the day.[roll] [coffee] Now, I can proceed with the confidence that a dumbie, like me, can accomplish the task at hand. Your efforts are greatly appreciated. Many thanks. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- If I can't find a Bosch dealer close, can I match the O-rings up at the parts store?? I have a NITRILE O-ring assortment; if I can't get the Bosch, will these work?? Thanks. Before I installed the O-rings I had an idea to try and match them up with the ones in my O-ring kit and I found they were both in it. I have them in my National Nitrile O-ring Kit and they were even in my cheapie METRIC Nitrile O-ring Kit from Harbor Freight. That one gave the size as: Qty-3 #110 P10A 2.4 W X 9.8 ID Qty-1 #011 P8 1.9 W X 7.8 ID And remember these are METRIC not SAE This has got to be the simplest repair to the VE pump I have done yet. With the 10mm crows foot wrench it shouldn’t take more than 10 minuets that is unless you dropped the parts down the engine. When you reinstall this valve be cautious when you tighten it down, once the o-rings pull through the fittings and it gets to the sealing point it goes from loose to tight in about 10*. With a 10” wrench just give it a good SNUG pull.. The seal is by the o-rings and not by the tightness of the bolt. I was a bit hesitant on removing the control valve at first too expecting some springs to come flying out, but I can assure you that you are safe to just unscrew it but be careful when you pull it up from the banjo which you do NOT need to remove to perform this repair. I ask the tech at the repair shop what they use for assembly lube on the pumps when they rebuild them expecting for him to say some exotic imported lubricant from Bosch but he said they use STP Oil Treatment on all the rubber parts. Later Jim |
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